Favorite penetrating oil

[PT20J]

Curious what people like for a penetrating oil to loosen stuck nuts and such.

I've had pretty good luck with Kroil.

Another mechanic friend says there was a comparison in some magazine years ago and the winner was 1:1 mix of Dexron III ATF and Stoddard solvent.  Apparently, it works even better if warmed.

Skip

[Ross Taylor]

Another Kroil fan here!

Edit to add:    ...and heat, where appropriate.

[MooneyMitch]

It’s Kroil for me ! 

[Mufflerbearing]

Kroil as well.  I've had success with LPS too.

[Hank]

I've had good success with Zep, when it was salemen only. Not sure of the Home Depot version. Haven't needed any the last few years, though--kinda nice!

[GeeBee]

Kroil fan

 

[EricJ]

This guy did a bunch of very interesting, reasonably-controlled comparisons of various penetrating oils, in three different iterations:
 

 

 

TL:DR -  Liquid Wrench Penetrating or Sea Foam Deep Creep, depending on how much of a CB you are.    Also, for large equipment/automotive, heat works better than anything, but that's not always possible, especially on an airplane.   The proper way to use heat is to get it good and hot to break the rust bonds, then let it cool, then remove the fastener.   Lots of people try to remove it hot when it's soft and have a bad time.

I was always a PB Blaster junkie and started using Liquid Wrench after I saw this stuff, and keep some Sea Foam around once in a while, too.    The differences aren't big in my  observation, and sometimes if one doesn't work I'll try another.

The vids are interesting if you have time to kill.



 

 

[carusoam]

Liquid wrench...

Cause I have always used it... since I learned from somebody else...  probably a guy named Dad...

Might be time to use something more modern... 

Adding heat to the hole side, ice cube to cool the bolt... using differential expansion/contraction...
 

Expect that it is a two part challenge... 

1) Penetrate through the crust, down through the interlaced threads...

2) Dissolve the oxidated materials... sand in the threads is a big challenge...  heat helps with the dissolving part...

 

PP thoughts only...

Best regards,

-a-

[Yetti]

2 hours ago, carusoam said:

Liquid wrench...

Cause I have always used it... since I learned from somebody else...  probably I guy named Dad...

Might be time to use something more modern... 

 

 

same

also have this spray stuff that the label is gone from.   From dad.    Great stuff.   Don't know the name.   Smells sweet.

[Cody Stallings]

Was a Kroil guy for a long time.

Had a salesman walk into my shop with a spray can with a corny label on it. He had a bolt he was holding upside down an he squirted some where the head an shank meet an I watched that oil climb up the bolt. It also foams for a bit vs just running off.

Dosent have the Fancy smell like Kroil, an doesn't stink like PB Blaster. 
Better than both in my opinion 

[cferr59]

On 5/6/2020 at 8:57 PM, EricJ said:

This guy did a bunch of very interesting, reasonably-controlled comparisons of various penetrating oils, in three different iteratio

TL:DR -  Liquid Wrench Penetrating or Sea Foam Deep Creep, depending on how much of a CB you are.    Also, for large equipment/automotive, heat works better than anything, but that's not always possible, especially on an airplane.   The proper way to use heat is to get it good and hot to break the rust bonds, then let it cool, then remove the fastener.   Lots of people try to remove it hot when it's soft and have a bad time.

I was always a PB Blaster junkie and started using Liquid Wrench after I saw this stuff, and keep some Sea Foam around once in a while, too.    The differences aren't big in my  observation, and sometimes if one doesn't work I'll try another.

The vids are interesting if you have time to kill.



 

 

I have been using PB Blaster, but it seems like I should switch to Liquid Wrench.  I also have an acetylene torch at home, but I would hesitate to use that on the Mooney...

[Mcstealth]

There's a pretty good funny waiting to be had with the title of this thread. I'm surprised @MooneyMitch hasn't claimed it yet.

Back on topic, I have used Liquid Wrench forever, as a consumer of couse and not professionally. It has worked for me in my limited applications. 

Edited May 8, 2020 by Mcstealth

[MikeOH]

Another Liquid Wrench fan.

My wife would probably divorce me if I tried that Little Rock product...

[Ross Taylor]

Thanks much for the pointer @Freemasm - I placed my order last night!

[MooneyMitch]

On 5/8/2020 at 4:59 AM, Mcstealth said:

There's a pretty good funny waiting to be had with the title of this thread. I'm surprised @MooneyMitch hasn't claimed it yet.

Back on topic, I have used Liquid Wrench forever, as a consumer of couse and not professionally. It has worked for me in my limited applications. 

I was waiting for you to capture......didn’t want to interfere or cause a possible locking of this thread .

[Mcstealth]

On 5/9/2020 at 4:29 PM, MooneyMitch said:

I was waiting for you to capture......didn’t want to interfere or cause a possible locking of this thread .

[Ross Taylor]

@EricJ Kroil is obviously the best because I paid more for it and I always thought it was the best... haha!  That video just ruined my hopes and dreams.  Thanks, buddy. 

[markgrue]

I am a big fan of aerokroil.  I use it a lot on exhaust nuts.  Run the engine a bit to get it hot and then spray it on the threads while it is still hot.  It will suck it up into the threads then when it cools it will usually come off.

 

Mark

[HRM]

On 5/8/2020 at 12:32 AM, Cody Stallings said:

Had a salesman walk into my shop with a spray can with a corny label on it. He had a bolt he was holding upside down an he squirted some where the head an shank meet an I watched that oil climb up the bolt. It also foams for a bit vs just running off.

 

LOL...I thought you were going to say that after the stuff climbed up the bolt, the rusted nut spun off on it's own 

[tmo]

TBH, I was kind of thinking along the same lines...

[dooleypster]

+1 for Kroil.....

[47U]

I grew up on a farm in the mid-west and Kroil was the go-to for rusted/frozen parts.  But, you have to give it some time to work.  How well does it work on aluminum oxide?  I’m finding out.  Project is to replace the cabin door hinge, ship-side half, with a broken lobe (50+ years ago).  Soaked it down two days ago, yesterday the punch and ball peen hammer doesn’t move it.  We’ll see if I have better luck today.  I’d rather replace just the ship-side half, and not take the door all apart to replace both halves.  I’ll probably have to cut the top lobe off so I can put a locking pliers on it.  

tom