kortopates

As a CFI I highly recommend you get the written out of the way before starting training. It's the most effecient and improves your education in the cockpit. I have yet to see the pilot that wasn't delayed in some fashion but not taking care of the written before starting flight training. You do NOT need to find a CFI first to take the written, but you will need a signoff but that's easy. You have many self paced home study programs that will prepare you for the written. Cost vary from what they provide but pick one that is comprehensive to include practice exams and a completion certificate that entitles you to take the written. The most Popular ones are Gleim at cheaper range to King Schools at the more expensive upper end. All of the comprehensive ground school self study programs will provide you with a completion certificate that will enable you to take the written at any approved testing center. But if you have a local community college nearby with a pilot program that is by far your best option and also your cheapest. In a semester you can get the most comprehensive ground School education that goes beyond the exam and for practicaly free. I teach at such a college. Before tsking the exam, besure to Practice the written exam questions until you are repeatedly above 90%; preferably higher. For Each question you get wrong, the pilot examiner is required to quiz you on that topic during your practical; so your practical will go much smoother for you with a good score. With written completed go interview a few CFIs and pick one you think you'll enjoy working with. I would personally suggest an experienced independent instructor that's teaching because they love it over a wet 250 hr CFI teaching only to build the pre-req hours for a flying job. Meanwhile go sign up with AOPA for their free student pilot periodical "Flight training" - I think they'll give you a free 6 months. But you'll want to join for all the great resources they provide student pilots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See https://planeplastics.com/product-category/airplane/mooney/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Neither actually. Those are identical. There is a synthetic that is fully compatible to 5606H you show above. Has some improved properties in addition to not burning. Here is a link to the Royco brand https://www.skygeek.com/royco-782-synthetic-fire-resistant-hydraulic-fluid.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see what you mean! The mid body's went too a different parking brake valve that is downstream past the master cylinders, about under the rear seat. Your earlier one looks like it prevents fluid from going back into the reservoir? No idea when they changed, but more the J so I expect your right about which one Chris has. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 2 independent lines through the parking brake don't interconnect except through a valve mechanism. Depending on which O-rings are leaking it could very well only leak out from one side - not necessarily both sides. I forget exactly, but I recall at least 4 O-rings. Hope that clarifies. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BTW, when the MC is re-installed, be sure to remove that gap between the bracket and the MC fitting with a washer or 2 so that it can't move side to side to prevent any side loading. Probably just one standard -08 washer, plus the thin one behind the cotter pin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you your parking brake had signs of leaking then for sure you should rebuild it with new o-rings. You'll be able to get a kit from LASAR for that and the MC if you want to do that one too. Incidently, leakage in the parking brake will not effect both brakes. There are of course 2 separate lines going through it that don't connect except for the external valve mechanism. If you haven't already, when you bleed and flush, you can switch to the synthetic equivalent of 5606H. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really admire and respect what your doing for your friend and AME!

I frequent a ski area in the winter and never bother with the expensive heated hangar. I just park in reach of electricity and plug in my engine tannis heater. If you don't have that they'll pre-heat your engine on the ramp for you for much less than a night in the hangar. In my mind, the only thing to push me into a hangar is the threat of hail. Snow isn't bad if it's cold powder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where are you? I have a gas powered one with the Mooney specific hardware in San Diego. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The p/n is actually on the plug of the servo which is a little closer. You can also look it up in the Mooney IPC. The p/n is specific to our Mooney's which is what makes them rare. Which model AP do you have? Ah, i see KFC-200, sorry I don't know the pitch servo p/n off hand on that one.

If you have the budget for a panel mount unit which is always on and integrated into the audio panel so you can't miss it, this is what I use which replaced my original clock.

No way that any of the control surfaces could be incorrectly installed, about the only thing that could be done improperly beyond balancing them would be too not use the proper hardware which can be verified visually. Neither effects rigging.

I'd be far more concerned about the mags, but an "inspection 100-150 hrs ago" is ambiguous to me. Are you referring to a 100 hr inspection or a 500 hr/5 yr IRAN? I do the 100 hr inspection annually and always comply the 500hr/5 yr IRAN. Its a false sense of security to assume since you have 2 mags you can run on one just fine. Our engines need both to run satisfactorily. Put another way, loose a mag and you're just one plug or wire away from losing a cylinder and 25% of your power. Remember 2 of those cyl's on the remaining mag are only being fired by the dirtier less efficient bottom plugs. If that doesn't concern you, consider a bad mag is going to cost you much $ and inconvenience away from home. At Savvy where we advocate maintaining most everything on condition, including ignition wires, the mags are the big exception. With mags its best to comply with the recommended 100 hr and 500hr/5yr inspections and IRAN in accordance with L-1363-F (slick mags overhaul manual); especially with the Slick mags. On the other hand if the the last inspection was a full 500 hr IRAN, then you should be fine to do just the recommend 100 hr inspection each annual. Only at engine overhaul would we advocate overhauling or replacing the mags. Economics typically dictates whether you overhaul or replace them when the time comes. But as long as you can economically get through the 500hr IRAN every 500 hr or 5 yrs, there is no need to replace or overhaul them.

Here you go Anthony@Carusoam Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk