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M20F last won the day on March 1 2016

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About M20F

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    1967 M20F-TN

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  1. Main Turbo. https://www.mainturbo.com/
  2. 120MPH and then slower (the actual STC I want to say says climb at 135, I find 120 works fine because I am a rebel). All the RayJay really does is give you what you have at 1000’ at FL190. The challenge is the air is much thinner so heat becomes a problem and you have to pitch down to cool down.
  3. 1967. I have 2 footwell, 2 defroster, and 1 center blower the same as you (though you really can’t blow them all together at 100%). Heating at 9000 feet in Maryland isn’t exactly the same as flight levels from KJMS to 47N in January (or night time in August) riding the 100kt polar vortex. Your heater isn’t awesome it just isn’t having to work very hard. I have spent a lot of years flying back and forth from China. As anyone who has sat on the window seat, a lot of insulation on modern jetliner. TOD the cold soak has the wall a little more the nippy. In a GA plane the cold soak is even more evident. In short you are comparing apples (9000 feet) and oranges (Flight Levels) for heater capability.
  4. Ideal curiosity but why not just move to a GFC-500?
  5. I have a WX-900 and it works great. I fly in/around a lot of terrible weather. It doesn’t paint much because for the most part we don’t fly in weather as bad as we think we do (minus a select few). You also need to use a skin mapper to determine where to mount it so electrical activity on the plane doesn’t interfere with it. Check with a real deal avionics shop.
  6. As others have indicated I wouldn’t put tape over those. I don’t know what the new legal solution to zinc chromate is but would spray that and drop the cushions. I don’t sit in the backseat, let them eat cake.
  7. What I have noticed in mine is anything south of 120 gets hot fast. Especially when I flick the RayJay on. It doesn’t take very much time at say 110 (e.g. not paying attention) to heat it and then it isn’t going to come back down till I level. To me it is simple and cheap things first. Really focus on a 120-125 climb and see what happens. Pitch to 130 see what happens in a climb. These the oil temp gauge (you indicate you have conflict between Garwin and JPI). I have the relocated oil cooler in my F and just plugging some minor gaps in the baffling with RTV helped quite a bit. Good luck!
  8. I have done 170’ish knots in my F, this why they are the best.
  9. At a strong discount I would consider a G. When you look at all the C/E/F’s out there priced competitively the G isn’t worth it unless the deal is good. For this particular one the radios and prop would be of concern. The RayJay isn’t going to do much for the G (it doesn’t do a super huge amount for my F except in limited circumstances, search my posts). If they want to let it go for $25-30K assuming no major issues it is a find. Otherwise I would focus on a C or E (F if you need the room but nobody really does).
  10. I may have missed this sifting through 5 pages but didn’t see a clear answer. Power setting isn’t as relevant as climb speed. What are you climbing at and are you sure your airspeed indicator is reading correct?
  11. Had this issue for years on my Mooney. Mentioned to a guy on a 5hr flight. About 2hrs in he pulled the storm scope breaker, problem solved (probably a more permanent solution to be had but I am cheap). My suggestion would be pull breakers till you find it as my situation was exactly as described.
  12. Part of why GA died was deregulation at the end of the 70’s. If you were a business guy and needed to cover territory to see customers then GA was a solid option. Up until COVID you could fly almost anywhere in the US efficiently and cost effectively thanks to deregulation. COVID has changed that some but it is a blip and not a trend.
  13. It sounds like you have made your decision and you are looking for validation. A Mooney is objectively not the right plane for your mission. Private airplane ownership is however not cost effective or logical. Do what you want, but if the intent is logic then you are picking the wrong plane based upon all the information you have provided. Enjoy!
  14. Mine does ok as well when it is “cold” out at 8000 feet . A little 2” by 4” opening though isn’t going to warm a cabin at -12F (ISA) at FL200 especially as the airframe cold soaks and there is no sun shining on you. Especially given how any 50+ year old plane leaks air like a sieve. Where life is good is twins with a nice Janitrol heater. I flew a C320 at FL280 in the winter, in the jet steam, at -40F, in my shorts, all the vents blowing, and I was still hot....
  15. I do around 10.2 GPH / 100 ROP / 70% power and generally cruise 9-12K seeing 140KTS. FL190 is 160-170KTS depending on ISA and generally run around 11-11.2 GPH as you need the fuel to cool. F190-210 is the happy altitude block. At FL210 the controls get really mushy and you will start losing speed (you lose 100% power give or take around FL180). The other issue I have is the heater set up on a M20F is not really geared for -30F. If the sun is out it is nice. If the sun isn’t out you will be very cold and the windows will frost. If it is winter and you descend the defroster may need a lot of time to clear (or you pull a credit card out and scrape). There really is no additional cost you can overhaul the turbo for $2K I want to say (Main Turbo). Very bullet proof. Like all things it boils to mission. I like traveling and do things like KLZU to KCMX/KJMS/KTOR a couple times a year. I commuted weekly for almost 2yrs 47N to KDPA. I currently have a hanger in KLZU and KDPA and commute back and forth (not so much under COVID). I flew about 300hrs one year for work all up and down East coast. The bottle and the turbo give you some options in terms of speed (100+ knot tail winds) and getting over weather. I rarely use the turbo though for much more then climbing to 9-12K. O2 is a hassle (you can fill your own but still a hassle). You also take a lot more time to climb. When I went to FL250 it took @50 mins at 100-120 IAS so you have an hour where you are going 30 knots slower. You need to make that up with a long leg and a good tail wind. You also will burn 20 gallons getting there. For my mission and the flexibility it was what I wanted. I can always take my turbo off and go back to a stock M20F, but I also bolt it back on. That is not an option to anyone else as the STC no longer exists. I wouldn’t pay a crazy premium for it but it is definitely worth having, just for the STC alone. Hell if I found one and didn’t want the RayJay, I would buy it and put the RayJay in a box. Very little expense to swap back exhaust. Last thing is you really have to watch CHT at altitude. The air is so thin and thus not much cooling. Have to work the flaps and red knob. Boot strapping at altitude is an issue as well. You have to be micro delicate on the controls. Happy to answer any other questions but if your mission is to build time for the lowest possible cost as a first time owner, buy a C150. Cheapest operating cost you will find and you can sell it for close to what you paid for it after putting 1000hrs on it.