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Everything posted by carusoam

  1. Anyone know what it takes to add an electric actuator to a manual gear? Best regards, -a-
  2. To see a really fancy M20C for sale... Best regards, -a-
  3. Rough pricing that covers the things that people pay extra for... You can always find one for less. A PPI can keep you from getting stuck. 1) C 30 AMU 2) E 40 AMU 3) F 50 AMU 4) Low time engine Add another 10 AMU 5) Newish Paint Add 5 AMU 6) Newish interior Add 5 AMU 7) Resealed tanks Add 5 AMU 8) WAAS gps Add 5 AMU 9) Autopilot connected to the GPS Add 5 amu 10) Updated six pack IP Add 5 AMU 11) A real nice full loaded J is going to be near 100AMU I started with A), 17 years ago. PP thoughts only, not a sales guy. For actual sales numbers, go see Jimmy and David @ All American.... Best regards, -a-
  4. Way cool. The prop was missing from the video. Learn something new every day at MS! Best regards, -a-
  5. Welcome aboard Brian, Are you using the same screen name over on BT? You might want to include your location with your avatar details. Some people might want to stop in and see you regarding this hardware. Just sharing how I feel about expensive cool stuff. Best regards, -a-
  6. Sniff, Scurry, hem and haw were classic... When management is handing out 'who moved my cheese' and you noticed that your cheese hasn't been moved yet... That's a preemptive maneuver. A good time to strengthen your relationships outside of your organization. Change is coming... The harder/better you work, the better change will be for you. Best regards, -a-
  7. That was a fun Mooney ride. Thanks for sharing that video. I was hoping to see the airspeed readout on the G500 display while having the birds-eye view out the windshield. What POV camera were you using for that? Best regrads, -a-
  8. 30U, Is that your forever plane? Or might you be selling it one day? I have seen a few nicely updated Cs. But I don't see many updated Cs go up for sale. Best regards, -a-
  9. Why are you expecting to use a star? We have a few around my area. They seam to be a great way to organize traffic flow for some big planes going to big airports. My IR is a bit rusty... Best regrads, -a-
  10. The state of the O schematics is much advanced compared to the previous drawings... Great for wiring ideas, just needs to be translated to 12V at the parts level. PP ideas only, not a mechanic. Best regards, -a-
  11. Bending the fuel gauge sounds like a good idea until you realize what you gain on one end gets lost at the other. The original gauges work pretty well until worn out. Accuracy of the gauges on the ground is a tad off because of the nose high attitude. The best way to handle this is to stick the tank. There are a few threads around here on how to build and calibrate your own stick. There isn't a short cut that can be relied on as a stick that has been built for your plane. There is a lot of variation at the top of each fuel tank through the years. The bottom variations aren't as well known. But, can be as simple as drain holes that have been accidently sealed over by somebody... PP ideas only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
  12. Thoughts on the subject of wifi and blue tooth... 1) Wifi is pretty sensitive to electrical/radio noise... 2) In house example.... As in my iPad loses connection to wifi when somebody turns on the new microwave. The old microwave wasn't any better.... 3) Electric motors like those found on AC compressors might benefit from some attention around the noises they might emit. 4) turning off the AC to see if wifi and blue tooth return would make for an interesting test. 5) blocked signals is one part. 6) interference with the signals is a separate part. See if these ideas are helpful for you...? Best regards, -a-
  13. Roger, No assumption was made. I was late thirties when I got my M20C. Crunchiness in the shoulder gave me something to work on... I was young with aging shoulders. Learning to fly my M20C without the benefit of the MS community was a big challenge. The MAPA magazine was good, but hard to search through the history for articles.... Now I'm old enough to know and appreciate physical therapy. I can see many people do this a few times per week. The operation of the Mooney landing gear is not all that hard when you know how to work it. Like all things in aviation... it can be more challenging to learn for one person than it is for another person. This is one of those things where you are going to have to want it to make it happen. Then take steps in the right direction. Planning the possible route... 1) approval from the doc to make sure he is OK with your activity. 2) seek guidance from a trainer at the gym. They have backgrounds in physical therapy. They start with the motions with no weights at first. Good quality Trainers cost a lot less than CFIs and avgas. 3) work your way up over time... 4) seek a flight instructor with an M20C or other manual gear Mooney. 5) go flying with a focus on gear operations. It is like doing slow flight and stalls. Gear ops are part of both... 6) the CFI has some unique skills, as he has to operate the gear left handed as well... 7) All of this costs money. It becomes worth it at the point you know you can use the manual gear or you know you need the electric switch. 8) This is a lot like using a manual transmission. A lot of practice, reading, training, to get all of the nuances of the various conditions. 9) Lots of fun occurs after the skills and strengths are gained... 10) The worst that can happen... you have to make a decision based on knowledge you gained about yourself. How badly do you want the manual gear Mooney? Some people really like their manual Mooneys. These are the ideas of a PP, not a physical therapist or a CFI. Best regards, -a-
  14. Welcome aboard Scott N., You are going to fit in well. Best regards, -a-
