Ragsf15e

Plus the labor to R&R it and inspect all the linkage thoroughly back to the rudder. Oh and the airplane better be in a hangar the whole month you’re waiting.

Very interesting. I’m guessing there’s a good mix of factors helping us improve… probably decreased total hours flown being a big part. Improved weather and flight planning -1990s on. Improved airborne situational awareness ~2014 on (adsb in). Maybe improved training and recurrent training mixed in there from ~1995 onwards. Someone should pull the most recent Nall report graph for all of GA and compare. I think it looks similar. Definitely an interesting graph, thanks!

Jeez, after all that, maybe you should just go when the winged version and not worry about special tools or tearing them up? Maybe they don’t look perfect, but they open easily, secure reasonably, and probably only cost 2-3kts.

Two things… v = i x r (voltage equals current x resistance) means under no/low current, you may see 12 volts even if you have a significant source of resistance. When you put a lot of current through there (cranking the starter), the voltage will then drop precipitously at the point of resistance. So yeah, you’ll need to see why that’s dropping so far. Maybe as easy as an old battery? But could easily be corroded connections. Second, some items will have a voltage source all the time, but not a ground to complete the circuit. A good example is the master solenoid. It’s got positive connection to the battery all the time (even when off). The master switch supplies ground to complete the circuit. I don’t know if the sos is like that, but it’s definitely possible.

That’s awesome if it’s fixed, because that’s much cheaper than a fuel servo overhaul!

I definitely agree, but it will come at an expense, so just be ready. Nothing wrong with this because they are super thorough and knowledgeable, but it will add up quickly!

Interesting, when you set up the dip switches, did you enable advance timing? How did you hook up the manifold pressure? Is this 28v or 14v airplane? I would call SF. They have reasonably good support. Mine worked perfectly straight out of the box.

This one is key to think through. Case, cam, or crank and you’ll be at least close if not over zero time factory rebuilt. Also, if you do all the accessories individually, that adds to a “basic” overhaul. Finally, you can schedule (within reason) a factory motor for delivery and then swap it out instead of sending yours in and sitting for months. Not saying this is best for everyone, but worth thinking about.

Glad you and your family are ok! Really hope your airplane is as well!

That’s real good. Unfortunately not standard in the avionics business. Not even common in my experience. Is that normal for this shop or did you have to include that in your plan with them?

As part of this are you having them rip out all the old/orphaned wiring they find/create along the way?

I saw a relatively new SR22T that did that. Luckily it was parked in front of a Cirrus Service Center. The guy had been leaving to fly to his weekend home at night and forgot. I saw the airplane with the engine removed the following week and asked the DOM how long it would be down. He said it didn’t really matter as the owner already bought a new one to replace it and was just trying to unload this one.

It’s a good habit to be in even if it just reminds you to think twice before moving the prop. You understand better how the mags are “turned off”, the possibility of hot mags, and the danger. There are some new setups with switches for the mags and push button start that are awesome, but possibly easier to accidentally leave a mag switch on. I had a student shut down (mixture pull), half-hazardly finish the shutdown checklist, hop out, and get the tow bar to move the airplane. No key in that airplane as it has mag switches, which were both still on. I should have double checked her during the checklist, but thankfully my spidey sense made me check the switches before we moved the prop to hook up the towbar. I hate that airplane!

If it’s the airspeed switch, absolutely nothing should happen when you select gear up. Sounds like you had lights change and gear move? I do agree with jacking it up and checking, but if the gear lights changed, it shouldn’t be the asss. I don’t think the alternator/battery will do that either…. So good luck? Maybe checking the limit switches? The gear electrical system is not complicated, but getting to each part and coming up with a good troubleshooting plan takes some time. The motor, limit switches, asss, and connections are all in different (hidden) places.

I agree about the limitation, but the pump is the correct one. Apparently the correct pump comes with a stiffer spring now??