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  2. @bob865, See the note from guy G.... above regarding seal and seal material... for the air intake door... Best regards, -a-
  3. Got the radio back from mikes avionics out of AZ. He couldn't pin point a problem necessarily but he realigned the radio to specs And all is well know. I recommend for older king and narco problems. Clear as a bell now.
  4. Took a long two extra days for the mail to make it to NJ... They are nice! Best regards, -a-
  5. Somewhere around here is a discussion about using a magnet on a stick to check the turbo wheel axle for its stability... possibly pre-flight or a common maintenance activity... I think Tom/ @Yooper Rocketman may be familiar...? As far as Heiffer mice... they are much bigger than the ordinary mice... Best regards, -a-
  6. Great details, Vance! For an interesting conversation and pics of where ground wires can be found.... Brad posted some pics yesterday... I learned a few things to look for... Best regards, -a-
  7. @Jerry Pressley Jeff is looking for you again... Good to invite @M20Doc to the party as well... (262 starter, T drive issue, light weight starter) -a-
  8. Boy, that is a killer fee! flew into KGYI today, fun trip... -Don
  9. Weekly... no worries... two weeks... People get concerned and try to get a quick flight in... three weeks... you start worrying if the pilot is getting rustier than the engine... four weeks... you start assembling an engine dryer.... and connecting it to the internet with a nice sensor... Then you balance this with other peoples experience... some people go for months without flying and have no issues.... Materials of construction, weather, storage conditions... all matter... If you fly weekly, you won’t feel the rust monster... If you fly twice each week... your landings will be impressive.... PP thoughts only, not a CFI or mechanic... Best regards, -a-
  10. Today
  11. From the cylinder side of the valve... We are always discussing the uniformity of circular patterns around the valve... Nicely round with rings, looking like a pizza with a nice crust... When a valve starts to mis behave.... there is often a hot spot radiating out from the edge of the valve... Breaking a piece out of the crust image looking beauty... This occurs when the valve doesn’t rotate smoothly and distribute heat evenly all around... So with no compression... something isn’t working very well... but it hasn’t been mis-behaving very long it seems... Of course this is PP thoughts only... not a mechanic... +1 on cleaning, reaming, resurfacing, valve work mentioned above.... Best regards, -a-
  12. How long can an engine sit before you start to worry about internal corrosion?
  13. If that’s Lead on the seat like my 520 had, a little Valve Grinding Compound, Drill, Fuel hose an Patient Mechanic can fix it Had a Cylinder that was 15/80 an spooling the Turbo up, to 72/80 an quiet exhaust pipe in a couple hours. Very satisfied, except for the pep talk about run it leaner. Which I do now an Borescope is showing less deposits in the Cylinders an the belly stays cleaner longer
  14. 1) is this rust? 2) If yes... it isn’t going to get better on its own... (odd that there is so much in one tank all of a sudden?) 3) If no... let’s figure out what it is.... And where it came from... 4) Mid 60s Mooneys are known for having a rust source at the top of each fuel tank.... (Rich gave a great explanation above) 5) A single pic comparison is all it takes... 6) Swapping in a SS part in place of the mild steel part will end the rust issue... 7) Discussing rust challenges is simple... nobody wants them... 8) Rust particles come in various sizes... some fall to the bottom of the tank... before moving towards the sump drain... often the sump drain gets stuck open with all the tiny sand like particles in it.... some Particles float with the fuel to get past the first course screen on the fuel pick-up in the tank... When they get this far, they land on top of the fuel separator screen, until they are small enough to get through the screen... Where they sit in a drop of water and oxidize some more... At this point you may be catching rust particles as they drain out when you pull the ring.... Nothing stops these particles from heading towards the fuel delivery system for the engine... One more screen to go... closer to the engine. So... If you have rust particles... identify the source... a non shiny, non smooth, fuel tank neck is one made of mild steel... it rusts and sheds particles... Solution... replace said neck... with a modern SS one... they don’t rust... so they don’t shed... Replacing these parts is a bit expensive, and probably needs some sealant to complete... My 65C’s fuel necks looked fine from the outside... until the hole rusted all the way through from the inside... large amounts of water in the tank made it more than obvious what was happening... The days before MS were more difficult than the days after MS... Post a nice close-up of your fuel neck’s surface... this is the shaped metal part that the fuel cap sits in... if it isn’t shiny and mirror finished... And is more gray with traces of stress marks left over from forming... Plan on swapping in a new part or two... less cost than resealing the tank by far... But... don’t do it until you have found that it is rusting... swapping parts just because won’t win any precious CB awards... pics from inside the tank of the back side of the neck... would be great! PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
  15. I can and it’s investing $175k vs that.
  16. So... For power to weight ratios... Missiles get 300HP Rockets get 305H Screamin’ Eagles get 310HP as do O3s, and Standing O’s... Find the empty weight for each specimen to do the math... Rockets make extra sense if you intend to fly in the FLs... While doing the comparisons... Keep your eye on this thing... Lots of goodies... Fiki, WAAS, G1000, 310hp.. But priced to match... It’s what the Missile grew into... Can you see the future? I started with a C, looked at a J, some MSer was selling their Missile, by the time 2008 happened/finished, I was buying the O... Best regards, -a-
  17. Paid $85k for our Missile. Has a run out bottom end, but top has only 400. Exhaust was entirely refurbed <300. Beautiful $14k paint and interior leather and ALL plastics and yokes by the master in Texas. <$10k for a dual G5 upgrade and another $7k for a 530w upgrade and 330 ADSB compliant transponder and we are just above $100k...Tank reseal and we have a beautiful Missile for <$110k....Deals are out there and when you spread the “upgrades” by three owners you have a relatively pain free “magic carpet”. Life is good. Missile=Awesome...
  18. Great update Stephen! Need pics of the fish! How is the work project going? Best regards, -a-
  19. That is true, is there a way for one gauge to fail which would reverse the natural trend?
  20. Except for the pucks, the tanks, low prop clearance, difficult to properly close door, difficulty in getting factory parts....
  21. The question is how does the sensor actually compensate for the change of atmospheric pressure..? It might be using two strain gauges that could err in opposite directions... Only one way to find out... Best regards, -a-
  22. If the sender on a Bravo was vented to the atmosphere it would read 7 psi high by 18,000 ft, not quite as sensitive as the coolant pressure gauge on an airplane I used to fly that would run at 10-18 psi based on altitude.
  23. If you had a vented body the pressure indication would increase with altitude. So you would think... But without the details from the manufacturer it is hard to tell what is going on and how it is failing... It also seems To expect to see a relative higher oilP as the atmosphere goes lower in pressure...as the difference between the atmosphere and OilP naturally increases... Ever see a pressure gauge marked PSIG? The pressure gauge people run into this same situation all the time... With industrial tanks... people want to know the pressure inside the tank, not relative to anything outside the tank... It is a bit more expensive to take atmospheric pressure out of the reading... Whatever method this gauge used seems to not be working quite right... The one lead we have to go on... is one MSer ran into a blocked vent hole on his oil pressure sensor... There will be a Time to over think this... we just haven’t gotten there yet... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a-
  24. Thanks Tom. Just another reason why we need to hand sanitize and do an “in person” hand shake lol....
  25. Do you happen to know the useful load number?
  26. Liquid Rockets got 350... Everyone else is held back to 310HP.... Yeah, held back isn’t really the right words for that... Best regards, -a-
  27. Expect that the reliable power source is the battery mounted in the tail... If your battery is mounted on the firewall... looks like things get a bit easier... Taking power for the mag from other locations would not be as reliable... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic. -a-
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