PT20J

Maybe it is the pressure caused by air load on the flaps. Try putting the flaps down on the ground and pulling up on them to simulate the air load and see if that makes it leak.

It's certainly not mislabeled. But it could well be an obsolete part superseded by a newer part, or simply discontinued. This happens all the time especially with parts that are 41 years old.

How much current do you need? My Batteryminder puts out about 5A@ 28V and runs my glass panel with minimum battery discharge.

It looks like the current Chicago Miniature 28V bulbs are either a 7387 (3 mm pin spacing) or a 7839-2 (2.5 mm pin spacing). https://cml-it.com/us/products/lamps-signalisation/bi-pin/pin-abstand-254mm/ International Avionics makes the annunciator panel. You could call them to verify. https://www.internationalavionics.com

That should be a Sigma-Tek 169CL1-8 Volt / Amp Cluster Module. If no one here has one, you could watch eBay and the aircraft salvage places. You might have to buy a whole cluster, but it's probably only a few hundred dollars.

The description sounds like a damaged Saf-Air drain.

One other thought: When was the last time you checked the suction screen in the sump? There might be some carbon in there reducing the flow rate slightly that might have an effect on oil pressure. Draining the oil might have migrated some carbon to the sump where it was picked up in the screen. This is just a spitball thought, though.

https://www.saf-air.com/products/oil-valves/oil-valve-chart.html Not sure what you mean by stripped. If the threads are damaged in the sump, it might be a bigger issue. But this is unlikely unless it was removed and cross threaded.

You are still in the normal range, but something is somewhat different. If it were mine, I'd just watch it, and if it doesn't get worse, I'd see what happened after the next filter/oil change. If you are worried about it, you could just change the filter and see if that makes a difference since that is the only part that was changed.

I believe they are Magnesium. Use plastic media if blasting for paint removal. Refinishing instructions are in the Cleveland manual. AWBCMM0001-12.pdf WBtech.PDF

A quart every four hours is a pretty big leak. I like @Fritz1 idea. You might try spray baby powder if you don't have the developer.

Get some duct seal from the hardware store. It works great for sealing openings like the wire pass through to the tailcone.

That's always been the problem: Most work, some don't, no one knows why.

Check the schematics in the service manual. The p-leads should be the same and they should be shielded wire to reduce radiated RF which can get in the radios. I wonder if someone added some sort of filter because or radio noise? The capacitor in the mag should be sufficient. If yours isn't shielded, I would replace the p-lead with a proper one. Bogart is one source.

It is impossible to seal everything. I keep a couple of bait stations in the hangar and a couple of ultrasonic devices plugged in and sometimes I've tossed a peppermint oil repellent bag in the baggage compartment. So far, I haven't had an issue.

If you are stranded away from home and cannot find a link, I don't see why a temporary repair could not be made using some .020 safety wire in place of the clip.

It's really hard to tell without measuring, but it looks like the master link pins might not be parallel which may be why the clip came off. I don't even know if you can buy just a clip, but I would get an entire new link just to be safe. I think #25 is quarter inch pitch and most bike chains are half inch pitch. But, I agree with Eric that it there is nothing "aircraft" special about it. You might just have to call around to find the part. Worst case you can order it from a chain supplier.

www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net does mine.

There are three types of fasteners used on the cowling: 1) 10-32 screws at the front of the top cowling. These screw into nut plates on the lower cowling. You can use nylon plain washers on these to protect the paint if you wish. 2) Small (2700) Camlocs on the sides of the upper cowling that mate with receptacles on the lower cowling. These should have a split washer on the inside under the pin to keep them from coming completely out. Often these get lost and some people remove them so that the Camlocs can be completely removed to make the top cowling easier to remove. 3) Large (4002) Camlocs at the rear of the upper and lower cowlings that attach to receptacles on the fuselage. These should be captive and are difficult to change without special pliers.

As I understand it, the difference in the battery time specifications is partly due to the fact that requirements are different for TSO (GI 275) vs non-TSO (G5) instruments. However, it takes a lot more current to run a GI 275 than a G5. According to the installation manuals, the GI 275 draws 0.75A @ 14V and the G5 draws 0.2A @ 14V. That nicer display, brighter backlight, and additional interface capability isn't free. On all the units, turn the backlight down as far as possible when running on battery.

Auto paint stores have a hand held guns for color matching. If there is part of the panel you can remove to take into the store, that would be the easiest. If not and there is a store close to the airport maybe you could work some kind of a deal to have them come out to the plane. I might also call the shop again and ask them where they bought the paint and then talk to that store directly.

The repair keeps the cowl flap hinges from hitting muffler. But, the cowling still rocks up and back putting it slightly out of alignment with the spinner after flight although it lines up fine when first installed. I contacted Paul Loewen because I heard that LASAR had some fix that no one currently there remembers. He said that Mooney used floating receptacle Camlocs and his fix was to replace some with fixed receptacles. But, according to the IPC Mooney used floating receptacles on M20Js early on, then switched to fixed and then went back to floating. Go figure. Sure enough mine are fixed. I compared the installed receptacles and studs with new and they don’t seem worn appreciably. Paul’s other suggestion was to install a couple of 10-32 screws with nut plates at the bottom of the lower cowl. I’m trying to decide if it’s worth the trouble or to just leave it alone.

I believe that Garmin uses a Cygnet CA3112-G. I've seen pictures of it on a Beech yoke but not on a Mooney. Do you have a picture of the installation? Thanks.

I stand corrected

Yes, B-K used the same switch forever. That’s what was in my KAP 150.