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About MikeOH

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  • Location
    KPOC - Brackett Field, Pomona, CA
  • Model
    '70 M20F

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  1. Familiar with 1 through 13...doesn't really address my confusion, I'm afraid. Not worried about 'wearing a step' due to not changing RPM. Trying to understand how much time at elevated temps is going to appreciably affect cylinder life. Put another way: How many hours at elevated (400s kind of temp) does it take before a cylinder is broken in? How are those hours any different, as far as affecting longevity, than operating at elevated temperatures after break-in? I've fought moderately high temps since I bought my M20F over two years ago. #2 would run up to 425 on climb out on a hot day. With new baffles that number is down to just over 400 when it's hot out. I'll pull power to keep the temps down, but someday I may need full-power and backing off won't be an option. The way everyone talks, it sounds like running at 425 for even a few minutes is HORRIFIC I'm NOT talking about cruising for hours at high CHTs. Now, I'm beginning to wonder how true that really is... if running for HOURS at 450 during break-in is okay and, presumably, doesn't destroy cylinder life, why is running 400-410 for a 15 minute climb on the occasional hot day such a problem?
  2. The "#3 runs very hot.." thread has me wondering... There was a reference in that thread to Mike Busch saying 450 was actually okay during break-in! My understanding was that anything much over 400 needs to be dealt with ASAP as some large percentage of the aluminum's strength is gone. The needing to deal with it ASAP suggests this very damaging to the cylinder; like it's going to take hundreds of hours off the life of the cylinder. Seems there is evidence that this is true: cylinders that are run hot don't last. So, how is it that high temps during break-in are okay? Seems to me that if it doesn't break-in over only a few hours, you are taking a TON of life off your brand new cylinder. Okay, expert metallurgists, explain this to me, please.
  3. Ideally, you want the filter as close to the source of noise as possible/practical. Much better to kill the noise at its source than filter out its effects at the susceptible components. Mid-wire may well work, as it did for Richard, but technically the wire from the beacon to the filter is still radiating noise.
  4. Rags, While I hadn't noticed any symptoms, I had this happen to ONE stud on my #2 cylinder. I spotted it after pulling the cowling for a routine check (I try and do this every 25 hours). Please check that the studs are properly torqued in the head; in my case the threads in the aluminum head were stripped! That's WHY the nuts backed off; the studs would NOT support the tension for the required torque. I had to heli-coil the head to fix the issue.
  5. The status of the Mooney factory NEVER entered into my thought process when buying my Mooney.
  6. Stripping wire with dikes is poor practice regardless of wire gauge; too easy to nick and weaken the wire. Crimp plus solder is like fingernails on a chalkboard!!! It hurts to hear! That is just not a good idea if reliability is a concern. Have you gotten away with it? Sure. Question is, for how long? Do you want the 10 ppm failure rate or the 1000 ppm one? A properly crimped connection will NOT get 'black stuff' under it; it is mechanically fused and gas tight. A soldered connector has corrosion issues due to entrapped flux residue (likely activated, exacerbating the problem), embrittlement/crystallization on top of the fatigue failure mode.
  7. Get the left tank down to 1/2, or less. Get a camera, or some way to view, in the tank. Then take a hose to the top of the wing and see if any water starts leaking in.
  8. SMD is a whole different situation; early days of SMD were fraught with low yields and poor reliability, but not related to the vibration issues associated with soldered stranded wire. Even a properly soldered stranded wire to a RIGID connection point (e.g. a wire ring terminal) is just asking for long term reliability issues. A properly crimped (gas tight) connection is FAR superior to a soldered one. There is ALWAYS a stress point where the flexible, non-soldered, portion of the wire meets the portion of the wire where the solder HAS wicked. In a high vibe environment (e.g. an aircraft) time is going to fatigue that interface. BWTHDIK, just another 40+ year EE.
  9. Replaced all my worn out plugs about a year ago with the same massives; was tempted to try the fine wires but I wasn't having any issues with fouling, so I just went with what was, and still is, working. Looks like a good decision
  10. That's hardly the owner produced part scenario being discussed. If you can buy the EXACT part number, I don't see a problem, either.
  11. Replace/rebuild bank balance would be my guess!
  12. So, how is this development going to affect insurance? @Parker_Woodruff
  13. Hmm, which one do you believe if they disagree? Better buy a THIRD one
  14. To expound on what Carusoam just posted, and establish myself as a heretic... I fly in busy SoCal airspace so you'd think I'd love ADSB, but I haven't been all that impressed. I've had ADS-B IN via Scout for over two years and thought it might have better performance after installing the TailBeacon in late December for the OUT requirement. Meh, not so much. ATC point-outs commonly aren't showing up, and I've noticed rather large discrepancies of position on my Foreflight display vs. where the traffic is out the windscreen! I'm not about to change my 'head on a swivel' policy! And, it's worthless in the traffic pattern (actually a hazard if you've got your head down looking at screen when in a traffic pattern).
  15. Hmm, I'm in Southern California....what kind of pizza?