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kortopates

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kortopates last won the day on January 4

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About kortopates

  • Birthday January 21

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    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Reg #
    252AV
  • Model
    M20K 252/Encore

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  1. Excellent points and especially #4 but nothing wrong with pitching down till the you feel light in the seat. This is after all what the upset recovery schools teach these days and the ACS no longer makes any statements about minimizing altitude loss. Instead the emphasis is on "immediately recovering from the stall by reducing the angle of attack". No matter how bad a wing might be dropping off in the stall, an immediate push down that makes you light in the seat will very promptly recover back to flying speed with wings leveled and the pilot can transition back to climb attitude to return to the starting altitude. So personally I think its a big confidence booster for those fearful of power on stalls - which is required to the full break these day for private students and whichever the DPE calls for on the Commercial. The other reason for pushing till light in the seat is that folks where focusing on preserving altitude to only get into a secondary stall; usually more violent than the first.
  2. It’s a very amateurish installation to do that. See the JPI installation instructions prohibiting this. Why? The thermocouples produce a very low current with only few millivolts. That makes the wires very sensitive to interference from high voltage ignition wires and high current wires like alternator output cables. The thermocouple wire harness needs to be routed independently without being bundled with other electrical wires else the result is very noisy EGTs and CHTs. Very frustrating to say the least after spending a lot of $ on labor and an engine monitor and get noisy signals because the installer couldn’t follow directions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Here is the website for the guy that does the prop balancing and he is really good. wrote the book on it. He’s retiring though so good luck. Also he work out out Cable airport in SOCAL and Arizona, does travel too, came down to San Diego for a couple of us. www.jfdynamics.com Cell(626) 818-3029 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Three of the 4 EGT wires are being moved, just let the mechanic undo the mess forward of the firewall and re-route them properly. After a job like that i’d half expect to see them bundled with ignition needs too which would need to be corrected as well. But consider if going to this trouble, it could be a good time to upgrade the display head to a modern color 830 through their upgrade program where you return your 730 display. It was costing about $1200 after exchange. It’s a good deal if you have the panel room since it’s bigger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Probably has more to do with how your plugs and lemo switch are wired. i’ve seen many configurations including a switch to allow switching between them which i think is unnecessary. But my set up allows having both my Bose plugged into the Lemo plug and then my mike mask plugged into the mike jack which apparently opens the mike connection on the Bose because i’ve never had any issue communicating with ATC. Certainly don’t need the extra accessory to block the Bose mike. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. You do have to adjust the squelch because the mask mike won’t break squelch as easily as a regular headset - did you do that? But that’s all i need to do and then it works normally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. A plus is that his has 10 years and 300 hrs since the fine damage, so I wouldn’t necessarily eliminate it without a good review of the logs. If the repairs where well done and essentially replacing damage parts and wiring with new it could effectively be in better condition than it’s age suggest. But it’s also very possible it was totaled, sold as scrap and then resurrected as cheaply as possible. One has to review the damage and repairs to find out what is really being offered starting at $75. Plus 30 hrs per year since the fire isn’t much but a recent Top helps with that too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. First apologies to @PeteMc for miss remembering that the service manual was not corrected. But here's the scoop, this was figured out by the Continental engineer that worked the 231 Engine installation for Mooney on site at Mooney. I learned about it when I was taking Continental's A&P maintenance class at Fairhope nearly 2 decades ago so I've forgotten exactly if he said 1" or 1.5" but I've posted this multiple times here over the years and these days enough people have heard this now that I'll just let someone reply - but its being questioned.... After the initial installation was done they were trying to address some reported cooling complaints so they were testing various things. So they learned closing the cowl flaps all the way was really reducing cooling. But they were surprised to discover why, which was because it was causing enough back pressure at the air inlets preventing air from flowing through. The bigger surprise is that it was also disrupting airflow over the prop enough that when eliminated they got something like a 10 kt increase in airspeed (which is probably a bit of an exaggeration). But the point is they weren't expecting the back pressure and resulting turbulence at the air inlets was as disruptive to air flow as they found. There just wasn't enough outflow at the bottom of the cowling to with cowl flaps closed to create the low pressure area below engine to allow the air to move freely through the inlets and down the engine cyl fins into the low pressure area without the cowl flaps open some amount. The 252 doesn't have this issue since even with the large single cowl flap closed both sides of the lower cowling have enough open area to allow air to flow freely through from the top high pressure area and down to the low pressure exit.
  9. Much as been written here about the importance of K cowl flaps, particularly the 231, need to be about an inch open when fully closed else it causes a significant loss in cruise speed as well as cooling. See your service manual. You can use google to find older threads with more info on this.
  10. So sorry to hear about this, just came across the sad news. But glad to hear your getting some help with the treatments. Your upcoming camping trip sounds great but hope it’s more glamping than camping! The Calanques will be beautiful this time of year if that’s where you’re headed. thanks for the update and keep us posted when able. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I don’t really know for a fact but my understanding is that cowling improvements were made to allow the Vne increase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. The whole thread makes zero sense since any A&P knows how to R&R a fuel sender. I doubt there will be any sealant on it either but that too won’t be an issue. More likely the arm will need bending if it’s hanging up. Sometimes removing a sealed inspection panel is helpful to ensure the sender isn’t hanging anywhere along its full arc of travel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Nice. James is also fellow colleague of mine at Savvy Aviation. It would be good time to at least replace the old flexible baffling if not also re-work the aluminum baffling. Glad you caught removing the fuel diverter!
  14. It has to be anhydrous. Anhydrous simply means no water in. Rubbing alcohol is 70% isopropyl and 30% water. You're looking for 99% Isopropyl - there is no such thing as 100%. 90% isn't anhydrous either with 10% water. You can buy the 99% in the gallon from industrial supply outlets or you can buy it from many drug store outlets in pint quantities.
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