47U

https://mikesavionics.com/ I sent my NAV121 to MIke’s to have a frequency gear replaced. It’s been a solid radio. The local shop was overwhelmed with ADSB installs at the time so I sent it down to Mike. I also have a NAV122, but it’s no longer in the panel. I kept the NAV121 instead since I have GS on another nav/com. I considered getting the 122 fixed and selling it, but it had been repaired in the local shop a couple times and I just don’t trust it. I guess I could sell it for parts, but it’s around 40 years old.

This thread from 2017 - 2019 explored several repair/replacement avenues, including a new part from Mooney. My ‘63 C has a metal trim panel, I’d search all the regular salvage places (Loewen Mooney Salvage) to start, to see if one of those is available. Might be a needle in the haystack... The placard is in stock at Aerographics.

The tug in combination with the proposed tow bar is carrying half the weight of the tow bar, right? The other half of the tow bar weight is on the nose gear. Incidentally, the weight on my C’s nose gear coming out of the factory was 474 lbs.

https://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/37949-img-3033jpg/

There needs to be some amount of tongue weight on the ball of the trailer dolly so the tires will have traction. I’m sure that adaptations could be designed and implemented, but then the price point may be approaching a purpose-built aircraft mover. The product description says it weighs 110 lbs. Is that enough weight by itself to provide traction to the wheels? The working load weight limit is 3,500 lbs. Certainly it has the capacity in that regard. Now I’m curious to hear what tug owners think. How much weight does it take so the tug wheels have traction?

I would agree that fine wires are optimum for performance and longevity (cheaper in the long run), but the comptroller gets a say, too. I’ve got a BY on the shelf going in my lower #4 next time I’ve got the cowling off. All those pesky screws. Happy to hear Pilot Coyote has provided an endorsement.

AC 43-9C is a good review on maintaining required records. Para 11. d., in particular. https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43-9C_CHG_2.pdf 11. DISCREPANCY LISTS. a. Before October 15, 1982, issuance of discrepancy lists (or lists of defects) to owners or operators was appropriate only in connection with annual inspections under part 91, inspections under § 135.411(a)(1), inspection programs under part 125, and inspections under § 91.217. Now, § 43.11 requires that a discrepancy list be prepared by a person performing any inspection required by parts 91,

In the back of the parts manual is a cross reference from old to new part nubmers. The new part number for the short-style arm is 913020-2. I’ve found the part number search on controller.com to be useful. Use the ‘starts with’ option because there are variations in databases, but it appears there might be a couple available in salvage yards. I’d check with Paul Loewen, too.

These two panels, unless you have a one-piece belly panel and the original riveted panel was removed. Don’t loose any of the washers centering the forward end of the actuator in the mount. Sabermech posted a picture of the belly access with the one-piece belly panel. THAT’S the way to go.

There’s a change to the location of the ‘T’ in the static plumbing in M20-43. Not sure if it applies to the G, but some C, J, and K serial numbers are included. Not sure why the G and F are not listed in the applicability. https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/4147179/technical_documents/service_instructions/sim20-43.pdf

Yeah, not pretty. I’m guessing the duct (SCEET, at the time?) was up against the line and started the corrosion. Logs say the SCAT was put in about 25 years ago, so it took a long time for the corrosion to eat through the tube wall. I was able to get the roto flare in there so I sectioned out the corroded length with a union and B-nuts. It’d be a lot of work to replace the right-side fuel line all the way to the selector valve. Probably have to replace it with a hose, instead.

Hope it’s not this... A good reason to pull the interior during the annual inspection.

Yes urgent. I was changing out the prop oil line (per the AD, 10 years ago) and found the aft hole in the generator mount broken. It had been welded and broke again. The prop line adel clamp hid the crack. Dan (LASAR) sold me a new generator mount, much beefier thickness. Check the Lycoming manual for case bolt torque specs. It’d be a bad thing to warp the mating surface and create an oil leak, or worse, induce a crack in the case.

If you can find a Mil Spec keyed switch, I’m in the minor mod camp. I looked all over and didn’t find one. A keyed switch would only defeat the starter, unless you found one with multiple poles that the P-leads are also wired through. Even so, it’s not rocket science to unground a P-lead, keyed switch or not. I’m not sure, is it even possible to hand-prop the injected and/or 6-cylinder airplanes? I decided that locking my cabin door would be sufficient, and strict adherence to the shut-down checklist to double check all three (left/right/master) switches are in the ‘down’ position.

After I replaced my left mag with the Surefly, I was also looking at the Electroair. I couldn’t fit in my panel. My avionics guy told me that lots of twins have the mags controlled by toggle switches. The Citabria, too. I did some searching online and read that toggle switch-controlled mags is common in the RV community. I even found a paper with schematics. Here’s my preferred solution. All switches are Mil-Spec standard parts. Major alteration you say? Talk to your A&P/IA. I think this can be approved as a minor mod. Schematically, it’s basically (key word) the same as m