Ragsf15e

It might depend on what you mean by “dual”? Ive got a 10” g3x and my G5 on the left of the radio stack. There would be plenty of room on the right for a portrait mounted 7” g3x to function as a bu/eis/mfd. mine has a storage cubby there. I think it would be tight to fit another 10” but im not sure. This isn’t a perfect picture for you, but it is a 1987 252 and you can just barely see the black of the cb panel to the right of the usb outlet on the lower right edge.

You were also right about the maintenance manual... it took me a while, but I found a section on "adhesives" in the engine maintenance manual and it calls out Loctite 271 High Strength Adhesive sealant for the "press fit breather" on TSIO-360s. Thanks, Drew

Aha, thanks for the warning. Mine is working well, so hopefully we just inspect the screen and put it back together without having to search on our hands and knees all around the shop for parts!

Rich, thanks, the engine shop got back to my mechanic and said something similar. Basically, heat it up, rock it back and forth to get it out, make sure it’s shaped well and then put a bunch of blue Loctite in there to seal it when you put it back in. My mechanic hadn’t seen that before and he’s been doing this for a while. I was a little worried. Drew

Skip, that’s awesome, thanks. If we take the red can off to look at the screen, does that send the spring flying? We just want to put eyeballs on the screen and make sure it’s not getting filled with stuff. Drew

Ha! No doubt. Luckily that’s (hopefully) not the price. The seal kit for that one (if it’s the mooney part number) is only 13.75… but Lasar won’t let you checkout if you don’t spend at least $50?!

Sorry, using this old thread as im confused about the gascolator part number. We’re opening mine to check the fuel screen and i want to get the seals for it. It’s part number Airight 610015 but is that also the 51200? They seem the same? One a mooney part number and one Airight? lasar has a kit for the 51200…

So, in annual, m20k 252, umm, the connection from the case to the breather is loose, wiggle is vertical and clearly leaking oil down from the base. Have you guys seen this? What’s the fix? My mechanic is “researching” it..

It’s also not near touching the tube on the side. @GeeBee is right, if it’s a retread, the dimensions might be off. I would check that too. No matter what, this is an uncommon problem that definitely needs fixed. I haven’t seen that in my 12 years of mooneyspace.

According to the Concord website, you should be seeing at least ~13.8v (temp dependent) or more to properly charge the battery. Something isn’t right with this charging system if you’re down in the low 13s. It’s not hard to troubleshoot and find the issue. Could be the vr, but could also be a little corrosion on a connection somewhere. Mechanics don’t like troubleshooting this stuff but it’s not terribly difficult. Below is from your battery manual… Ps - don’t let them throw parts at this without troubleshooting! Or do it yourself with a Voltage meter. It’s not terribly difficult.

There are also up/down limit switches in there that control power to the motor (along with the switch itself), however I would think that they are available from the electronic warehouses. At least the flap limit switches were when I needed one last summer.

Hello, My new plane has a built in system, so I'm selling my Aerox D Bottle and 2 person regulator. This works with the oxymizer cannulas and masks and lasts a long time on a fill. The hydro test date is March 2024, so it won't need retested until March 2029. I had been getting fills a local welding supply shop that did "Aviation Oxygen" for $30. Shipping could be an issue, but I'll try to work it out with UPS (it's considered hazmat). Or pickup in Eastern Washington. $225 plus shipping. Here's a link to the system on MyPilotStore - https://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/sep/7792

As a group we’ll eventually need to find a solution for this. It looks like the J and K cowl flap motors are the same (or very close). They don’t fail often, but they also aren’t available if they do fail. It would be great if we had an FAA approved shop that would fix motors like this - there use to be a guy in Sacramento. I think the more likely scenario is to find a local shop that would be willing to fix it and an A&P willing to “supervise” the repair. If tge gearing is broken, then we would also need a machine shop capable of replacing gears. While it’s not simple to find the correct people to do this stuff, it’s not impossible, and the part isn’t so critical that people are going to be really worried (like maybe a gear motor). However, it would be great if Lasar or a Mooney group could purchase say 5-10 new motors through Allied Motors (who bought globe) and keep them in stock. Although I think the purchase price and long return timeline would be problematic.

As Eric said, all the smaller oil "seeps" from the engine work their way down to the wheel well. You should get comfortable removing the "cheek" cowlings and top cowling and looking all around your engine compartment roughly between oil changes (or anytime you see increased oil leakage) to assess where it's coming from. There are return lines from the rocker boxes that are "sealed" with hose clamps and notoriously leak. These engines tend to seep some oil from the inside to the outside. It's definitely not like a car. Generally it isn't a symptom of something bad, but it should be looked into, especially if a new one develops. Just be advised, a couple small drips of hot oil can spread over a very large area and look much worse than it might be. Welcome to ownership! Getting comfortable removing/replacing the side and top cowlings and identifying all the bits in your engine compartment will be well worth your time. Ask away if you need help. Drew

I’ve got a brand new Maggie Harness (left side only) that I had intended to install on my F before I sold it. It’s for a Surefly (slick mag cap) so if you think you want a surefly, this might be for you. It’s brand new in the box, never been used and still has the free hat! We would need to make sure that your mag is routed to the same spark plugs as mine was because there are two different ways to route them. New from Maggie is $355, asking $250 plus shipping. Drew