Andy95W

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Andy95W last won the day on February 4

Andy95W had the most liked content!

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About Andy95W

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Detroit, MI
  • Interests
    A&P, IA, ATP, CFI
  • Reg #
    N--95W
  • Model
    M20C

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  1. Perfect, thanks for the update. Sounds like you have a good mechanic. I'm hoping the other 3 A&Ps were watching, listening, and learning.
  2. I'd do it and stop worrying I was going to break my truss welds on rough strips.
  3. Full throttle gives a slight enrichment to the mixture due to the "economizer" function of the carburetor. Usually doesn't decrease temps much (if at all) due to higher power output = more heat. Probably a dumb question- what airspeed do you climb at? Our airplanes climb at a comparable feet per minute whether at 120-125 or at 100 mph.
  4. The problem is that the cowling is fixed, the engine is not- and it wobbles a lot on start up. It would be a shame to ruin either the cowling aluminum or the carb air box ($$$) because this owner produced part was too stiff. The biggest issue with the accordion design is the wire stiffener that will cut through the rubber fairly rapidly. The steel then rusts which just makes it worse. The question I would have for @GEE-BEE is whether or not the wire is even needed to avoid crushing caused by engine suction through the intake duct. The unsupported distance is 2" or less. EDIT- well, maybe 2-3" distance
  5. I’m not sure if Fred has been around long enough to know about Marauder's girls. At least it meets his criteria for Mooney Aircraft Only tail art.
  6. Richard- you can always try this guy. He did my logos and owns an old M20C. http://www.aircraftstickers.com/
  7. Your baffling really does look pretty good. If you'd like, here are two ideas to seal up in front of #2 a little better.
  8. Looks good, Brice, but it looks like you might be missing the inter-cylinder baffling between your #2 and #4 cylinders. It's difficult to tell based on your photo looking down. The photo below shows a different Lycoming engine, from underneath the cylinder. The O-360 baffle is smaller. EDIT- this is the parts manual for the O-360. Ours are quite a bit smaller.
  9. Andrew ( @Hyett6420) was doing much better about 10 days ago. He was even getting back into exercising and his husband hadn't contracted it at that point. I'm not sure what's been going on since then. Like you, hoping for the best.
  10. If you're talking about the tool that enables you to remove the main springs that go into the wing, you really don't need it. Buy a bunch of cheap washers that are about the thickness of a quarter (1/4 or 5/16" bolt size works well). Or just use a bunch of quarters and go wash your car after the project is done. Push those quarters into the spring. That will keep the spring under tension/extension. That will allow you to remove the spring from the gear leg and reinstall it after you're done. Lower the landing gear and all the quarters will drop out.
  11. Definitely funny! (But still wish you’d post the successful resolution of your problem for the benefit of everyone here.)
  12. Mine is old/new. 1990's vintage paint scheme with the 1960's vintage logo.
  13. I'm with Brian. The extreme #4 CHT really only occurs at what appears to be the climb phase. Cruise temps all seem pretty uniform. Low airspeed causing high CHTs is nearly always baffling. The worst baffling problems I've seen are around the generator, starter, and oil pressure relief valve housing (back behind #3). Following those three, it's down to the seal that mates the lower dog house to the lower cowling and the thick felt pad that mates the dog house to the upper rear case of the engine. Of course that assumes the actual dog house sheet metal is all in good shape, which it sounds like yours is.