DanM20C

I always though Bryan was a little slow. Cheers, Dan

That makes perfect sense. Thanks Paul. Cheers, Dan

Do you know what reason they choose to include the new drains in the SB? I know there are a lot of variants of the 360 (both NA and Turbo) that never had a primer diverter valve in the first place, yet used the old drain. Not a big deal, I'm just curious if there is a known problem. Cheers, Dan

I'm trying to figure out when they made the switch over to the newer style. Do you think yours were original? Dan

It took me a month to get my fuel line and the cylinder drains. They just showed up yesterday. Did you already have the correct cylinder drains? Cheers, Dan

It might be easier to look at if you remove the CHT from the top graph, add MP to the bottom, and then zoom in a bit to see the transition to lop and some of the cruise. The Savvy tools awesome! Cheers, Dan

It my experience with intercooled 231’s, 28-29” at 10gph will be very close to peak, probably just favoring the lean side. Have you tried increasing MP to the 32-34” range while adjusting the mixture to keep it at 10gph? I typically fly at 32-33” and 10gph, TIT is less than 1530. Accurately finding gami spread in a 231 isn’t easy. Any movement of the red knob changes FF and MP. So one has to adjust the throttle Simultaneously to maintain MP, it’s like drawing a straight 45 degree line on an etch-a-sketch. I use the big pull method when setting up for cruise, MP will drop 3-5”. I then I use throttle to bring the MP back up to where I want it and fine tune the mixture to get my desired FF. I second Anthony’s recommendation for reading @jlunseth‘s posts, lots of great info. I operate very similar to him with the exception I only operate 65% or less when lop. Once lop you can think of the mixture and throttle to be swapped. Lop at 29” -10gph or lop at 34” -10gph, both are about 65% but the first is close to peak and the latter is much further lop. Cheers, Dan

Generally it is just referred to as a momentary switch. I'm glad the SB retains the switch, it's nice having a momentary switch for priming ops. I never had any problems priming with just the fuel pump with my original drains. I don't think ones with a standpipe are an operational necessity. But SB compliance is all or nothing, so I'm attempting to replace mine. Apparently the SB obliterated stock on the newer ones. I was only able to find 3 so far. Cheers, Dan

You are correct, the mags are pressurized off the intake. The "pops" I experienced were not unlike a misfire. I'm most certain I would have carried on if I didn't have the indication that #4 was cold (egt/cht). You never mentioned if you have a fixed or Meryln wastegate? Cheers, Dan

I'm thinking it is fuel related. It doesn't sound like a mag or wastegate issue. You either have a fixed wastegate or a Merlin. It it's fixed nothing is going to change at alt. If you have a Merlin it will be fully closed well before FL200. I can't imagine a failure note that would cause them to cycle from close/open/close quickly. Generally Merlin's suffer a slow silent death and then just get stuck. Then they behave the same way a fixed wastegate does. I had a mag pressurization problem once too and the engine started missing above 16K. It ran rough but didn't shut down and come alive. I would have your mechanic take a close look at the fuel system, specifically the engine driven fuel pump. I completely agree with @gsxrpilot about having an engine monitor paired with a TSIO-360. They help run the engine safely ROP or LOP and they offer so much in the way of trouble shooting it's amazing. Plus my engine monitor may have helped me get to an airport when my #4 cylinder decided to come apart. Without the engine monitor I would have just felt/heard a few little pops and I may have continued on as the engine was running smooth. But I immediately diverted because I could see #4 had gone cold. A few min later the cylinder head broke loose, breaking the intake and fuel line. The intake nuts, washers, and other bits of metal were sucked into the intake and made a mess of everything. An engine monitor is a must have for me. Cheers, Dan

Unfortunately we can't perform 1/2 a SB. I just bit the bullet and ordered 6 of those gold plated fittings. After the SB has been performed the primer switch is now just a momentary hi boost switch. If anything starting should be a little easier/smoother than before with the primer. When using just the primer (per POH) most owners were used getting a little stumble after it fired and would use the primer until the engine ran smooth. The stumbling/poor running was do to two things. Poor cylinder distribution of the fuel/air mix and the fuel lines down stream of the diverter were not getting primed. It would take a second or two for the mechanical pump to prime the system after the diverter redirected the supply back to fuel manifold. When running the hi boost to prime (primer switch after the SB) we are priming all the fuel lines as well as all the cylinders. The only downside l I can see is it will be easier to flood the engine than with the original primer system. But if the primer isn't operated more than 3-5 secs I think flooding it is unlikely. Cheers, Dan

I think they allow a certain amount of fuel to gather in the port for priming. I'm assuming that is the point of them. But I routinely started with just boost pump and never had any start issues with the original drains. Cheers, Dan

Does anyone know the reason for the change in cylinder drains? I'm finishing up an LB rebuild and I need to buy the different style drains. $50 each, I'm getting tired of sending Continental my money. Cheers, Dan

Jim, you can change the battery of the Sensorcon also. Remove the 4 screws holding the case together, it uses a cr123a. Cheers, Dan

If you can get a repeatable rise when turning the heat on vs off you can be confident of an exhaust leak someplace. I have had many reports of similar small rises (less than 10ppm) that proved to catch issues early. That has been the great part of these high resolution monitors. They have found many problems well before they were dangerous. 5-10ppm is not dangerous from a CO poisoning perspective but it may be an early sign of exhaust trouble. Like I said, if it is repeatable I would take a close look at the exhaust/heating system at your earliest convenience. cheers, Dan