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larryb last won the day on December 20 2015

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About larryb

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    Northern CA
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    M20K Encore

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  1. It is much cheaper to get the V3-1 switch along with the JV-5 roller actuator. This is listed as an alternate in the IPC to the V3L-3 switch. limit switch Honeywell V3-1 roller lever: Honeywell JV-5
  2. These are all features that I wish Garmin would add to the GTN box. With the addition of a couple GPIO (General Purpose IO) pins tied to gear position and flap position these warnings would be trivial to add. The GTN already knows when you are lined up on a runway ready for takeoff. It could annunciate "Check flap position" if you taxi out on the runway with flaps not in the takeoff position. The GTN knows when you landing at an airport. It knows you height above ground. It could annunciate "Check gear" if your gear is still up and you are on final approach to an airport and < 500' AGL. Same for flap position.
  3. Today after fueling the plane the Shaw 531 fuel cap lever was very stiff on one side. I found I am missing the washer under the lever. Spruce has something, but it looks out of stock. For now, after lube, it's working OK, but of course I need to get a new washer. It looks like a standard washer with a wedge cut out. No idea how long it's been this way, could have been before I bought the plane. My MSC has replaced the o-rings on the cap, they should have noticed the missing washer, but... The stiffness came on suddenly, it was fine just 2 days ago. Options of course are finding the proper Shaw part. Or measuring the washer on the good side, finding a generic replacement and cutting out the wedge. Or a used one on ebay, just for the washer, I see several. If anybody has dealt with this and has insight, I would appreciate it. Larry
  4. Today I did my 25 hour oil change and engine inspection. I found: Missing screw on heater exhaust shroud. EGT wire chafing against heater exhaust shroud. Missing washer under the lever on one Shaw fuel cap. To be honest, this was found because the lever was stiff, not due to inspection. And the biggie, very very loose clamps on #1 cylinder induction tube rubber coupler, a significant intake leak for sure.
  5. It takes several days for the oil to drain back into the sump. So checking level immediately after flight will show a quart lower than the reading just before the flight. High oil temperature will lead to lower pressure due to the oil thinning. That said I do think there is a problem. I’d start with the high temp reading.
  6. The one piece of advice I have is LOOK. Visually inspect everything. Spend some time on this. Look and poke at everything. In my pre-buy and annuals, there things that have been over-looked that I have seen. For example, the turbo oil line touching the hot side of the turbo. Or the oil breather line wearing a hole in my intake manifold. Wires chafing against the engine mount. It is handy to have a collection of the commonly used bolts/screws/nuts/washers from Aircraft Spruce handy so you don't have to make an order each time you find a missing screw. It's also a good idea to spray the rod ends with tri-flow more often than the annual inspection.
  7. The pictures in this thread show manufacturing defects. The relays are supposed to be vented, but the vent nib has not been broken off after assembly. This can reduce the contact life 20 to 50% according to this app note.
  8. Perry: Can you get us a picture of the failed module? I'd like to see what components are used now. I have TKS and have noticed fluid droplets behind the belly pan after a usage. I have not attributed any failures to the fluid however. Thanks, Larry
  9. Perry: Last summer I made a post where I discuss design flaws in the flap relay board. This is the board in my 1997 Encore. I have no knowledge of the design in your airplane. Assuming a similar design I believe the recommendations I made regarding replacing the coil diodes with a TVS and adding a TVS across the motor leads would help. It really is a marginal design. They used a general purpose relay to switch a motor load. They used an improper design for coil suppression. They used nothing to suppress the spike from the motor. And finally, in my case at least, they failed to remove the relay vent nib. The relay used is designed to be vented but is initially sealed until soldering and cleaning is complete. Do you have any detailed photos of the relay board in your airplane? Detailed enough to see part numbers of the relays for example? Larry
  10. I bought a laminator and supplies from amazon. And a paper cutter. It is surprising how handy it is.
  11. Plan a day or two. Check every single function and feature. Pay special attention to audio levels and sidetone levels.
  12. What’s up with that hose glued to the intake tube? My J didn’t have anything like that.
  13. I have a built in tank and still use it with the O2D2. A fill lasts a year. If my plane did not come with a built in tank I would just use a portable tank. Just get the O2D2 with two 24 cuft tanks. Each tank will give you 24 hours flying time for two people. A spare tank means you won’t run out on a trip and won’t need to worry about finding somebody to fill it. Even with a portable tank you can do a clean install with tubes running behind panels and the O2D2 mounted in a convenient place.
  14. It is easy to fix the cable. Disconnect both ends, pull the old one out, push the new one in with a few squirts of tri flow. Most of the time is spent in removing the pilot seat and sidewall. You could probably just lube the old cable but if going to the trouble of doing this I’d just replace the inner core with new.
  15. I use 11 psi per hour for two people at 15,000 feet with a O2D2. I agree you have a leak that needs fixing.