kortopates

Pretty much the same wing in all models. Your hand stays at the access panel, often a foot or two away from the rib with the hole you are lining up the stiff tubing to push through. Correct that you typically can't see the hole you are aiming for while your hand is in the hole. I never needed to use an inspection mirror to see where the grommet was - but that is an option. So you'll push it till you hit a stop and then remove hand to peer in to see what kind of correction to make next till you've got it. It's not that hard and you sure don't need to make impossible reaches to the ribs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The whole point of the stiff tubing or piano wire is that you don't need to reach any further than the tubing or wire - just to grab it and push it forward aiming for next hole you want it pass through using a light to see it. Continue to push it through till its at least over the next removed inspection panel where you will move to next, and grabbing it so that you can push it through the next hole. You'll start at one end - either from inside the cockpit going out to the leading edge of the wing or from the wing root where the old power supply was mounted on an inspection panel.

Thank goodness for over 50 years of progress! A modern Mooney POH makes it simple - its all in the speed - and assumes this isn't your first landing, sparing us from telling us how to round out/flare/flair-out....

Why don't we quote current modern references. This is from the FAA's Airplane Flying Handbook. You'll note these days the term Flare has been replaced with the term Round-out. Although some may not care for change after many years of using Flare, but you got to hand it to the folks that updated this handbook for the FAA, since it a more apt name to describe the process IMO. But I am sure for most of us, when we learned to fly it was called a Flare. Or even a "Flare Out" if your old enough to have used Wolfgang Langewiesche like apparently @Hank did (good one Hank!) And Jim, don't give Clarence such a hard time, he was just making fun of us all for trying to make landing a Mooney sound so difficult or special!

Clarence's Piano hinge wire works really well. But you have to real careful pushing the wire through holes with lots of other wires because the sharp wire can damage the insulation on wires and cause shorts. So instead I use Poly Flo tubing (same stuff used for your Pitot and Static lines) to fish wires. Its blunt and will not damage anything and is much easier to pull through everywhere you encounter bends unlike the piano hinge wire. But you'll need to stiffen the first 6' or so by heating with a heat gun. Then you'll have the required stiffness to push the front through a hole from several feet back. You still need to remove all the inspection panels along the wire run path, and then snake the Poly Flo tubing through in sections. (I was actually able to skip a few inspection panels on the second wing since I knew the topography after doing the first wing.) Before I begin I push a knotted end of the wire into the end of the Poly Flo tubing so that its wedged in there tightly and will pull the wire through behind it without the wire slipping back out. Works really fast and doesn't damage anything.

Video links wouldn't work for me, but I wouldn't expect to get anything useful from them. What would be really helpful though is to download your engine monitor data, preferably with a 1 sec data recording rate or sampling rate, and see what the data shows. More specifically, what is leading what. For example, is the FF changes alone triggering the events that EGT follows or could it be MAP, or even RPM fluctuations, that has accompanying FF fluctuations that are followed by EGT fluctuations. You may also need to fly the Savvy Test profile to provide the diagnostic data to enable separating mixture from ignition issues as well. http://content.savvyanalysis.com/static/pdf/SavvyAnalysisFlightTestProfiles.pdf You're probably not going to get much diagnostic value out of a video. But your mechanic is right that its unlikely to be your fuel pump. See where the data takes you.

Get the aeroquip version, much more expensive than the inexpensive version but the cheaper one is too high inside the sump on this engine and wouldn't work right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.1800wxbrief.com/ is now the remaining official DUAT provider and the main source for other second tier app providers mentioned above. This is whom many iPad apps are integrating with in order to activate and close a VFR flight plan with a link on your iPad or smart phone which is far simpler than raising FSS on a frequency.

Looks good. Lube any of the controls now that might be stiff while the access is easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They have been for things like hail damage, but I suspect if both sides are damaged new is the better option. At least he may not need new control weights too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd make sure the unit has the option to download data from a USB port before installing. If not, you can get it upgraded. Otherwise it has very little diagnostic value these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly as @bradp said it! The straight weight oils are known for sticking to surfaces longer than the multi-weight oils and therefore have provided better corrosion resistance to plane that are not flown regularly. You can see this in action by watching the oil level rise on your dip stick as the days progress from shutdown and compare the difference between a single vs multi-weight. On the other hand, frequently flown aircraft aren't as vulnerable to corrosion from sitting and can benefit more from a multi-weight oil that will flow more optimally when cold at startup. Or so goes theory behind it.

I assume you looked up the correct hardware in the Continental IPC? I only say this because a larger washer is used in that position, and the one in your pictures looks about right from my memory. Its there to keep the rod end vertical, (I forget the "why" but could be related to the throttle micro switch aft) . With the proper washer it will hit the hydraulic hose fitting coming off the controller if the fitting is not clocked just right to avoid interference and perhaps that may have been the issue if the controller was removed for servicing not long ago since both hose fittings have to clocked just right re-installing the controller. Anyway, as Clarence @M20Doc said, your maintainer should be able to verify the proper hardware for you. Unfortunately TCM documentation access used to be free to every TCM engine owner, but that changed in just in the last couple years.

One can't blame wear on the starter adaptor do to Camguard. But its certainly a fact that as the starter adaptor wears out, that since it works off of friction, that anything you do to reduce the oil viscosity (the fluids resistance to flow) is going to allow the starter adaptor to slip earlier. A few ounces of Camguard though has a much smaller effect though than going from a single weight oil to a multi-weight oil since the multi-weight oil is going to thicken significantly less at ambient cold start temperatures than its single weight version. So although its true that a Continental should be able to get a few more hours out of its starter adaptor by using a straight weight oil without any thinning agents I personally think it matters little in the big picture where its more important to optimize our oil formula to the true needs of the engine as whole. Thus I would put much greater priority in reducing chance of internal corrosion as the engine sits between flights, which Camguard is designed to do, and oil that reduced high wear at startup which could mean a multi-weight if conditions warranted or changing single weight oils between summer and winter, and avoiding the popular synthetic blend Aeroshell 10-40 because of it high 50% synthetic PAO content which has been shown to add to starter adaptor slipping, as well as have poor anti-corrosion protection, with increased oil leakage as well as result in high copper in oil analysis. When you do need a multi-weight oil Phillips XC multi-weight which is 100% mineral oil (0% PAO) is preferred but its best to combine it with Camguard since the Phillips XC oil alone doesn't offer much in its additive package. But another compromise is Exxon Elite which is only 25% PAO or 75% mineral and has an excellent additive package. RAM has additionally reported that in their experience they see engines that are frequently run do best on the pure 100% multi-weight mineral oil and the engines that are not frequently run do better on a straight weight 100% mineral oil.

As Anthony said, try LASAR as well as your IPC for part numbers since most 252's included the option for dual 28V alternators which included the dual red field switch shown above as well as added circuit breaker for the second alt field, an Over Voltage light next to the added CB, and a dual load meter to monitor each alternators output. They mostly used duplicate identical voltage regulators too, although their was a single integrated voltage regulator option that came out but just for the 28V 252's/Encore's. Of course not all of these will work for your 14V installation but it will gives you the details of how the system was setup and installed.