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DXB last won the day on May 19 2016

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  1. Mooney down in CT - N53CP

    Really sad. I find flying over much of Connecticut unnerving - nothing but trees over large areas, with few good options in an engine failure. The intact cabin here makes me want speculate on whether it was potentially survivable, since putting it slow and wings level into the tree tops often dissipates enough energy slowly to end far better. It's a '64C per the registration, and as noted by Clarence there's no shoulder belt retrofit visible in the pic.
  2. New drop-in LED bulbs from Whelen

    Thanks- Good to know that converting to the conventional Whelen power supply is a pita - I had considered this. Someone did that for one side on my plane the year before i bought it, and now the vintage '74 Hoskins hardware on the opposite side is dying slowly. You've finalized my decision go with Whelen 650Es at the tips. Luckily my J-bar gear light is just manually dimmed by a mechanical shutter in the housing. The prior owner also put enclosed wingtips on my plane, so I need to get my tail light replaced with the Whelen 500 flasher for the 360 degree light coverage required to remove my old belly light. It's going to be an annoyingly big bill for lighting ($1282 for hardware alone from Spruce), but I will appreciate one less hassle to worry about in the maintenance realm. I'm curious if anyone here has guidance here on appropriate install costs and any install pitfalls with the Whelen LEDs. I'm guessing it's very simple since everything is self contained in the unit?
  3. CHT for Cyl 2 and 4

    Nope - just the beautiful '68 original exhaust - still problem free. I've heard the Powerflow can reduce CHTs anecdotally but want more data points before going down that road.
  4. CHT for Cyl 2 and 4

    FWIW here's a pic of my lower cowl dropped to reseal around the starter and alternator. The big gaps are closed with the riveted new baffle material placed by the A/P. I then meticulously sealed the smaller gaps, particularly around the tops of the starter and alternato,r with hand cut pieces of baffle material and silicone, requiring considerable contortion of my hands . It's particularly a PITA to seal around the oil return tube that is between the alternator and prop. I've spent many hours futzing around with this and other parts of the doghouse, and I'm convinced the baffle is tight now. Sadly this effort and expense seems to have made little or no difference in my CHTs.
  5. CHT for Cyl 2 and 4

    FWIW, I have a '68 C with full 8 temp probe setup that serves as primary for CHT. I have gotten the baffle as tight as I can get it over the past two years. My initial fuel flow in WOT climb is 17-18 gph, and I have excluded other causes of high CHTs like timing, oil cooler/vernatherm valve function, intake leaks, and exhaust leaks blowing on a probe. I have pulled reconditioned 3 cylinders for exhaust valve or ring issues under my ownership in the past 3 years. Even after such invasive engine work, the overall CHT profile has remained exactly the same, with only minor improvements coming from meticulous work on my previously leaky baffle. I have bitched ad nauseam about my CHT issues on this site, and I am now convinced it is an intrinsic flaw in the baffle design on the C. In my case, #2 and #3 run similarly hot in climb - in the summer I can usually limit them to under 430 on a hot day if I drop nose to 120mph as soon as practical, but keeping those two below 400 is a lost cause. In cruise in summer, #2 is the only problem child, running 20-30 hotter than the next hottest cylinder, even though this is far from the leanest cylinder. At 22.5/2500 while cruising at 7500msl, it typically makes me burn an extra gph than necessary (10.5 vs 9.5) to keep my #2 CHT from climbing beyond the 380s. This problem is less limiting outside of the summer months. @Sabremech was busy optimizing a beautiful and potentially economical new cowl and baffle design for our C models and pursuing an STC for it. This seems like the way to go, but I have not kept up with his progress recently.
  6. Helpful info for sure. Interestingly, the previous owner put on the LASAR enclosed wingtips, which per my understanding are purely aesthetic, on my old C. As a utilitarian minimalist, this violates my sensibilities by both adding weight and precluding me from removing my belly flasher, whose $40 bulb I recently had to replace. I'm still considering LED wingtip strobes but replacing the belly light doesn't seem worth it.
  7. 1966 M20C project for sale $14,500

    Always glad to see a nice C getting spared from the scrap heap!
  8. Hank - did you ever find a definitive answer to this? I suspect I have the identical wingtips on my C, and one of my strobe power supplies seems to be croaking. I'm looking at the Whelen application guide: https://www.whelen.com/pb/Aviation/System Requirements/Mooney.pdf But I'm not sure a retrofit into the Lasar aftermarket wingtips is covered here. I'm also not sure having the enclosed wingtip would let me remove my belly beacon and gain 20kt. Anyone here know?
  9. New drop-in LED bulbs from Whelen

    Just saw this post and would have jumped on these. But yesterday I noticed the Hoskins power supply for my left wingtip strobe seems to be dying - it's only firing the strobe once in a while. Now I don't want to put more money into the ancient system and may just do the $500 Whelan LED nav/strobe units to be done with it forever, and maybe remove my belly beacon at the same time. What's annoying is that there is still no drop in legal tail light replacement, and spending $400 for the hardware to make that one bulb LED is still too hard for me to stomach!
  10. Just happened to me

    Sorry for your pain - I'm confused by what I'm looking at here - I guess it's because I have an older style truss that lacks this stop mechanism? I just check my tubes during preflight if I've been parked at an FBO and wanted to make sure I'm not missing something .
  11. I bought an M20C out of Charleston SC 2.5 years ago and researched this question at the time. Closest option I found for real Mooney expertise in a prebuy was Cole Aviation in Dalton Ga, which is some distance away. I was satisfied with their work on the prebuy and subsequent annual.
  12. A few potentially relevant thoughts: 1. 15-16gph for takeoff seems too low to me - it should be above 17gph at least assuming you're not at a highDA. If you're really running that lean at WOT, you should have serious CHT issues on takeoff and down low at high power - is that the case? Also <15gph and WOT at takeoff at low DA will make my engine monitor alarm immediately from astronomical EGTs. Don't ask me how I know this. 2. Make sure your mixture cable pushes the lever on the carb all the way forward when set to full rich - a mis-adjusted cable could be a very simple explanation for your observations 3. How is your fuel pressure under conditions where fuel flow seems too low? If pressure is low, this might suggest your issue is in the fuel system somewhere before your carb. 4. Turns out there are 3 flavors of the Marvel Schleber MA-4-5 carb that are approved for the O-360-A1D in the C model: 10-4164-1, 10-3878, 10-3878-M. They differ in how rich they run - it may be worth knowing which one you have and if you got a different one at last overhaul when your problems started. 5. Of course fuel flow meter calibration could be an issue, but seems less likely if you also have objective evidence of it running too lean. As I note above, your low fuel flows at high power settings should give you serious engine temp issues.
  13. I hope you're right because this is indeed how I operate my O-360. Also visualizing the red box for each individual cylinder in a carb'd plane as you lean is impractical. I would be curious to have more information on this issue though.
  14. Best C forsale currently?

    Very nice! I bet it got full price and was worth it if no major issues. Mine's nicer, but it's not for sale
  15. Summmer Leaning on Approach

    But I assume what the OP is describing is not roughness near idle but at a more typical pattern MP of around 15" ? Does idle mixture make much of a contribution at those power settings? I'm guessing most peoples planes run rough at idle with carb heat on - mine sure does and it's correctly adjusted based on your method.