PTK

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PTK last won the day on January 8 2016

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About PTK

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  • Birthday January 21

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KVAY, Mt. Holly, NJ
  • Reg #
    N910BU
  • Model
    M20J

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  1. I see 19.2 to 19.4 gph at 2700 RPM @ sea level.
  2. It will not. The ground power port goes through a really requiring power to activate it. The battery minder does not provide enough power to both activate relay and charge the battery. I have my battery minder wiring permanently attached to the battery and ran to baggage compartment. It’s secured down and terminates to a plug into which the bm plugs to. I have the bm wired in series to a remote gsm switch and out to power from an extension cord through pilot window. Airplane is locked with a wire hanging out the pilot window and I have instant notification of status on my iphone. This setup has served my Concorde battery well going on 10 years now. I considered adding a little access door on the avionics bay panel but decided it wasn’t necessary.
  3. This is easily solved. Simply land at your destination, fuel up and then fly to your alternate.
  4. Thank you Byron. The strobe fixture works I took it out and tested it. I didn’t have a tester with me to check power to wire. I suspect I don’t have 12V to the red strobe power wire. I will check to see if it somehow became disconnected from under the panel.
  5. My left wingtip strobe stopped working out of the blue. The nav light works and it’s not the fixture. I took it out and tested it. Does anyone know if the strobe lite switch is wired to each wingtip strobe individually, i.e. two wires from the switch, one to each strobe? Or are they wired in series? i.e. one wire from the switch to one stribe and then from that to the other strobe? I can’t tell from the wiring diagram because it shows three wires coming out of one side of the strobe cb switch and a fourth on other side. I’m trying to narrow it down before I start tracing wires or crawl under the panel! Thanks in advance. Here’s a pic of wiring diagram:
  6. You can find the switches. Lasar had them. Not worth paying 150$ for used switches when you can pay a little more for new!
  7. Excellent point Paul. Along those lines I’d also like to know if the existing servos are compatible with the new ones. Can the existing servos be replaced one at a time if need be or do they have to all be replaced at once? For example, can I replace say... my pitch servo with a new one and retain the existing roll and pitch/trim until if and when they need to be replaced?
  8. The constant alarm is a trim alert. The only source in the KFC150 is the autopilot disconnect/trim interrupt switch and associated circuit. That’s the red round switch on the yoke. That switch has two functions: pressing it once disconnects the ap. Pressing it and holding it down “interrupts” power to the pitch/trim servo for as long as its held pressed. The purpose is to immediately interrupt a runaway trim condition followed by pulling the breaker. Power will return when stop pressing it. Did you check to see if alarm stops when you pull the trim cb? I would check this and get it fixed asap. You don’t want to be in a runaway trim situation with that switch not working correctly.
  9. So what’s the rush to check the box? You are not prepared to go fly in IMC from a 7 or 10 day “check that box” course! I don’t care what anyone tells you. I don’t see what the benefit is to go to the check ride before you are ready. You’re going to have to practice anyway so why rush it.
  10. Enabling the G5 to display OAT and TAS (and wind info for the HSI version) is very nice. But disappointing it still will not provide attitude reference to king autopilots. The HSI version is very nice though. Provides GPSS and now wind speed/direction along with enabling manual switching between nav sources from the G5. I haven’t seen anything definitive from Bendix King. Just some confusing info. Anyone heard any news from them?
  11. I wonder what Chuck thinks about the Rocket. “...that's stupid!! you can’t take on fuel but you gotta fly around carrying lead weights!!...”
  12. Maybe sticky and intermittent starter solenoid also. If it happens again I would seriously look at replacing the starter relay. I don’t know where it’s located in your E but I can tell you it was a pita in my J!
  13. If showing 12v sounds like the battery is low. Should be showing ~12.7 or above. At 12v your battery is down to about 25% charge. How old is your battery.
  14. That would be so easy for them to do but I have my doubts they’ll do it! We’ll find out tomorrow! I’m holding my fingers crossed! They think people will rush to remove their KFC/KAP and buy the GFC500. I’m not doing it and I suspect there are lots of other owners who feel similarly.
  15. This shows the components. https://www.bendixking.com/en/~/media/bendixking/files/a60-2110-000-000_aerovuetouch_8-br.pdf The 71 and 7010 appear to be part of a more comprehensive upgrade i.e. aerovue touch and/or aerocruze. So if all we want is to remove the KI256 and vacuum keeping the KFC150, then the KI300 and 310 adapter make more sense. In other words the money spent on 71 and 7010 would make more sense when doing aerovue touch and aerocruze. Also see section 3.1, on top of pg. 4 of this... https://www.bendixking.com/en/~/media/bendixking/files/2019bk07-aerocruze-230-autopilotpdf-buyers-guide.pdf