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And yeah, I have experience doing this. It was part of the troubleshooting we did years ago when the breaker would pop. Bought a brand new switch and installed it. Kept the old one as a spare when the new one didn’t fix the issue. There are a ton of wires to that switch and I think it would be best not to try to disassemble it. I would get a good look at the back of your switch first to make sure your replacement matches. On my F the gear switch sits high in the panel and access to it can be from above after the glareshield is removed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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That’s not what he said in post 6. He was referring to photo 1, the broken one. I don’t see a cotter pin on the white wheel in photo 2. This is what I am calling the set pin. Which lines up where the other one is broken. Roughly 4 threads up from the base. I have a spare gear switch at my hangar. Will look at it tomorrow and report back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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I used LP Aero glass. I do not think the vendor matters much. When I bought the windows, LP Aero provided a copy of the Mod Work STC. That is probably why I used LP Aero. Be sure to drill out the window significantly larger than the screw size you are using. Also, check the countersink angle. I have attached a document from Dugosh from 10 years ago describing their process. John Breda Dugosh-windows.pdf
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Thanks John. I’ve been leaning towards the 1/4” glass and it is good to hear it is doable on an F. Do you recall the supplier of the glass? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Inner Gear Doors on a Johnson Bar Mooney
Marauder replied to M20F-1968's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
What your describing makes sense. Those inner gear doors add more drag and I believe this is the reason the J models have a different ratio on their electric gear. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro -
Chris: I have 1/4" glass all the way around. They are all screwed in as with the originals, but the screws are one size larger given the dimpling in the skin and existing hole sizes. We did not need to do any work to create a step in the window. Certainly the surface facing outside is flat and original. Obviously the window needed to be trimmed to fit. I do not believe there was any thinning of the glass anywhere. The work ws done by an excellent sheetmetal mechanic who had worked at Gulfstream X 20 yers. John Breda
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Do you have any idea why Greg sees an oil temperature drop when he cycles the props of a TSIO520? Do you see a drop when you cycle the prop of the 520 on your rocket? He says they all do that. I was terribly confused for a moment given that a 540 is a Lycoming product and that TSIO is typically a Continental. I was further confused by the fact that you’re an Ovation owner (IO550). I now realize that you are likely referring to the TSIO520s on the C402s that you fly for work.
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I did one for my plane and got all the reports. Not sure why it works sometimes and not others
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Thanks Cody, the information is much appreciated!
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Inner Gear Doors on a Johnson Bar Mooney
DanM20C replied to M20F-1968's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Some have removed them. I think I’m going to remove them from my K along with the bulky wing fairings, then roatate the brakes. It makes for a clean looking gear, easier maintenance, and no speed penalty. Cheers, Dan -
If you don't mind the loss of rate of turn you can put an Attitude Indicator in the TC spot per AC 91-75, with some power source restrictions and you need to put in a slip/skid indicator.
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If your looking for circulation of oil, you have to look towards the Reverseing Feathering Turboprops. they have 90+ degrees of travel an that kinda movement requires lots of oil movement.
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Awesome trip! I enjoyed listening to your dad! Love the video. Looks like you are the king of gadgets! Beautiful airplane my friend! Your rear window shades are neat. Are they linen or leather? Looks like they block a lot of light. Factory rails? -Matt
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You pretty well have it Pegged Shadrach. Very little oil flow an zero Circulation. When a Prop is screwed on the first time after O/H or New, the oils that is pumped into the cylinder at that time, will be the same oil that’s in the cylinder when the propeller is taken off next. The grey gunk is nothing more than the solids out of the oil that is not circulating. That being said, the ol wives tale of warming up the oil in the Prop is just that. Its a very simple system not so different than a single acting hydraulic setup on a Bush Hog. In the video below, you can see there is only around 20 Degrees of movement from Low/High pitch. Very little flow. DB73CEA0-0FF5-40CB-A6F9-F522893349B5.MOV
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CiES Fuel Senders Resource Thread
Bob - S50 replied to Marauder's topic in Avionics/Panel Discussion
We did it with a J sort of. We have an engine monitor but it is not certified primary. We have the Aerospace Logic gauge and Cies floats. The stock fuel gauges are disconnected and placarded INOP. So are the fuel low level lights on our annunciator. -
Most "Graceful" way to get in and out of a Mooney
Lance Link replied to Nstarbf's topic in General Mooney Talk
assuming the seats were left all the way back last flight, do the Hokey Pokey: Put your right foot in, keep your left foot out, stoop and grab the windshield frame handle with your right hand, then left foot in, grab black bar and sit in passenger seat in one smooth elegant movement. To slide over, move your feet then hoist over using the same handholds. Exit in reverse. If teaching a passenger it helps to sing the song. -
I just want to fly.
