dzeleski

I don't fly nearly as high as you do but I did get my J up to 16k a few months ago and had to switch to a mask and the highest F mode to get my O2 back. I live at 20ft MSL so my body is not used to higher altitudes at all but it did get me back into the high 90s without issues. Granted though I do not have an installed system its a portable system, but it is capable of working the way you are asking assuming things are working correctly. Did you call them with the issue? They actually have really good support and its possible something was wrong with the system. Its possible your regulator is much lower pressure then the standard regulator that they ship from MH and your bravo needs a slightly different adjusted one from MH or you may not even need one if the pressure is low enough. See the attached screenshot if you have not seen it. Basically in short if your system already provides 16-20 psi you dont need that extra regulator most likely. That being said, since I live at sea level I started using O2 anytime Im cruising above 6k. I feel a hell of a lot less tired after a full day of flying and im not nearly as irritable either. Im 32, 170lbs and in good shape. I keep the O2D2 set to D5 when I plan on flying for more then an hour or two.

My grandfather had it done before he passed. The next time I saw him after he had the surgery he said it was like having 20 year old eyes again. I know there are some risks depending on the case but if they say you have a good case I think its a pretty standard procedure at this point. Give your AME a ring as well just in case

Exactly this. Only thing I’ll add here is use the correct lube in the correct spot as per the service manual. I had nothing broken or “wrong” just a pure lack of maintenance on the trim system.

That’s very much not good. You need this looked at ASAP. It could also be a servo issue there was a recall but if you just got it installed you probably aren’t affected. Still possible that you got a bad or weak servo. If your shop hasn’t done a lot of mooneys I would ask them to reach out to a shop that has to get some advice. Also tell them to call garmin. What you can do is inspect the grease on the jack screw. Mine was absolutely thrashed and was 50% of the problem.

Yep similar issue, the chances of the airplane passing the ground test in the up direction are slim even on a well rigged and maintained trim system. That being said you still have a problem here, it should make it stop to stop without issues and stopping. It might just be on the slower side. We had to completely pull apart my trim system cleaned, re lubed, and re rig everything in the tail to get it as close as we could. Garmin was called and they advised on my airframe slightly slower on the ground is ok. With wind loading in the air it’s completely to spec. After all this work my manual trim has never been easier and the ground test just barely fails in the up direction. If I recall correctly it took <30 seconds up rather then the 24 that is written. My serial is 24-0095, 77 J.

The gfc manual says it’s optional and not required, but I’m not sure why you wouldn’t install it. The trim switches do a few extra things for safety though. Hitting the trim switch with the AP on kicks the AP off as well as stopping a commanded trim runaway. You always have the CB as well but having the switch there is nice.

No problem, please do a VFR flight test for all modes to make sure it’s working correctly. Do a few different practice approaches, gps tracks, ILS, LPV, etc.

My IFD 440 is set to GAMA 429 for OUT. I believe there is another config page for the CDI/OBS config as well as the VOR/LOC/GS config. I would double check those values. Edit: I believe VNAV ENABLED needs to be selected as well. https://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01112-10_19.pdf#page144 Section 5.12.3

I don’t think Wesley has flown an airplane in his life let alone use an EFB. What an unbelievable waste of taxpayer money. The fact that there are two different definitions for installed vs portable with completely contradictory requirements is actually hilarious. +1 on ignoring this crap

I’ll add to this because I completely agree, the annual done by the owner as apart of my purchase of my J was $10k, the next 3 annuals were about $5k, the last two have been $10k and $13k. On top of random stuff sprinkled in through out the year (hoses, cables, sensors, oil, etc). And we are completely ignoring the 60k in panel work. When a cylinder goes, a valve sticks, or the tanks leak things get expensive. Then something like your spinner bulkhead cracks and the part doesn’t exist so your December annual turns into a May annual. You can write down whatever numbers you want on a spreadsheet but the accuracy of those numbers are going to be wrong. If insurance cost is what is preventing you from moving forward I would highly reconsider the entire concept of owning an airplane at this cost bracket or RG. I bought my J at 80 hours TT, I don’t regret it but it took me another 100 hours to feel confident enough to do my IR. There is no chance in hell I would try flying for work without an IR, your dispatch rate will be terrible or you are going to be taking massive risks to do the flight. Just another set of pennies though.

Not sure on the E but on my J my overhead vents rattle at certain RPMs. Might be worth touching them and see if the rattle goes away.

It’s done via balloons every handful of hours. https://www.weather.gov/rah/virtualtourballoon https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weather_balloon

I’ll try that next time thanks! I only recently realized this last year when I flew across the US and realized the numbers were not making any sense what so ever.

I’ve had serious issues with flight planning winds with FF. Sometimes it is wildly incorrect and it seems to be something to do with interpolating between measurements points. I also believe it uses a combination of measured winds and forecasted winds.

@Echo Have you visually checked to make sure your mixture control actually brings the mixture back to the ICO stop on the servo? Or asked another way, when you pull back to ICO does the engine shut off immediately or does it run on and stumble for a few seconds? If the cable isn’t reaching ICO the engine will stumble and continue to pull fuel rather than starve, leaving more fuel in the intake when it finally does shut off. Since it’s open more fuel can leak into the intake as the pressure bleeds off. This floods the engine. Then when you go to start again it is able to pull more fuel into the engine making the situation even worse. I had this problem recently when my mixture cable failed. You also might want to make sure the sniffle valve is clean and free as well.