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cliffy last won the day on December 16 2017

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About cliffy

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    N Arizona
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    You choose your position in life today by what you did yesterday
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    M20 D/C

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  1. No design problem involved Just the requirement to enrich for cooling (above that FF required to make full power).
  2. After looking at a long running thread about cooling and fuel flow and seeing so much confusion on the economizer, I thought this thread on how the carb actually works might be of interest- files/MA-4 Carb Manual.pdf This above is the best description of how the carb works from what I can find. If you'll go to page 1-3 paragraphs d an e you will read how the "economizer" actually works and how extra fuel is drawn into the engine at WOT and how the FF is reduced when the throttle is pulled back slightly. Suffice it to say that there is an air bleed in line with the fuel path to the discharge nozzle. Bleeding air into that path "leans" the mixture. How much is governed by how big the "air bleed jet" is. (NOT a field changeable jet nor legal to change because of carb model designation). Basic carb theory- the more air through the venturi- the more fuel is pushed through the main metering jet into the engine because the "pressure" in the throat of the carb with airflow is lower than the pressure of ambient air on the fuel in the float bowl. WOT means highest fuel flow. Now, a higher FF is needed to not only produce the rated HP of the engine but also the cool the cylinders at high power down low where 100% HP is achievable. This "extra" fuel flow is figured into the APPROVED carb design through the economizer system and air bleed jet size. Now, when the extra fuel flow is not needed and the throttle is pulled back for cruise the economizer air bleed is opened (it was held closed by a pin at WOT) and air is bled into the fuel stream going to the discharge nozzle thereby leaning the mixture by a predetermined amount (WITH A FULL RICH SETTING ON THE MIXTURE CONTROL). Once altitude is reached where manual leaning with the mixture control can be accomplished (less than 75% HP) then, the mixture is leaned (by the manual mixture control) further down the path to the main discharge nozzle and the economizer is no longer in the picture because the FF is now lower than the leaning provided by the economizer. This is why you can leave the throttle wide open for climb and cruise and still lean the mixture manually. It all flows through the same fuel channel. You don't need to pull the throttle back AND manually lean the mixture. The economizer only works, to lower FF with throttle position, when the manual mixture is full rich. Pulling the throttle back AFTER manually leaning the FF has NO effect on the FF to the engine as the FF is already below that predetermined FF that the economizer was set for. Hope this helps
  3. Reminds me of a song long ago "Only Fools Rush In" "Highly Modified" whether cars, boats, or planes has a unique and very limited market of buyers. In airplanes its a real mine field between a diamond in the rough and a crater. I'll take a clean, straight, as factory supplied vehicle any day over a "highly modified" unit especially with "issues". $$$$$$ cause lapses in critical thinking. Slow down and smell the roses. JMO
  4. I'm lucky in that this airplane was taken care of by the previous owner and I've had it over 15 years, watching for corrosion all the time. I had a Cessna 140 for 20 years that someone had put something black down inside the fuselage as a sound deadener that I was never able to get removed no matter what I tried. Your persistence in trying to do the right thing here is commendable. Many would just give up. Keep up the good work. You'll be glad you did in the end. Just had a thought- aircraft paint stripper? Might be worth a try.
  5. It used to be normal procedure to finish welding a fuselage, drill a small hole in each section of tube and inject a small quantity of linseed oil and then weld the hole closed. Kept the tubing from rusting from the inside out. Don't know if Mooney followed this procedure or not. It used to also be normal procedure for mechanics to make up fuel and oil hoses in house and do cylinder work in house. Had to learn how in A&P school many decades ago. Like other things its all lost to time.
  6. No brush made of any steel on Alclad aluminum. Alclad (which is what our planes are made of) has a layer of pure aluminum on the surface for corrosion control. Scratching it with any steel brush is a big problem. I once watched as a guy stripped his 310 and used coarse steel wool putting deep scratches in the surface that he had to fill and sand down before he could paint. Ruined the airplane. Maybe your "problem" with removal is why I elected to inspect according to the SB but continue to use the fiberglass insulation. If there are no leaks there is no problem with the old stuff. I have no leaks and NO rust anywhere on the tubing! Shields up, let the photon torpedoes fly!
  7. My point was directed at all the BIG RED BANNERS saying "BUYER BEWARE-THIS AD WAS POSTED BY A SCAMMER!" Quotation marks intentional. I'm well aware of due diligence. There are lots of them in avionics. Who determines they are scammers? I would think that Barnstormers would not want that on their website as it DOES reflect on their integrity as a selling site. If there is a plethora of scammer ads who's going to want to take a chance on their site? On anything? Even with due diligence.
  8. Ya, I've been over 700 kts also but in a blow torch with a wind. But alas, all my bragging rights are nothing to those who used to or still do sit in military blow torches and can do double what I've done. Did fly with a guy who had a sudden engine failure at 2.2M in a Phantom. Said he never wanted to repeat that one again. I have posted previously about my 170+ KT M20D model ride. But once and only once did I get to feel the speed of heat in it :-) :-) If "speed of heat" is appropriate for a D model? Just as an aside- I always wanted to be the guy who retired off of the SST and went to a new job interview on say a G4 and when asked what kind of time I had, I'd respond with- "Oh, not that much really, only about 9,000 hrs --- wait for it, wait for it--- ABOVE THE SPEED OF SOUND!" :-) :-) Obviously the OP had some anomaly in the computations transfers among the internet entities. Good thing we still do Dead Reckoning ain't it? "-) Break out the E6-B and a stop watch!
  9. I've never bought from Barnstormers but I peruse them occasionally, especially the avionics sections. Is it just me or are there many more scam alerts than there used to be? Are there that many scams being perpetrated there? If it has a scam warning why is it still posted on the board? Seems that the big red warnings would be bad for their reputation. Does Barnstormers take any control of the situation? I don't know enough to have an answer. Is it a mine field to find avionics there? Who does the scam warning labels? How do they know who is and who isn't a scammer? How do we know? Lots of questions with few answers - for me anyways. I guess I just don't know enough about it.
  10. Unfortunately not all people are as honest as Allan Fox or most of the posters here on MS I've bought a few items off this board and the folks I have dealt with have been fine, upstanding people. I have a question about Barnstormers which I will post a new thread on.
  11. I was told by Jerry years ago that in Mooneys mounting the entire system in the tail can lead to oscillations because of fluctuating pressure in the tail cone. He much preferred mounting forward of the instrument panel.
  12. All that speed came from a real good wax job. I've got the wax Its only $100/can :-)
  13. If anyone talks to Cory tell him I can't count the number of 14 hour duty days (16 hrs hotel to hotel) I had with the 121s when I was working. Long days and flying go together. Its part of the life you accept. Everything has trade offs.
  14. I am right now rerunning the existing wires on the left sidewall. Seems after 50 years things were done a little hap-hazard in the past on how to hang wire bundles in the sidewall. I'm also moving the battery to the rear so I have to run wires for that and the electric step actuator at the same time. Yes, I found the stuff on the TT website and I'll pull those and stub them off just in case I have to use them later. Thx.