  15. Ask your orthopedist how a Long Body Mooney would work for you... 1) the gear switch is in the center of everything. 2) As if the LB's panel was designed around it. 3) Some practice, training or try-out may be required. The switch needs a few ounces of force pulling (at arms length) before moving up or down. 4) Done properly, the manual gear takes a similar amount of effort. Balance the airspeed vs. spring tension... 5) Off the ground, stow the gear. Easiest forces to overcome happen here. 6) Before getting to the traffic pattern, lower the gear. Easiest forces to overcome happen before here... 7) If you are serious about wanting manual gear, there is common gym equipment (LifeFitness) that can help measure arm strength of these motions. The strength is measured in pounds of force done by one arm. 8) probably a good idea to ask your doctor before trying the exercise machine... 9) there is a side benefit of going to the gym too... 10) Young guys have fear of aging too. Crunchy shoulder motion can be properly overcome. 11) If your butt comes off the seat while putting the gear up/bar down, you may have missed something... PP ideas only, not a gym rat (mostly). Best regards, -a-
  16. Talking about slow starters.... 1) Battery: new... fully charged. 2) Starter: OH'd... 3) the only thing left is what comes between all of this... - Solenoid switch. Known to get dirty with age.... - Wires. Not usually known for coming apart... - Grounds. Usually known for getting dirty or oxidized... 4) Anything that has been replaced should be reviewed for proper installation, tightness of connections, resistance to ground.... 5) +1 Skytech troubleshooting guide. PP ideas and thought process. Not a qualified mechanic. Best regards, -a-
  17. From the O POH... 25. HOUR METER Hour meter - located on baggage compartment bulkhead and indicates elapsed time while engine is running. Location may vary depending on installed systems. 1) Where is your Hobb's meter, G1000? What is your flight timer? 2) the hour meter and its description indicates the engine being on. Could be an oil pressure switch or as simple as a wire from the ignition switch or another engine on sensor... oddly includes warm-up, taxi, run-up, TO roll, flight time, landing roll-out, taxi time, and final shut down... 3) a flight timer clearly indicates something different. Ground operations are not part of a flight timer. 4) We have discussed this before. I just don't recall the detail. The O1 has only the meter on the back wall. Conveniently out of view and out of mind of the inevitable OH that is implied by using another hour.... 5) What has changed that would make your flight timer be much shorter than your engine timer? Longer taxis than usual lately? 6) Have you gotten new technology like ADSB that is actually measuring the time the flight occurs. Gear up time only? Interesting question... Best regards, -a-
  18. +1 on John's voltage discussion. My JPI is my voltage indicator... very accurate compared to the old analog ship's gauge. If your system is working, it will be showing good volts. If it is draining, the volts will be going lower. get used to the name Zeftronics. See if it is in your logs anywhere. Best regards, -a-
  19. JL, you have out done yourself on this one! All of the details, delivered. Question for the audience... Any way to avoid the ring issue? descending, power off, preserving oil in the engine, is there anything left that can be done to improve this situation? 1) pull the prop all the way back to improve glide ratio. 2) throttle position all the way back. Less air to compress? 3) fuel mixture cut off. No fuel sent through the engine... 4) looks like the rings are going to get sacrificed for the good of the engine... Great discussion. Lots to think about... including where I store my passport. Best regards, -a-
  20. @acpartswhse @Alan Fox -a-
  21. Get on it... Lasar probably has some details to know about... Of all the things, this one is probably not measured in AMUs.... carburetor parts like the valve and bits are probably available through A. spruce. Also check to see where the warm air is coming from, just in case somebody removed it along the way...(?) Best regards, -a-
  22. Derek, you may want to update your avatar with the location. The thread is getting longer and matching the original details is more of a challenge... Best regards, -a-
  23. RB, There is a thread discussing piano hinge details. From what I recall it is for the nose gear hinges. There might be some interesting details to be found there as well... There were also discussions on replacing the baggage door in other threads. Every now and then somebody leaves one unlatched. It depends on how fast they were going when they found out about the issue... good luck and best regards, -a-
  24. See if this opens up some ideas...then ask the question with more detail. When using an Ovation, the POH gives guidance for both ROP and LOP. If you have the 310hp STC, the Stc has additional guidance.... 1) become familiar with the blue box on the ship's EGT gauge, white box if you have a G1000. 2) In most planes the Chts are installed after leaving the factory adding to the variation. 3) CHTs. Are very dependent on power setting an OAT. There are no O cowl flaps. Location, as in distance from the exhaust valve plays a large role. 4) usual guidance for CHTs.... keep them under 380°F when possible. Best cylinder health is cool. 5) what engine do you have? What max rpm are you using? There is a max FF that you should be getting. 25 gph to over 30gph... 6) the Ships EGT gauge is the one used for power settings. The blue box is used for climbing ROP. 7) Peak is where you find it, on your machine, on this day... weather and altitude dependent. 8) ROP is richer than where you found peak. 9) I made a few assumptions like, Hugo is flying an O. His O's ship's EGT gauge has a blue box. He knows how to find the peak while leaning.... 10) I'm hoping this is helpful. I am only a PP trying to learn about flying... Hugo, Please ask the question with as much detail as you can. These fine gentlemen here can answer better, once you have supplied the proper details... Take a moment to add some detail to your avatar. Location can be pretty helpful. Best regards, -a-
  25. A simple rivet patch job can be a One day wait... a whole tank is done by sealing up certain parts first over a few days... A pro strip and reseal is done over a couple of weeks... a way to find out would be Reading the instructions on the sealant material... if it is a chemical cross-linking reaction or a solvent drying. Both will be a time / temperature waiting game. Last thing you want to do is rush the process after spending so much effort cleaning the old stuff out. Which sealant material are you planning on using? there is Some discussions regarding Flame Master (?) materials and possibly other sealants... their websites may also have some answers... Alex did a nice job of documenting the project of stripping and resealing entire tanks on his plane. PP thoughts only. Best regards, -a-