milotron

My cowl plugs have little flags that stick up in the front and can be seen from the cockpit. Also, I always pass the cord UNDER to the prop as the cord can fall between the spinner and cowl and has gotten caught and bent the TKS nozzle.

The way that I was told was to use the enhanced IR satellite page and determine the 'color' of the temperature at that point. Using winds aloft, find that temperature accompanying a wind data barb and that altitude would be the tops. This is an inexact and tedious process and of all of the things Foreflight needs is a better, quicker way of showing this information.

Thanks @ilovecornfields he twin vs single aspect comes from me deciding if/what I might need to upgrade to. KLRDMDs comment on lots of HP feeds that. Reading comments on the [gasp] Cirrus forum is similar to your procedure. The turbo is a given for myself in any case. I tend to do the same realizing the TKS has a minimum recommended speed of 120KIAS if I recall.

Question for those with suitably equipped aircraft: When climbing or descending through conditions that are likely to produce ice do you climb with TKS running and a higher rate of climb ( lower air speed ) or higher speed and more modest vertical speed? More powerful twins will climb through the icing layers at 2000fpm or more minimizing exposure, but we can't go that fast. Same question for descent, but more often than not we are committed to a fixed glide slope so don't have the latitude. Interested to hear the strategies for going through these layers. Still weighing the twin vs single dilemma. Thanks!

I am pretty sure the system in my 1981 M20K flows on the ground if you turn it on. I had it on the other day and know that it flows at 4000'. Mine will also maintain pressure if the valve is left on and nothing connected. Also, the gauge in my neighbours M20K was stuck at 1200psi, regardless of the tank contents. Do you know the tank is full?

This know is just a fancier control replacing the lever that used to be there in previous years. It should only turn about 90 degrees at most with limited range. Sounds like the cable is broken or the knob is not engaging the mechanism anymore. My overhead vent knob did this last month and needed reseating with a tiny allen key.

He hasn't flown for over a year, assuming we are speaking of the same individual.

I haven't seen the guy in awhile but will get details when I do. It was(is) a Columbia 350, up high, east bound only and waaay LOP. I agree it must been a helluva tail wind, but have no reason to call him a liar either.

Does the Lycoming rebuild include the turbo and accessories? It doesn't note it while the TSIO360 listing does.

Try living in Canada. We almost have no choice but to import from the US as 95% of the inventory is in the US! Considering what we have to do to import to Canada, I would think that importing into US would be easier. Canada seems to have additional requirements.

I know those were replaced just before I bought this aircraft. Likely that was the cause too. Thanks for your comments.

Thanks. I will check that. (knock on wood ) the airframe seems pretty good and TKS has been there since 1995. It is messy though!

Hey, I came back today from flying through some icy clouds. TKS did what it was supposed to do. After shutdown I always open the oil breather for 20 minutes or so to let the water vapour vent and noticed quite a bit of TKS fluid around the engine and items on top of the engine. How bad is this for the engine? Is the fluid corrosive? Do I have an issue with my prop slinger causing the engine to inhale so much fluid? Thanks, Iain

Trim wheel on my K is wobbly also and would like to know how this turns out... easy 1/3 to 1/2" movement at the end of the wheel. This is definitely not chain slop; it is in the bushing/bearing/axle tolerances. There was mention of a roll pin in @yetti s link. Maybe that helps iain

My Kx165 did exactly this 3 months ago. I replaced it with the only other operational 14V KX165 in the world at the time... I haven't had mine repaired yet, and don't know the failure mode, but swapping displays from the known good one did nothing. It had done this in the past but always came back to life. I am assuming a capacitor or something finally completely dried out. Do you still get actual radio reception? Mine made 'sounds' but nothing transmit or received. iain