Yetti

The take off was explained to me like this by Mooney Safety Instructor. Lift off, gear up, dip level for a second to pick up speed and get the wing flying, then go up. The Mooney wing needs good airflow to get flying. Go around should be the same. first off due to habit. I had this conversation with the another Safety Instructor last Thursday. The key being to fly level/aviating after applying power after a go around instead of trying to go up. Collect your wits about you then start doing things like gear up then flaps up. Mooney wing airfoils are NACA 63-215 wing root and NACA 64-412 at the tip The Beechcraft Bonanza does not have a specific, named airfoil. Instead, it utilizes a modified NACA 23015 airfoil

. am going to give points for consistancy

just thought I would stop by and say check FaceBook Market Place for Oxygen Concentrates. Professional course on a closed driver.

If I was going to do one, I would replace the spikes with 1"x1/8 angle aluminum that was cut and sharpen into a spike. Also using some 1" climbing webbing in a self equalizing anchor set up would reduce the shock loading and anchor failure. Anchoring is more about not creating hard points to fail....

Pretty sure the horse is not dead so a couple more kicks. Let's define Airworthy Found this one. "ANSWER: There are two conditions that must be met for an aircraft to be considered "Airworthy” 1. The aircraft must conform to its type design (TC). Conformity to type design is considered attained when the aircraft configuration and the components installed are consistent with the drawings, specifications, and other data that are part of the TC, which includes any supplemental type certificate (STC) or other approved alterations. 2. The aircraft must be in a condition for safe operation. This refers to the condition of the aircraft relative to wear and deterioration, for example, skin corrosion, window de-lamination or crazing, fluid leaks, tire wear, etc. If either of these two conditions cannot be met, the aircraft is considered to be un-airworthy. So, the goal for those persons who operate and maintain aircraft is to keep them in an airworthy condition or what is referred to as “continued airworthiness”. " If you took a large sample of late 1900s airplanes and reviewed them against the Type Design I bet that about 50% would not pass.

Agreed. I just had this conversation with my friend from above post. The Owner is already required by the regs to ensure the Airplane is Airworthy. That infers that an Owner has the knowledge to know what makes the Airplane Airworthy. Simplistically the hanging Adel Clamp from the picture at the start of this thread would make the Airplane not airworthy because it was not as specified in the Maintenance Manual. So if as an owner I can see the unairworthyness of the item, denying the owner the ability to fix a simple non complex item seems rather silly as the owner is already been made responsible.

Seems like there should be a Maintainer category of mechanics for simple stuff and a Major category (rebuilding engines and OH major components like fuel servos.

Thanks @Hank used your description. I have a friend on the EAA tech Committee. Or something like that. He also spent 4 years getting the Dynon Autopilot approved for the Baron. I sent him this email: The summary is: How can we get an item added to the list of the PM items that an Owner/Pilot is able to perform? The Item to be added is the ability to change brake linings. Discussion: Pilots are able to change tires under the PM section of the Rules. Generally this task involves: jack up plane; remove the wheel and brakes lining holder; remove the brake rotor from the wheel; remove the wheel bearings; separate the wheel halves; replace the tire and/or tube; reassemble the wheel halves; inflated the tire and check for leaks; add the brakes lining holder; clean and repack the wheel bearings; put the wheel bearings back in; mount the assembly onto the gear leg; lower the plane from the jacks. The removal and replacing several rivets along with the brake linings does not seem to be that much more complex of a task than the above. I would also see this as a test case to adding other items to the PM list of items that can be performed. Since a rule/law needs to be rewritten possibly rewrite it as "list of PM items as approved by the Commissioner" which would not require the law to be changed to add an item.

Thanks for that. I am not really looking for an interpretation of the existing rules. More a how do we add a task to the list of PM items that were arbitrarily determined some time back during the Wright Brothers Era.

It kind of makes me want to call the FAA and ask how we get an item added to the list of PM list that Owners (who are responsible for maintenance of the planes) and pilots who can sign off on the work.

Which can be done from the front of the plane. This would only be seen if you INSPECT from the back of the plane. The worst part of this was I was changing a tire, which of course is allowed PM, but you have to remove the brake pads assembly which is certified mechanic work. One of the break pads needs replacing, so I changed the tire, and reassembled the should be replaced brake pad cause replacing a rivet in a pad liners is so dang hard only a certified mechanic could do it well that and I did not have brake pad linings.

The bad thing was I did not go check the other side after I changed the tire and fixed this side.

yep. this one was easy so the nut driver worked and it was already in hand. The #1 phillips and then some forceps works too. they seemed to be curved just right. I have about 4 pairs of forceps. Yetti sized hands are not good to work on a Mooney with.

Now you are making it worse because annual inspection was in January. Which means the guy lubing it had to have seen it and ignore it. I have already cleaned up a fair amount of grease after the last lube job in January. I get it Adel clamps are a pain, I smashed it down with a nut driver and let the tension hold it till I got a nut on it. There are degrees of perfection.....

To follow certified mechanics.

Ignition Breaker. Which would be some safety. The master switch provides complete disconnect so that should be good enough. With the master off you would need two pieces of swiss cheese to line up to have a accidental start.

Take the cover off the inside. using a tennis ball slowly work that crease out. Possible a rounded piece of wood. Once it is less creased along the length, you may need to tap the center of the crease out with a plastic dent repair hammer. Watch some paintless dent repair videos on youtube. Work it out slowly. Should make it looks presentable.

Never really seen those stay stuck for long inside. doubt outside would change history.

Are you sure it is not a speed clip or speed nut that has been bent at a 90 degree angle?

You could just use a one of the screw clips like are on the panel bottom. run the tywrap through it before you put on the lightening hole.

I will just say kudos for taking a flight above the airport and then checking things. Provide a list of things so the Owner can have a coaching session with the trainee. Really need to get check and recheck in the new person head. Find a new shop.

Assuming the right wing? There should be no laying wires on the wing panel. Follow the temp sensor wire at the leading edge wing root by the door. The fiberglass ceiling wire snakes are helpful here. There is an access panel on the lower wing that is about 3 panels out. I had to run a 9 conductor wire for the Dynon. Even if you don't use the same rib hole you can still tywrap to that wire bundle to make a neat install. I would run the loose end back to the cabin. Pull the lower panel in the cabin to route wires to Comm Bay. I mounted the Magnetometer to an access panel out board of the fuel tank middle of the wing. One you can route wires to, the next one outboard could not get wires to. If I get to the plane I will identify which one. It takes a little figuring, but it works.

Gonna hazard a guess, but the planes with lightening detectors got static whips.

one thread about valves.

It's not coming from inside the sniffle valve. Otherwise it would be a drip at the end of the fuel output drain. This is coming from the hose up above. and draining down the outside of the hose. Someone might have missed the filler when filling it with oil.