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Posted

I posted this on another thread, but I feel like it's long lost and I need some answers... so here is a new one!

 

I'll admit, I'm totally knew to this and I've never replaced spark plugs. As I understand it, it's a pretty simple/basic task, but just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

 

I just ordered some Tempest UREM37BY's to replace my old Champion REM40E's. What do I need to know about putting these guys in? It's a O-360-A1A in my M20C. I'm going to buy a new socket that will fit the spark plug, because I don't think I currently have one deep enough that will reach over the entire spark plug. What kind of torque setting should I use? Is the gap set properly out of the box, or will I need to adjust that? Is there a preferred gap to use within the recommended range?  I'm also thinking that buying a new set of copper gaskets would be smart... does anyone know if 18mm is the correct size? Can I use engine oil to lube the threads before installing? 

 

Any tips appreciated. Sorry for all the questions, just want to get my order from AircraftSpruce squared away!

Posted

35 Foot Lbs on the torque.  They should be gaped properly from new.  They should come with new gaskets, mine did from Spruce last week.  I use a light coating of anti-seize on the threads, careful to keep it back from the tip a thread or so.

 

Make sure you use two wrenches taking the wires off, a 7/16's on the base to keep the wire from twisting and stressing the wire while you are loosening the main nut, usually 3/4".  I would buy the spark plug "caddy" while you are at it.  If and when you take them out to service and clean, you can rotate the caddy 180 degrees for re-installation and that will rotate the plugs both upper and lower, as well as to different mags for better wear on the electrodes.

 

Finally, don't use the inside of the engine compartment to hold any tools or other items.  Get a table close by and make it a habit of never laying stuff on the engine.  It is way TOO EASY to forget something in there and recowl, only to find that item the next time you remove the cowl.  Don't ask how I know that.

Posted

Check the gap before install, better safe than sorry, right? It's not at all like gapping car plugs. Don't go too small . . . Make the small wire fit, and the large wire not fit, on both sides of the electrode.

I use the copper-based anti seize on my plugs.

Yes, use new copper gaskets every time, but I don't know the size off hand.

Posted

Here is the anti-seize I use:

3975646f03f1d860f31539cd36c1504b.jpg

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Same stuff I use.  When you get less than half a can and it starts getting thick, I add some motor oil.

Posted

I would stay away from just using oil. Here is a link for the copper based anti-seize. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=sr_1_1/185-1747304-1001350?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429501902&sr=1-1&keywords=permatex+copper+anti-seize

I have used the blend stuff for 24 years and never had an issue.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Champion sells the correct anti-sieze.  If you don't have any Spruce sells it.  I wouldn't change what has works for 24 years, only if i was starting fresh.  New washers can be bought in packs of 100, almost a lifetimes worth.  Also, if your really a CB, the old ones can be re-annealed if you heat them lightly with a propane torch.  Nice explanation Tom.

-Matt

  • Like 2
Posted

put them on a piece of safety wire.  use propane torch to heat up till you see a bit of color change, then quench.  at a buck a piece that is two gallons of gas.   CB club application submitted

  • Like 1
Posted

Re annealing copper gaskets vs. buying new...

The engineer's conundrum. The challenge of being a CB engineer...

Using the technical skills of metallurgy and saving $4 (an over estimate) is inviting!

Or spend the $4 and get some new gaskets...

Either way, using the old gaskets without proper re-annealing will get you tossed from both the engineering team and the CB club...

Every new owner or engineer needs a tube of anti-seize and a tube of silicone grease. Available from most lab classes on campus. They both last a lifetime. Both work on Corvettes as well as firebirds. Both can ruin a good leather jacket upon contact...

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

put them on a piece of safety wire.  use propane torch to heat up till you see a bit of color change, then quench.  at a buck a piece that is two gallons of gas.   CB club application submitted

 

I too am a CB. I just barely pinch the edges of them in my table vice.  I can do several at a time with my torch.  I wait until I have uniform color change, them bump the vice enough to release them into an old coffee can that is devoted to this purpose.

 

They are also a prefect substitute for the oil drain crush washer on water cooled Porsche flat 6 engines (which means they will likely work on many cars).  

Posted

put them on a piece of safety wire.  use propane torch to heat up till you see a bit of color change, then quench.  at a buck a piece that is two gallons of gas.   CB club application submitted

A buck a piece!? At that price, I would anneal them myself, too.

Aircraft Spruce sells them for 35 cents each. For less than $3, I'll probably just keep buying them once a year.

Posted

An engineer and a blacksmith would not get along.  Since a fair amount of tempering is done by visual cues.   And do you use water or oil for quenching.  I would rather bush hog grass with a blade drawn by a blacksmith than a engineer.  The drawn blade will last longer.

Posted

Sure the listed price is .35 cents.  But is that really the TCO?   Computer amortization, shipping, internet connection, waiting time to install, Inventory carrying cost, warehouse cost. lack of shelf space for beer inventory. Did you do quality control checks on the batch?  Being a management consultant, I could easily get the cost per 1 over a dollar each.

  • Like 2
Posted

A buck a piece!? At that price, I would anneal them myself, too.

Aircraft Spruce sells them for 35 cents each. For less than $3, I'll probably just keep buying them once a year.

 

I suspect it will be more about convenience for me.   If I have time to work on the plane, but didn't order the gaskets in time, I will be annealing them.  If I did a better job of planning, I'll be using new.

Posted

They do now...

a strong team has engineers, machinists and blacksmiths working together...

Cats and dogs working together. What is this world coming to?

Next thing you know a guy with a Bonanza is at the Mooney lunch table, and he offers good advice.

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

Now that's funny!!

Man the price must have come down. Last time I bougt gaskets I think I remember paying .75¢.

-Matt

Well,,,,

 

I always like these money mistakes...

That amount is 3/4 of 1 cent! :P

Posted

Was taught by an old time "A&E" to use a/c engine oil on spark plug threads.

Have been doing it for 50 years with no problems what so ever.

Spark plug manufacturers do however recommend specific anti-seize.

Posted

T556 thread grsphite compound.I find it easy to work with. Spreads nice and stays put without running! (As they should!!)

As for gaskets at 35¢ a piece why go through the trouble annealing used crushed ones?

Posted

but bonus points for the knowing the keyboard shortcut for getting a cents sign to appear.

Hold down $ sign on iOS !!

Bonus points????!!!!

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