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Everything posted by 47U

  1. I took this picture 4 years ago when I replaced my down lock block. You ‘might’ be able to fish a contact cleaner straw up to the switch contacts. @Igor_U has the right idea. I think you’d want to be on jacks so you can exercise the switch while applying the contact cleaner. Whether you can get enough spray into the contacts without removing down lock block is unknown, but might worth trying. If you do have to remove the down lock block, you’re already on jacks. Here’s the other side showing the switch mounting screws to the down lock block switch bracket.
  2. GeeBee has the right answer, of course. But, I’ve seen a stainless steel hose clamp cover an unused EGT probe hole in an exhaust riser. It might leak a little, but some EGT probes leak a little, too. Try using a center punch to put a dimple in the band. Place the dimple over the hole. That might help seal up the hole. If you want no leaks, get some automotive exhaust header tape. Amazon sells some tape rated up to 1800F. Cut a piece off, cover the hole and hold it on with a hose clamp. Don’t beat me up. I’m just thinking out loud.
  3. Those are the same #4 screws the doghouse uses… there’s tinnerman nuts on the other side. Aluminum tape would be fine if you made sure it was well adhered. You wouldn’t want it coming loose and getting caught up in any linkage, or falling out of the sky on some unsuspecting soul.
  4. I have a cover plate on the back wall of the nose wheel well. I’m guessing factory since the paint overspray is the original base color. Canvas cloth patches are sometimes used to close out cavities. Use contact cement to attach.
  5. An alternative to repairing a radio out of production for 10 years, Trig recently received FAA TSO on their stack nav comm, same height as the SL30, 1.3” high.
  6. The EGT probes in my (now removed) Westach analog gauge were not robust. So far, the E.I. EGT probes have been solid. Does it matter how far down the riser, away from the cylinder head, the probes are placed? Further away = less heat?
  7. I had the carb air temp input to the FP-5 when I installed it almost 10 years ago. I put in the UBG a couple years ago when TSO’d probes for the Westach analog were no longer available, but i didn’t add any other function modules to the UBG at that time. And you’re correct, I used the piggyback ring CHT probe under the factory bayonet fitting on #3 cylinder. If the ring probe is wrapped in some fire sleeve, the temperature reads right inline with the other three cylinders. After overhaul and break-in of my #3 cylinder last year I discovered that I want more data in my downloads. E.I. says that I can add a fuel flow module for data input to the UBG and keep the FP-5, too. I hadn’t considered oil temp and pressure modules as a priority, but you’re right, you can’t have too many probes. Besides, they’re a good cross-check with the factory analog gauges. Thank you for your input.
  8. From the original owner… wow. What experience A&P are you? Military? Airlines? Regardless, you can figure this out. I would suggest that first you get yourself a set of gear tools and get the gear rigging verified. After that, use the search function and ask questions. You’ll be fine. Vintage Mooney’s are quirky, but not rocket science. We need pictures… CONGRATS!
  9. Which temperature would be more useful in the data download; OAT, or carb air temp? I’ve got an EI UBG-16. To gain a more complete picture in my downloaded data, I’m adding modules for RPM, fuel flow, and MP. I was going to move my carb air temp from the FP-5 to the UBG, or would OAT be more advantageous and leave the carb air temp where it is?
  10. You’re In Alaska? That might take some serious sleuthing… Nice paint, by the way. Got any more pics?
  11. FlightAware shows the last sortie in 1999, 22 years ago, in California. Now the airplane is in the Detroit area? Regardless, I’d be concerned with inactivity since there’s (apparently) no recent flight activity. No ADSB, perhaps? NTSB says a gear-up in 1967. Probably not an issue today, if properly documented. Logbook entries have evolved quite a bit from that era. If it’s corrosion free, it certainly could be a resurrection project… for the right price. In reality, it might be worth more in salvage value. Just the engine and fuel tanks could push restoration into the 50 amu range, and you haven’t touched the avionics, interior, or paint.
  12. Note that the VSI is above the yoke shaft instead of in the ‘standard’ position under the altimeter. The DG is probably too long and would interfere if it were installed over the yoke shaft. Successful installations (like gmonnig’s post above) raise the DG vertically in the panel for clearance. Replacing the pilot’s vintage ‘bent’ panel often incorporates longer standoffs at the top which improves the geometry. LASAR had a kit for this (thanks Dan!). If this is a DIY project, making the panel out of plexiglass is useful to verify clearances before production of the panel in metal. I had to recut my panel when my template for the Aspen flush mount bracket had inadequate clearance to the yoke ball mount. My Dad used to call that, “Turning out scrap.” So, don’t be me!
  13. Garmin makes exceptional nav comm radio, if it fits in your panel. The GNC 255 is 1.65” high, vs the SL30 and TX56A at 1.3” high.
  14. My oversight… I should have included the price. You shouldn’t have to track that down. Both Aircraft Spruce and Sarasota are in the 4.1 amu range… the 24 volt version is about 4.3 amu…
  15. When the top coat is ancient and starts to flake, I don’t think there’s much else you can do except bite the bullet. None of this red stuff is making it into the tank pickup. The fuel selector drain, fuel pump filter, gascolator, and carb screen all remain debris free. But, this stuff gets caught under the tank sump drain seal, which sometimes takes a little shop air to clear the o-ring. My tanks have never had a complete strip and seal, only field repairs, and (essentially) don’t leak. My left tank has one rivet with a brown stain, but it’s not wet. My right tank has a couple of screws on the wing walk tank access panel that will stain when the tank is full. Regardless, I’m budgeting for a full strip and reseal because this is only going to get worse.
  16. Trig has received FAA TSO approval on their stack nav comm, TX56A. It’s the same height as the SL30 (1.3”), advantageous for vintage models with vertically challenged radio stacks. It comes in 12 and 24 volt configurations, and 8.33 frequency spacing, if desired. The SL30 has been out of production for how long… 10 years now? The Trig might be worth considering if you’re upgrading your panel and need a short-height nav comm to save space for that big-screen GPS you’ve been drooling over. (I have no association with Trig Avionics.) https://www.trig-avionics.com/product/stack-nav-com/
  17. I think this (hidden behind the yoke) is a VAL INS 429, which has glide slope (not TSO’d, but ‘meets TSO’). The registration shows ‘Quiet Technologies’ as the owner… is Phil still around here?
  18. Maybe it’s an estimated shipping date???
  19. That looks like the same cable as used for carb heat on the O-360 aircraft. I sent my carb heat cable (just the knob and piano wire, I didn’t remove the cable sheath) to Dan at LASAR and he repaired it by welding (silver soldering?) a new piano wire onto the shaft on the knob end. Be careful to not loose the lock-ball when you pull the knob out of the housing.
  20. Fuzzy brain… I’d better edit that, huh. Thank you…
  21. I found two references in Air Force tech data in my archives, (no restrictions on public release). From the tire T.O. (4T-1-3), reference pertinent to tires serviced with air: From a T.O. on an aircraft which specifies the tires are serviced with nitrogen (the tire pressure is in the mid-200 psi range, depending on gross weight): At the risk of public math, per the 4T, a change of 10 degrees on a 250 psi tire serviced with air would be about 5 psi. Per the aircraft T.O., a 10 degree change on a tire serviced with nitrogen is about 6 psi. Regardless, if QA finds your tire is more than 5 psi high or low from what it is supposed to be, you failed the inspection.
  22. Same set up for the front as the rear. Clips are attached to the floor, in front of the wing spar.
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