tmo

My experience with two different powered wheelchairs was the same as PaulM's - it could somewhat move a C172 on level concrete, but not on grass. I believe they were 2x250W and 24V. My current attempt is a poor man's B5 clone - 2x 500W@24V DC motors with an integrated 1:6 gearbox with a 13T sprocket turning child ATV wheels with 49T sprockets, attached to a platform; front wheel will be 'loaded' with a winch and the contraption will be RC controlled via an Arduino board with a simple sketch to do the differential turning and so on. The next one will be a BLDC powered contraption with tracks instead of wheels and a scoop-like mechanism to hold the nosewheel.

First OPP I had made... I think I paid like $10 for a set of two (two different plastics).

That, partly, explains the price change...

Don't those kerosene heaters produce a lot of moisture in addition to heat? We have a diesel "torpedo" style heater that has a separate outlet for the warmed-up air and another one for the exhaust gasses.

I understood that closed cell foam is used exactly because it does not soak up / retain water.

Did you believe them? I wouldn't, especially WRT flooded batteries, but probably not for the GEL ones either. But I'd believe you. I mean, we're pushing <1C, do we really need to push it differently than a car does? I kind of doubt our voltage regulators are that precise, and flying often is said to be the best way to keep them batteries healthy.

Pull early, pull often?

I just bought a spare KI256, so it might be never, but when I get around to removing vacuum, I plan to replace the pump with the B&C backup alternator. The KNS80 stays put till I do something like 2xIFD or some such.

+1 for Don and his video.

OP, perhaps you should just look around for both J's and K's, and buy the one that ticks all the boxes that need to be ticked... Kind of paraphrasing Woody Allen, I guess...

https://mooneyspace.com/topic/46793-battery-capacity-testing-review-of-dtl150-a-35-battery-capacity-tester

Then there's this: https://mooneyspace.com/topic/46857-79-231-1400-tt-899-smoh-49900/ Pay $50k, spend another $100k to make it yours.

Does a factory rebuild include the turbo and all the ancillaries? Surely some extra money would be needed to re-fit the aftermarket wastegate and intercooler, too.

Not exactly about this particular plane, but I'd start with a list of things "my plane" must have - either already installed and working fine, or with a known estimate of cost to install, and go from there. My list of "options" started with a WAAS GPS, a working, coupled autopilot, and an engine monitor. The plane I ended up buying had the first two already installed, and I had an estimate of cost to install an EDM900, which I promptly purchased and have been getting the runaround about installation ever since (IOW, be careful when planning). No corrosion / sound airframe was a non-negotiable starting point. I'm not sure I'd spend $140k on a plane you'll need to drop another $10k on immediately, for ADS-B; I'd argue for TKS over LR tanks (the stock 72USG is enough for me) but that probably is too much to ask of a M20K you want to buy now (although there was one with TKS for sale in Germany, I think, not too long ago, see: https://www.planecheck.com?ent=da&id=57426).

No, only if you use the VOR for navigation; but it is literally free (I have a KNS80 and a GNS430W and do dual checks) so why not.

It gets worse, much worse: https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/183669 - a TB20 with 4POB, all perished; quoting from the accident report (from Spanish equivalent of the NTSB): The investigation has determined that this accident was caused by the loss of control of the aircraft following the loss of part of the left wing after an impact with a vulture. The TB20 is not a light sport plane with a wimpy wing...

Was it possibly traffic known to them, and a drone in the sense of an e.g. Predator, not a wimpy quadcopter from HF?

I thought the TIT limit on a TSIO-360-LB in a vanilla M20K is 1650F, which I round down to 1500F for peace of mind. Should I lower my threshold, or did I miss something in the POH?

Some would argue that there are quite a few pounds of useful load to be gained by removing old, unused stuff, including wiring. But in principle one can leave the disconnected wiring tucked away behind the panel.

Just removing the device is no work; but you probably also want to remove the rack it was installed in, which is more work. Which leads to wanting to remove all the wiring that is terminated at the rack, and this is where the cost lies, as there could be really lots of it, going to many other units in the panel and elsewhere (antenna, etc). Do it right, don't defer...

I use both of mine once a month, to do the dual VOR check...

For the majority of the fleet, wouldn't the Vintage Aircraft Replacement and Modification Article (Varma) program help? https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/faa-program-enables-using-some-off-the-shelf-parts-in-certificated-aircraft/ I think it was discussed here recently as well.

Thse are two different charts - the Conti one is "overspeed" and the Lyco one you posted is "rated" and only refers to a RPM from which you should compute overspeed - the formula for which is possibly on a previous or subsequent page. Thank you for the Conti one, will make me sleep better, I get a slight overspeed above 2700 at times as well.

Can you actually fail an IR check ride at that point though? I understood the DPE is to test one's ability to fly under IFR, not taxi around an airport. I guess if you failed to stop at an intersection you were not cleared to cross, yeah, but for a checklist?

Hey, cut them some slack, at least they didn't just pull the chute!