larryb

This is all I have at the moment. What is not shown is where the casing is clamped to the bracket. But it does show how the inner wire is connected.

In this application, the heat shield spans a slip joint. Therefore one must tighten one clamp securely and leave the other clamp slightly loose. I have already added the adhesive backed Thermo-Tek barrier to my cowl in front of the exhaust because I was not confident in the Mooney heat shield. I am not sure if this is sufficient if there were no Mooney heat shield though. I am also curious if other K models don't even have a heat shield. It looks like the shield was added via SB in 1987. Larry

Aside from the legality of it all, anybody see an issue with using something like this instead of the expensive and crack-prone metal heat shield? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BAOW4KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Resurrecting an old thread here. This has been a constant problem for me. The bracket was found cracked at the pre-buy when I bought 15 months ago. It was replaced by new at that time. A year later at the first annual it was cracked again, and my shop welded it. And I found it is cracked again today. Does anybody have a good solution for this? Has anybody actually gone the owner-produced route with a more robust material?

Thank you! It doesn’t match the IPC pic but it does look like what is on the plane.

This is item 17 in the Mooney M20K IPC, shown below. It rests against the lower cowl. Mine are a bit deteriorated. 590026-501 BUMPER ASSEMBLY I'm looking for a convenient source. I know I can call my MSC, but I was hoping to just conveniently order online from a place like Spruce. Google hasn't helped me with this part number.

Digital LED display drivers multiplex the segments. That means they are switched on and off faster than the eye can see. But a digital camera does see this. So the display in this picture probably looks fine in person while the picture looks like it is failing.

Engine model? Edit. Never mind. I didn’t notice this was the bravo sub forum.

I visited Texas this year. I found it useful to displace the 130 degree air with nice cool 100 degree air.

I had the same thing happen in my Lycoming IO360. Fortunately it was on the takeoff roll. Never left the ground. I also never figured out why. I could not reliably determine the history of the cylinder and how many total hours it may have had. I replaced it with new. I will never install a used overhauled cylinder. The one useful thing I did learn was it was probably cracked for a while and leaking exhaust. So now I carefully check the cylinder fins for exhaust residue any time the cowl is off.

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the kool scoop vent. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolscoop.php

The reason to take out old gauges is because, in some cases, the gauges are not maintainable. In my J the fuel pressure transducer was bad and there were none available. Even if maintainable the cost may be prohibitive. But all this depends on exactly which factory components you have.

I had a similar problem and it was a problem in the roll servo. The motor had become loose in its mounts. A trip for the servo to mid continent for repairs and reinstall by my avionics shop and all is well. Testing the AP on the ground showed an obvious problem in the servo. It sounded sick and moved sluggishly.

In my opinion to be successful in GA ownership you need to develop relationships. You cannot do this alone. You need a trusted A&P and avionics shop. If you install a 530 and then go looking for a shop to bless it things are not going to end well. If you are successful at this folks will go the extra mile to help you out.

In my J it was 40 hours labor at a well known MSC.