philiplane

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About philiplane

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Lauderdale KFXE
  • Model
    M20M

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  1. If the magneto to engine timing has been changed 2 degrees, look in the logs to see if it was adjusted previously. When external timing drifts more than 4 degrees, the mag should be opened up to re-set the E-gap, because the points are wearing and retarding the timing. This makes the mag less efficient and will cause EGT variations. The problem with the Bravo installation is that you can only have Slick mags, which are basically high maintenance low performance junk. They need to be opened every 500 hours, or less, to insure optimal performance. I do the 500 hour inspections on everything I service, and Slicks rarely get past 500 hours without needing some repairs.
  2. Let's say you actually lose 5 knots with a/c. On a max range trip of 800 NM, you're talking 175 versus 180 knots. To put it in perspective, it's 15 minutes. Go flying on a hot day without a/c, and your passengers will hate the 15 minutes they spent sweating before takeoff, and the 10 minutes they spend sweating again, taxiing in after landing. What part of the trip will they remember? The misery, of course. Want your wife to appreciate the plane and go flying with you? And approve $$$$ upgrades? Having a/c will facilitate all of that. The best buy for a retrofit is the Arctic Air Real A/C for about $4700. No scoop, no drag either.
  3. Read the fine wire reports from RAM Aircraft. Documented fuel savings and performance increase with fine wire plugs because they enable deeper LOP ops. Fine wire plug electrodes are far more open than massive plugs. That's the difference.
  4. There is no shortcut. You have to do Continental SID 97-3F to accurately set up the injection system.
  5. what brand/type spark plugs do you have? How old are they?
  6. To run well LOP you need a well maintained ignition system (Bendix mags) with fine wire Tempest spark plugs. Don't bother trying to go further LOP if you have Slick mags and Champion plugs, (either fine wire or massive electrodes), without confirming the mags are perfect, and installing better spark plugs.
  7. In the southeast US along the coast, there are many times per year when GPS isn't available, sometimes for days. Due to military operations around Savannah, or off the Space Coast of Florida, so you need VOR navigation, or the ADF. Not to mention solar flare activity that degrades it with no warning. I'm hanging onto some old school nav devices alongside my wiz-bang state of the art Garmin goodies because I've found I've needed it more than once a year.
  8. I found that the later radar capable Garmin MX20's have better cooling than their Apollo predecessors. So the screens don't overheat and go bad like the older & non-radar ones. Garmin had changed a few other components in the dimming circuit when they went to a rocker style switch, replacing the rotary dimmer knob. If anyone is having a problem with their older MX20, and doesn't want to break the bank replacing it, there is one on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133289101121?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I had done this swap about a year ago and it cost me a lot more than this one is going for so far.
  9. The Gill 7243-14 is a good replacement for the G243. I use both Gill wet/sealed and Concorde sealed batteries in customer planes.I've put is maybe a dozen of the new style sealed Gill batteries so far, with no problems. They have the highest cranking power available so far. The Concorde RG24-15M sealed batteries have great starting power, but still generally die without warning between 24 and 48 months in the South Florida heat. With or without battery tenders. Heat kills batteries.
  10. Mooney optimized the CG to get the best speed. Most Bravos are flown with forward CG, which costs 5-7 knots. Put your seat further back in cruise, stow any baggage items as far back as possible, and consider using 50 pounds of ballast in the baggage to move the CG aft. This plane, like most, likes the CG about 75 percent aft in the envelope. Changing out starters and alternators to lighter weight parts can help move the CG back. TKS equipped planes have very little speed penalty. You have more drag if your rigging is off slightly. Fairings and inspection panels can be a big source of drag, along with poorly installed antennas. Advanced ignition timing will cause higher CHT. Make sure it is spot on. Some folks think advancing the timing helps with HP. It does to some extent, but running 25 BTDC instead of 20 BTDC will raise the CHT noticeably. So you get extra HP, but then you waste it by having to open the cowl flaps and adding drag. Loose parts in the flap control system will cause the rattling.
  11. If they can't test the ASI during a static system check, they don't know what they are doing and will probably damage your instruments. This is a rookie mistake and is supposed to be covered in their Repair Station Manual training program. They can accidentally run the ASI backwards which usually damages it beyond repair.
  12. AoA in turns is perfect. Yours will be off if the mounting is not level to the longitudinal axis, and pointed straight ahead. If you have it in a canted panel, it will have errors in the turn like any other AHRS that is not precisely mounted and calibrated to straight and level while on jacks.
  13. I've got about 80 flight hours on the AV20S in my Aztec. Works great. The only issue is a slightly higher than actual TAS reading, and they are working on a software fix for that. The AoA works fine in my experience. I calibrated it without flaps, and it will show the stall AoA in flight accurately, meaning you get the audio alert before you actually exceed the critical AoA. Upon landing with half or full flaps, you will be in the yellow warning band, and get the red AoA alert if you haul the nose up a bit upon touchdown.
  14. I don't have the parts manual in front of me, but most Lycomings use a thin ring type seal on all turbo exhaust couplings. 75845 is the part number for a 2.25 OD V band coupling gasket, for example. If the leak is at the exhaust to the turbo ( a four bolt flange type fitting) then there is no gasket, but the surfaces are machined flat and should have essentially no leakage.
  15. Here we go again. The MT 3 blade prop I had resealed four months ago is leaking again. A not quite four year old prop with less than 500 hours on it. The only trouble-free MT props I've seen so far are the 5 blades I installed on a Cheyenne 400LS.