larryb

I have also instrumented my engine with RH and temperature measurements. My results duplicate the referenced article. As temperature is increased RH decreases. Using a Reiff heater, blanket over the cowl, and a thermostat I have my setup maintain a constant 90 degrees F year round. The oil fill cap is left off when the airplane is home and inside. This is in a relatively dry California climate. I maintain around 10% RH when the plane is in Truckee and around 30% when the plane is in San Jose. In a humid environment this might not work as well and active dehumidification might be required. Actu

Yup, I noticed a basemap issue last flight. I guess I'll go through the process. But, does the worldwide basemap even matter if you have a current local nav db?

Glen: Is the beeping continuous, or does it stop after a few beeps? If the beeping is continuous, I agree it is likely the gear warning system. As others mentioned, this activates when the gear is up and MP is reduced to near idle. The purpose is to prevent gear up landing. If this is what you are hearing, I would recommend you change your procedure and descend at no lower than 15" MP. Lower than this and the prop is driving the engine, and that is not terribly good for the engine. Only reduce to idle when necessarily for landing. And at that point, your gear should be down an

So just a few days ago I start the airplane. What is that beeping? Oh, it’s the CO2 monitor. Never seen that before, readings around 50. That’s not good. Then I recall that the wind is a direct tailwind, 10G20. And the window is open. Maybe that’s it. I taxi into the lane and turn 90 degrees to the wind. Reading drops to 0. Relief. I decide the airplane is fine and depart but keep an extra sharp eye on the monitor. All good, it was the tailwind. First time for that experience in probably 800 Mooney hours with a monitor.

It is always windy and bumpy down there. On our way to Flag it was smooth at 17.5k and the bumps started descending through 13k. Very rough ride from there all the way to touchdown. Seems like it is always like that when we go there. This was around 11:00 am. My advice for flying in the desert Southwest is to stay high as much as possible.

Just flew back from a 2 week rafting trip in the canyon. Flagstaff to Truckee.

So in my aircraft the battery is not in a box. It has a manifold connection for the vent hose directly on the battery. What this means is that the battery minder wire does not run next to the main battery wire and is not attached to it. That said, and after reading this thread, I do like the idea of attaching the wire to the solenoid instead. With fewer wires attached to the battery fewer wires will be disturbed when the battery is changed. I may just have mine changed. It would only take a few minutes and is not a big deal.

My install is directly to the battery. However it does not use the provided hardware. It uses standard aircraft grade tefzel wire, ring terminals, and an inline fuse holder just like the others in the battery area. Terminated with a molex connector behind the aux power port.

What kind of engine? If the Lyc IO360 connect the quick drain when you return home from a flight. A day or two later go out and finish the job. All the oil will have drained from the filter and it will only spill a couple drops. Waiting a day after the flight is the key point here. But you said you waited two days, so I really don’t know went wrong. The Continental with the filter mounted under the motor is a little harder. I fashion a bib out of a plastic garbage bag to direct the oil into a bucket.

I also generally run 25” 9.5 gph in my encore. I used to run 28” 10.5 gph but the plane was not as happy, I get a slight vibration at that setting. If I want to go faster I do 28” 14.5 gph rop. That is 20 Ktas faster than the 9.5 gph setting but significantly less mpg.

The cylinder pressure they are talking about is peak pressure. You don’t want the peak too high. Think of a sharp spike vs a gradual push. In the red box you get more of a spike. Outside the box more of a push.

One should make good decisions based on their experience, skill, and capabilities. I flew a week ago from Truckee to San Jose VFR. It was legal VFR but would have never done the trip without being rated and current.

First detail, your trim switch is actually a switch circuit breaker combo. So the fact that it does not stay on is because the breaker part is tripping. Second point, it is not necessarily a $5K bill every time a king autopilot glitches. I had a roll servo go out. It was sent to Mid Continent for a $600 repair. My shop was another $400. The bottom line is you need a competent technician to trouble shoot the system. It could be anything and other people’s experience with similar symptoms don’t matter much. An incompetent technician won’t do the debug and will send all of your components out

I frequently experience this in my encore. One time the downdraft was so severe that IAS dropped to only 90 kts and I had to go to full power for 5 minutes to maintain altitude.

You have an Acclaim. Even if you are going to get a twin, why trade down? Save a few $? There is a lot of risk in buying a “new to you” airplane. And then you plan to spend a lot of $$$ improving the Bravo you are going to buy? It seems like a lot of hassle and risk to me. I suggest skipping the piston twin and go straight for the TBM.