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Going 200 knots costs lots of $. Most 6 cyl turbocharged ~300 hp engines cost this much to have factory rebuilt.

Up to 18 or so according to ATC

At 8500 ft and 70F ROP my m20j cruises at 155 burning 10.3 gph. If I lean to 10F LOP it burns 8.3gph and cruises at 145. LOP ops cost me 10 knots WTH 20% fuel burn savings. Others have reported similar performance hits running LOP. You will only approach Poh numbers ROP. You gotta produce something close to max power.

I know this is an old post but I'm taking a chance. I have an M20J in my shop and need the same drawing. does anyone still have access to it? I can't get the manufacturer to call me back or answer emails.

Flying in smoke is no fun. Not good for you or the engine (check the air filter). We had fair amount of smoke in NorCal last few years. If able, I try to fly over the smoke or change the route. How high was the top of the smoke layer?

Mike, HRD in Santa Clarita is where I send all my bottles for work. They do rafts too. -Matt

I'd love to be able to work on our plane but I have a huge knowledge gap which isn't getting any better because we don't have any A&P buddies to sign off on any work that we would perform. For the longest time I was under the impression we couldn't do anything other than oil change, tire change, etc. but it seems quite a few people do work on their own aircraft then have someone else sign it off.

As I said earlier, I am hoping to get as much as can from what I have now. I don't have the money to replace a perfectly good prop for a couple of knots. If at the end of all investigations it turns out the prop is costing me all this speed loss, so be it. The plane was perfectly clean, with smooth leading edges. I will see if my mechanic can borrow the Mooney rigging tools, to check the controls, at the annual. I'll also get the gear checked.

The plane has flown regularly > 50 hours per year (last year I flew it 120 hours) for the past 7-8 years, since the engine was OH'ed by Penn Yan with new cam. The cylinders were replaced by the previous owner with new Lycoming cylinders due to a diagnosis of "rough running". My mechanic, when seeing this logbook entry, suspected that they may have had sticking valves and he was surprised that they did not try to hone the guides and instead elected to replace all 4 cylinders. But I guess if money was no object at that time... I have no reason to suspect a power issue, the plane climbs very well and performs excellent in all respects, short of the cruise speed.

Flew IFR back to Vegas yesterday from Hawthorne. Route took me right through the smoke from the fires. Zero vis and thick smoke for nearly an hour. Finally cleared around GOFS, but but my head was pounding (despite being on O2) and I started feeling bad. Diverted to KIFP. Pictures speak for themselves. Plane covered in ash. Wife had to drive 1 1/2 hrs to pick me up. Luckily, a friend will fly me back to IFP on Saturday to pick up the O.

Did you consider taking it apart and cleaning it. There is nothing calibrated in there. I have found crud in them before. If it is dyeing on rollout, it is almost always the idle mixture and idle speed.

Why were the cylinders replaced? Was the camshaft inspected at that time? Has it sat since then? If you suspect a power issue, you could be losing a lobe on the cam and not opening your valves fully. You can measure this at the rockers with the covers off and a dial indicator and appropriate fixturing. I had that suspicion in 2013 and found that my #1 & #2 intake cam lobe was measurably worn so I had to overhaul at that point. But that engine had 22 years and 2150 SMOH at that point too. The engine was running very smoothly at that point too.

Griggs installed mine a couple of months ago. I also had to wait quite a while for them to come in, but they actually installed them ahead of schedule. With the new fuel senders and my new engine monitor I am getting excellent fuel readouts. I am 100% satisfied. Good luck!

Looking for fuel distribution block for my Mooney bravo. My A and P said this part could be the issue when coming in to land and engine stalling on roll out.

Maybe this will work. I'm trying to keep the plate compact to keep it portable. Raising and lowering the plate as a whole would definitely work well, I just don't know a way to do it that won't become bulky and expensive. I'm open to suggestions. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

Ditch the 3-blade prop for a 2-blade Hartzell Top Prop. You'll probably also lose some vibration. Clean the plane - clean leading edges are worth a couple knots (seriously). Check rigging of all control surfaces using the Mooney rigging tools. Check gear as @KSMooniac said

To answer some of the comments. I did a careful W&B calculation, and my CG was smack in the middle of the acceptable envelope. (2133 lbs, 96.19 moment.) So, no, the CG was not far forward. I will try next time to add about 30 lbs of water jugs in the back of the plane, and we'll see how that goes, but it is a bit artificial. I have a digital tachometer, and the MP gauge was repaired and calibrated less than a year ago. I trust them. Other suggestions of what to try? Engine is 600 SMOH, with new cylinders about 250 hours ago, runs like a top.

No need for a prescription, you are not buying medical O2. Welding O2 is the same stuff.

Check with welding supply shops. They can refill it also. You may need a prescription though. Ask your doctor, he should write it out for you. also, ask your local fob’s who to go to.

Check with local dive shops, compressed gas dealers, and fire extinguisher companies.

Also, the only way to get nothing but N2 is to put in two valve stems, so you can purge the tire.

I am sure this is unrelated but my O-360 did not idle well for a long time until last month. Below about 800 rpm it always felt like it would quit until very warm....I had both of my mags overhauled and my annual done with C&W in Caldwell NJ and my plane has never idled so well now. Maybe it was a mag issue I had or maybe they did some mixture adjustment....or both..

There are a lot of local shops that do good work for a lot less than Aero Comfort. Yes, I know Aero Comfort does great work. But I tend more to CB status, so saving 10AMU or more is a good thing

I think it might be better to make a flat plate that lifts up. I think that steep angle will not clear the pant.

Not until the nose wheel gets to the hinge point.