cliffy

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cliffy last won the day on December 4 2015

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About cliffy

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    N Arizona
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    You choose your position in life today by what you did yesterday
  • Reg #
    N1969Y
  • Model
    M20 D/C
  1. Yes but I didn't get much response so I thought I'd try again.
  2. And if you read Harmon's account, he built the Mooney wing so strong so that it didn't mimic what had happened at Beech with the Bonanza wing he designed. He didn't want that to happen again (as we have seen over the decades). He said that Walter Beech kept having him lighten everything and Harmon felt this contributed to the loss of airplanes when the spar went south.
  3. First off disclaimer- I'm not advocating doing this to a flying airplane, this is just a head scratchier. IIRC the electric nose gear rods were made with spring bungees (like the main gear rods) to help lower strain on the gear motor when going into the down and locked position. Obviously if they are loaded correctly (correct crush) the gear holds just fine as has been shown for decades. If the above is true, then why wouldn't the same postulation hold true for manual gear actuation? Wouldn't spring bungees work just as good for the manual gear airplanes? Would they reduce the down and locked loading of the Johnson bar going into the socket, just as we are pushing up against the hard wall with the solid rods? Does the airplane know what type of actuator is hooked up to the cross shaft? Johnson bar or electric? Does it care? :-) If they were the same length and adjustable to the same min/max length I'd love to get a pair of bungee nose rods and try them just to see what the Johnson bar loading is like (or different) in the down and locked position. I'd drag my jacks out to the airport and install them and rerig twice (once to try it out and once to put the correct ones back in before flight. It might prove interesting. Anyone with any ideas to offer on the subject?
  4. I'n going to start a new thread about nose gear rods I've got a question for the group
  5. If your nose rods have been kept well lubed and movable you can sometimes get a ball park figure of load balance by rotating the rods around the ball joints with the gear down. If one shows lots of resistance and one moves very easy the balance is wrong. They should both show about the same amount of rotational resistance. This is just a ball park check. I have one slightly tighter than the other but not much. You also might find, as as I did, that after 20+ years enough wear was showing on the bolts throughout the system that they could use replacing. I replaced all of mine 2 years ago.
  6. RLC - that is one very well written account on how to rig the manual gear. Right on! Thanks for the clear write up! Folks should copy that and put it in their MM or log book for future reference.
  7. My thinking has me going into water wheels up, flaps down and right at the stall beeper when I touch nose high. Slowest speed possible and crack the door before impact. Chances are I'll wind up just like this one swimming but OK. I once knew a formula that equated speed to energy to dissipate and it showed the logarithmic function of speed to energy.10 kts extra was so much more energy but 20 kts more was way up there. Double the speed and quad the energy or something like that. Where are the engineers when you need one :-)
  8. And a pile of white powder in 10 years? :-)
  9. Be interesting if it turns out to be a drone
  10. OH Ya gotta know where A mountain is also :-)
  11. Ya TUS can be a bear but I use Tucson Jet Center and runway 21 Get it 9 times out of 10 if I ask. In and out quick BUT gas is higher priced. The price of being closer to where I need to go in TUS Biggest PIA is the need for the departure clearance but I'm 345 degrees at 8500' and outta there. Bring a sun shade to anywhere down there in the summer. Cockpit gets HOT!
  12. Another item to remember about CO- It combines with hemoglobin hundreds of times easier than O2 does therefore if you have a CO leak in your heater the CO binds faster than O2 to your blood. It gets worse with altitude as the partial pressure of the O2 lessens up high. BIGGEST POINT TO REMEMBER? If you use a pulse/oxymeter to measure your O2 SAT if you have a CO leak your Oxymeter will LIE to you and read perfect O2 SATs when in fact your are going under due to CO and hypoxia. Your pulse meter can't tell the difference between O2 or CO combining on your blood vessels.
  13. You might find a good used one and then save up to have your current one repaired in case the used one takes a dump. Might get you flying sooner. Would like to see pictures of the one you have when it comes off.
  14. Do you want a "new" one or a rebuilt one for less money? I used Dawley for mine to be rewelded when it needed an overhaul. Mine has been on for many years with no issues what so ever. There are others that rebuild them also. What they do is because the regs allow "repairing" stuff they keep just one piece of your old one (say an end plate) and then rebuild making every other piece out of new stock (just like dog houses). You usually get what for all practical purposes is a new muffler for a rebuild price. Now for the can of worms- :-) :-) One big issue with all our mufflers (except the new Powerflow) is that we have what are called "flame cones" inside the can. These are perforated tapered cones welded on the ends of the exhaust tubing inside the can that disperse the hot exhaust gases more evenly around inside. They contribute to more cabin heat availability and keep strong "blow torch" type flame from impinging on the wall of the can and bulging it out (annual inspection item for bulges, sign of imminent failure) (may be what the OP has). There may be some benefit to 100 ' rich of peak here as 1550 degrees might be much stronger and less detrimental to metal as say 1650 or higher at peak EGT. These cones fail with regularity. Usually they break up in small pieces and go out the exhaust pipe harmlessly BUT if one breaks off complete it can block the exit of exhaust gases out of the muffler and hinder engine horsepower to a big extent. Always look up inside the exhaust pipe at annual to see if it is blocked. You can even do it when you change oil or just look around the engine compartment. I use a small boroscope to look around inside the muffler at annual time. One interesting item- if the cones break away and leave the muffler there is no blockage of the exhaust so you'll not really notice anything other then maybe less cabin heat. Now there are IAs that will ding the muffler if these are missing. Why? Because (and many FAA types will support this conclusion) the muffler doesn't then meet its as designed approval therefore the airplane is not airworthy with them missing. Just be aware that some IAs and Repair Stations may take this position and some FAA types have even done ramp checks looking for this very item.
  15. Not any but their references weren't related to another engine- The 172 was directed at night flying around here The Navajo was directed at stretching ones fuel as fuel stops are few and far between The 207 was directed at the reference about density altitude and winds here All were items I mentioned above And I must reiterate that a night time engine out emergency landing out here will most likely not have a good outcome We don't have corn and wheat fields to put it down in. We have rocks of various sizes and shapes.