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Ragsf15e last won the day on September 15 2019

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About Ragsf15e

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    Eastern Washington State
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    1968 M20F

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  1. Yeah, that makes sense. The troubleshooting guide Doc suggested leads through a nice step by step diagnosis. Making sure the engine ground strap is there and properly connected is a pretty easy quick check.
  2. Next time you start the plane, turn the switch to start but don’t push yet. You should hear a buzz. That’s the shower of sparks which works in concert with your left mag to start the engine. If you’re hearing a different buzz, then maybe it’s part of the issue, but the sos buzz is normal and required.
  3. Well the buzzing is probably good as that is likely the shower of sparks. That buzzing should only happen during a start with the key in the start position and it’s usually hard to hear if you don’t pause in the start position before pressing the key. If that’s the buzz you hear, it’s normal. The not turning over is not so good. Doing this warm doesn’t add anything for me. I’d be troubleshooting electrical... maybe before/after starter solenoid all the way to starter. Does cockpit power seem normal during these episodes or do lights dim? Actually, check the engine ground an
  4. Just to expound... you can get rid of your turn/bank indicator if replaced by a backup adi, but you will need a slip indicator which I don’t see. I think that’s easy to solve. The cgr and gi275 options are primary engine instruments that fit in standard instrument holes. Less panel cutting is good for the checkbook. They might cost slightly more than a jpi900 but install would be the same or cheaper due to not modifying the panel.
  5. Check out the EI Cgr-30p and the gi-275 eis instead of the jpi. Nothing wrong with the jpi, but the other two do the same thing for similar cost and fit in your existing panel (move the elec adi to the turn/bank posit). Don’t cut a new panel just for the jpi. You can just put a blank panel cover over the moritz holes until you’re ready for a full new panel.
  6. Yeah, the other symptoms are key. Mine was pissing oil out the drain.
  7. Yeah, I agree. I’m not telling the OP to run out and throw parts at it, but a new mech fuel pump fixed some erratic fuel pressure issues on takeoff/climb. Full power, It’s solid at 29psi now with the electric pump on and only drops to about 27 or 28psi with the electric pump off.
  8. Yeah, ok, that’s real hot. You don’t want to run it that hot. Gear down probably didn’t help as you were staying under 120mph. You should be flying full rich, full power, fast, at ~5,000’ ish. 75% power for a while, then 65-75% iaw the lycoming guidance. If it gets that hot under those conditions, something else might be wrong... baffling, or fuel flow?
  9. It’s pretty easy to tell, there should be orange paint around the cylinder.
  10. Yeah the mechanical pump has a drain coming out of the bottom of it. Depending on which seal in it is leaking, it can leak oil or fuel. I never noticed it in flight other than some erratic ff but it made a mess all over the nose gear truss. The drain comes out right next to the sniffle valve drain on my 68F. As mentioned, I think you’ll need to check out connections through your fuel system to make sure you isolate the problem before throwing parts at it.
  11. They can leak either fuel or oil out of the small drain that comes out just in front of the nose gear. Mine fluctuated a bit during climb after shutting off the electric fuel pump but didn’t drop out of the green. It leaked a lot of oil and made a mess. Replacement fixed both issues. If you replace it, the new one will likely run right at the top of the green, maybe slightly over and then decrease slightly as you break it in. I used overhauled from a well known shop in OK who’s name escapes me...
  12. I have chrome cylinders as well and generally agree with what John said above. Mine did run hotter during break in but maybe only 10 degrees or so. How hot are your cylinders running? I did my first 15-20 hours on mineral oil, then xc20-50. In the end they are ok but definitely use more oil. Also, as mine aged (15 years and 1000 hours), the chrome started to corrode and flake off the cylinder walls. Essentially I had to overhaul the cylinders to redo the barrels. So maybe they don’t rust but the chrome can flake off.
  13. Maybe that’s true and I definitely hope it works out for you, but keep an eye on that starter solenoid...
  14. My cylinder experience has been close to 50% cheaper for overhauled. The angle valve cylinders are expensive! Maybe less savings on other cylinders?
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