Ross Taylor

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About Ross Taylor

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  • Location
    : Flagstaff, AZ
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  • Model
    '66 M20E

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  1. Yup, the instructions are pretty clear about running them under water and pressing them into place, then letting the water dry. And I even read the instructions (I had wife was watching). They stuck in the middle for us, but wouldn't stay adhered in a crescent near the top. Even on the part that adhered, when dry, they weren't as clear as I'd like. But, I'm glad they work for you! I have nothing against them and really wanted to love them.
  2. Hi MS friends, I wanted to share my experience with something I really wanted to like. I bought two pair of these OPTX (Hydrotac) stick on reading lenses to add to sunglasses. They're sold on Spruce and also on Amazon. The Amazon reviews are mixed...some love them, some can't get them to stick. I'm afraid my wife and I are in the second camp. Neither one of us could get full adhesion of the lenses to our glasses. It sees that the curve/contour of our lenses doesn't precisely match the form of the lenses, so they wouldn't adhere properly and were not very optically clear (even after removing them, cleaning them, and trying again as instructed). Maybe your experience will be better than ours, but I wanted to pass this on to the others in my need-reading-glasses-age group. I do see that Flying Eyes has a model of sunglasses with a built-in reader option, so it looks like I'll go that $190 route instead of these $15 stick-ons. Ross
  3. I was thinking about the odd ammeter readings you're getting and that sounds much like a bad shunt or bad connections on the shunt. If there's corrosion in those connections, or a loose connection, it will change the readings. The shunt is a bar for carrying the current (which is too great for the gauge to read directly) and it's got two smaller sense wires. If the large current-carrying connections are corroded or loose, you'll see lower voltage through it (voltage will typically drop more as the current flow increases). If the sense wires are corroded, those typically result in higher gauge readings (as the resistance through that sense circuit increases). Keep in mind my background is not in aircraft electrical systems, but is in wind turbine systems...but many of those concepts are the same...except wind turbines are like reverse airplane drivetrains.
  4. There's an oil temp thread that started a few weeks ago it's still going on, actively. There are some good photos and things to check in there. Check it out:
  5. Thanks! It's certainly better, and easier, than anything I'd cobble together.
  6. Well @Fry - this is damned nice work. The level of detail, the thought you put into it, and the creativity in execution is quite impressive.
  7. Hey @47U - I'd love that Word doc file, if you don't mind posting it here or sharing via PM. Please and thank you! The card for our current whiskey compass is way down low, near the flap and trim position indicators. A new vertical card compass is going in, though, and your card looks nice and clean. That file would save me some work.
  8. I'm not at the plane...but doesn't that range also have a MP limit? Like, "don't operate in this range above 24 inches" or something? If I remember that correctly, it wouldn't be a factor on approach. EDIT: I looked at photos and confirmed that my RPM limit placard specifically says it applies above 24 inches MP
  9. I'll bite! I've been looking for new shades... I'll send a PM or DM... a message. :-)
  10. Thanks @Derrickearly - I ordered one of these last week. Thanks for the pointer.
  11. I think the issue isn't so much the approval of new members as it is their ability to DM immediately upon joining. If someone wants to join, whether a real person or a bot, they really can't do much harm in the public forums. If they're just posting dumb stuff, that's pretty obvious and easy to call out. It seems like the nefarious stuff happens privately, when they DM a member.
  12. Aw come on... the ROP/LOP question would certainly put the AI in a loop and it’d let the magic smoke out of the CPU.
  13. I made a suggestion in another thread, based on another forum I used to frequent...that people were restricted from sending DMs until they had 10 posts or so. It prevents someone from joining just to send a DM, like happened to me last week. By the time someone's posted a few times, you can see if they're legit or not.
  14. And...yes...before someone states the obvious, it's named a rectangle. HAHA! The Miniflo shares what seems to be a somewhat common shape for the cutout, a rectangle with angled corners. I got a diagram from Shadin and could cut it manually and carefully, but this seems to be a commonly used shape and I'm hoping to find a punch or trim ring for it (in case the cutting isn't as perfect as we'd like). So far, I can't find either of those...but I'm sure I'm challenged by not knowing the name for this shape...if there is a standard name for the panel opening. Thanks MS! Ross