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Time to get a new cell phone. Need suggestions
ZuluZulu replied to nels's topic in Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
Good point @Hector, I forgot to mention the battery life. Even better than the XS. -
A 930 isn’t in my budget yet. If I go with the Aerospace Logic (FL202D), what happens to the old fuel gauges in the “6 pack” cluster? Would they need to be placarded? Has anyone done this in a C/E/F without an engine monitor integration? Thanks for the help.
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Good to know. Full feathering is a different animal. The flow is reversed. My hartzell is against the fine pitch stops until the governor takes it off the stops. I believe your prop is the opposite. As to the oil temp drop from green to yellow from a hub that likely holds well under a pint of oil, I can’t say. My hub operates on onces of oil actuating a counter sprung piston. The oil moving back and forth through the crank to actuate it has never had any impact on oil temp that I can recall. I’ll surely double check though the next time I fly.
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Inner Gear Doors on a Johnson Bar Mooney
SantosDumont replied to M20F-1968's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I have the inner gear doors on my F with a Johnson bar. I bought the plane with them so I can’t speak to any speed increase. Over 75kts and the gear becomes impossible to stow without doing the Mooney dip. -
Your set pin is beneath the wide flat ring in the panel in Photo 1. What Anthony calls a cotter pin is inside the white plastic "wheel" in Photo 2. Check location of the pull-to-move dimples to confirm that you are talking about a different thing than Anthony.
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I too have observed the sludge that you speak of. Perhaps @Cody Stallings can speak to its formation. Oil flowing through the flange is ostensibly in a closed centrifuge, so the fact that particulate accumulates there does not surprise me. So it’s your understanding that the governor pressurizes the front bearing and the prop hub? It’s always been my assumption that there was a separate journal for governor pressure oil to the prop. I’m sure you’ve removed many more promise than I have, but the ones that I have removed have: 1) always been full of oil no matter how long the bird has been sitting. and 2) Had a single pathway to and from the hub’s cylinder (like a hydraulic line to an actuator). If I’ve been misinformed or have misunderstood, then I look forward to clearing up my misunderstanding. Just to clarify, I’ve never suggested that it’s a bad idea to pull the prop control through. I do it during taxi at 900 RPM and the prop goes course just like it does at 1700. The business of sitting in the run-up area jockeying your prop vernier back-and-forth multiple times at high rpm is something I find useless. I pull during taxi and watch rpms fall from 900 to 600. That tells me all I need to know. I’ve flown airplanes with governors that start to “hunt” before but that typically shows up in the takeoff roll not the run up. Same deal with the mags. I taxi with the engine very lean. The fact that the engine will run on either mag and at roughly the same or rpm with the mixture leaned so far back tells me that the mags are functioning reasonably well. A relatively even EGT rise across all cylinders running on each mag tells me the ignition switch is working and that I am actually switching from a dual ignition source to a single ignition source. A high power, inflight LOP mag check reveals a great deal more about the condition of the whole ignition system. I’ll add that if I was flying a new to me airplane, I would do everything by the book. Given that I’ve been flying my current airplane for about 14 years I know it very well. I’ve developed what I believe are superior and less abusive methods of verifying its airworthiness. To each their own, I posed the question to get some discussion going. If doing a run up in the snow is a challenge, why not first ask yourself why you’re doing the run up. For some people the answer is “because I always have”. My answer to that is “fair enough” but this is why I do it differently.
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Most "Graceful" way to get in and out of a Mooney
Hector replied to Nstarbf's topic in General Mooney Talk
This! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Planning on flying up, plus 1. Hopeful it will be a plus 2.
