Marc_B

@PT20J do you know if the o-rings in the LASAR kits are viton or just nitrile?

@Wingover Talk to Aerographics in Loveland, CO. They have several options in material to print. Thicker lexan, thinner label. They can custom match to your specs and they always turn out looking good. I’ve used them for nose gear placards and fuel selector placard. https://www.aerographics.com

I don't have the install manual like @LANCECASPER...no clue where you'd get that? But I have the FMS pages (attached). Not sure if this is what you're looking for @MarkW? (This should have been put in your POH at time of install) Monroy Aux Tanks M20C-K FMS.pdf

@PT20J is the "SD Save" only found on the latest update?? My config doesn't show an option for "SD Save" (I'm still on 20.42). edit: I suspect this must be a new feature for 21.02 given the vertical line on the left to annotate changes...

The AC inverter for the overhead lights is a small (1.5-2") cube...ERG LPS28-3-3P. https://lasar.com/electrical-instruments/power-inverter-lps28-3-3p Different from the aft avionics bay.

It seems unnecessary to remove the door and would only be helpful when cleaning off the old adhesive. But you can just cheap plastic drop cloths to cover your paint and the door opening to prevent material from being flung into your aircraft or dripped on the paint. But you DO remove the interior door panels. You could also disconnect the door hold open arm if you wanted more space.

Be sure to get recent feedback on the paint shop you choose. Previous performance isn't reflective of your results. Even on shops that have historically gotten good review here on Mooneyspace...

@Ryan ORL that’s interesting. Perhaps my dial to Mooney PN is off? From a M20J IPC it looks like dial Mooney 880024-005. Can anyone with same PN confirm dial face? Was yours possibly replaced with something that looked similar but wasn’t the same??

@Greg_D I think this may be the thread you're referring to:

@billy hellcat They make white and black U-channel wing root seal. Easy enough to replace. If you look close, the top side of the horizontal to vertical stabilizer once had a seal in it as well...but it's soooo tight that the skin was probably installed from the factory with it. So just use a piece of U-Channel for the leading edge root of the horizontal stabilizer area, and then use some RTV such as Dow Corning 732 white or clear on the top sides...

@Alan Maurer When I was dealing with this GeeBee's thread was super helpful. Doesn't sound like you need to address anything more than the strobe light switch, but you can see what both GeeBee and I (mine is similar) saw in the headliner with removing the EL panel. Strobe was attached to the plate..but the split landing and taxi lights were separate. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/45953-long-body-overhead-light-panel-install-update/ From link above: My light panel for the overhead had become warped and the backlighting was not working. A little investigation revealed it was an electro-luminescent panel powered by an AC inverter in the overhead. I checked the inverter power output and it was good. Further investigation revealed several interesting facts. 1. The life span of these panels is about 2000 hours and since the panel is continuous power, if the airplane has more than 2000 hours, the panel is near EOL. 2. The inverter is simply glued in the overhead with RTV 3. There are two type of switches and panels. The MM makes mention of only the newer panel where all switch/breakers except the landing and taxi light switches snap into and are retained by the EL panel. (The taxi and landing lights are simple switches with CBs on the main electrical panel) The older type panels have the switch/breakers mounted on an aluminum plate and the EL panel is attached to the aluminum panel. Here is a picture. As you can see my panel is warped which occurs at EOL due to excessive heat build up from the AC power. You can also see the cutout in the aluminum panel to allow the landing and taxi light switches which are retained by screws in the overhead. Also for reference: Screws for overhead panel: PS6C8DL01BK MS35206-230 6-32 thread ½” MS35214-27 6-32 thread ½” black brass INVERTER: The inverter is located in the overhead headliner very close to the EL panel (2 to 3 inches away). As I recall I had to drop the headliner to access the inverter. From my notes (2008, my how time flies) the inverter is LP105A in the parts manual and is an ERG LPS28-3-3P. I have attached the specs below. It is probably a commercially available part but I just ordered both parts from Dan at LASAR for convenience. I believe the inverter was about $100.00. It is fairly easy to check the inverter. From the spec sheet for the part number an LPS28-3-3P will take in 28VDC and output 120 Vms. A DMM on the AC scale will show if you have voltage on the pins on the connector. If you have voltage but no light the inverter is good and the panel is bad. Something less than 120 AC will cause the panel to be dim. At the time I repaired my EL panel, I ordered a back up inverter from ERG and they mentioned it was obsolete and no longer produced...they had 3 pieces at the time and Lasar also seemed to have some. Not sure if this is still the case.

Curious if there is a source for guide wheels for bifold doors? Current is 3-1/8” x 2” W with 3/4” axle. Preferred metal bearings to roll quieter and easier. I can’t seem to find a source. Any suggestions?

In my experience it’s usually pick one!

For sun-shields on the ramp and to leave in the back windows when traveling, it's hard to beat the price of using home depot reflective insulation. Cut a piece to oversized length and use painters tape to hold up on the outside of the window and do your rough cut with scissors on the outside...then do your fine tuning to get fit and tension right on the inside and they stay put easily! For long trips sometimes I keep these in place in the back windows, especially when travelling away from the sun and it's off to the side behind me.

Kinderfluff...but they don't always stick so you have to use the visor, seat belt, stick in edge of window trim, etc to get them to stay. Not sized to windows so not a complete solution, but easy to move around to any window or windshield.