Ragsf15e

I’m still wondering if they meant this year...

That definitely sucks. Sorry to hear. On the other hand, I recently had a Bose A20 start going intermittently on the microphone. Free shipping, free repair, free return within one week. No questions asked. The A20 was purchased in 2015 by a different person.

And while you’re using the soapy water inside the cabin, try not to leave the steel tubes, spar or other expensive things real wet and covered with carpet, tape, etc...

They all leak a little, and usually it’s no biggie. Sometimes is pretty hard to know for sure where it’s coming from because it blows all over the place in there, drains down, and a little looks like a lot. The posts above narrow down the normal places to look. That being said, I’d try to have the mechanic clean and narrow it down. Especially with the recent cylinder work. You’d like to make sure you don’t have an issue with that workmanship. Is this mechanic different than the person that did the cylinders? Hopefully?

I think this kind of workmanship behind the panel is much more common than we realize unfortunately.

Totally agree. Unfortunately that’s the state of aviation. If you can do some of it yourself, you can save a ton of cash. @gsxrpilot built his own panel for about what you’re talking about.

One other common thing to look for... The trim tube can rub on several bulkheads it passes through. There is an sb for this. It will cause friction and actually start cutting through the tube. Theres a limit in the sb for cut depth before needing a new (expensive) tube. There are sacrificial (phenolic) blocks that hold the tube just above the hole through each bulkhead and the sb mentions some tape that can be applied to the tube. Its probably the thing the other guys are saying, I’d just make sure it’s not the tube rubbing because that can definitely happen too.

Yeah, I don’t think anyone said you didn’t need an antenna.

This is not surprising, but does seem high. Taking out and reinstalling a panel with all the associated wiring is big. Can definitely be done cheaper, but many places charge about $3-5k. It’s also why the G5 / EDM route may be much cheaper as the equipment is less and it can possibly fit in the existing panel, thus removing equipment and labor costs as well.

Yeah, from my reading these threads, you can end up pretty close to a factory Rebuilt price if you use new cylinders and overhaul all the accessories.

That does sound worse, but I thought I read some guys talking about fixing them pretty easily. Can you run the tank out and make it easy?

Inspection screw is pretty easy. Probably do it yourself if you wanted. Take screw out, clean, screw back in with proper sealant. There’s a thread around here that had details.

If it’s that close for the 10”g3x including new panel or modified panel, I’d do the g3x. You need the 10” if you want the eis displayed with your pfd. If you do the 7”, you’ll need 2 of them to do pfd and eis.

Fitting 2 G5s and a jpi900 in existing instrument holes may require much less panel modification than adding a 10” g3x which is what you need for eis. Also, I’d hate to have a pretty new g3x with no adsb and keep my vacuum adi as backup. The G5s won’t need the vacuum adi. Keep your adsb on an iPad. Still you’ll be looking at $20k plus.

It does require gps input (either internal or external) for normal operation, but it’s designed to continue to work after losing the signal in case of ship’s electrical failure. Supposedly this mode is slightly degraded, but it still looks perfect. But yes, under normal circumstances, a gps signal is required to keep it perfectly aligned.