PT20J

Supporter
  • Content Count

    1,499
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

PT20J last won the day on March 16

PT20J had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,194 Excellent

1 Follower

About PT20J

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    0S9
  • Reg #
    N355DT
  • Model
    1994 M20J

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Not sure what they mean by non-clad aluminum. Pure aluminum is very corrosion resistant, but not very strong. Alloyed aluminum is stronger, but not as corrosion resistant. Cladding is a coating of pure aluminum over an aluminum alloy to improve corrosion resistance. Skins are 2024-T3 Alclad aluminum. Any metallurgists onboard? Skip
  2. The older transponders can survive not being connected to an antenna, but I’m told that the newer all digital ones cannot. When I had my old KT76A replaced with a GTX 345 for ADS-B the avionics shop warned me about that and the tech even put a warning tag on the coax at the antenna end stating not to power up the transponder with the antenna disconnected . On my 1994 M20J, the DME antenna is on the pilot’s side and the identical transponder antenna is on the copilot’s side. I don’t know if this was standard at the factory or not. Skip
  3. That’s standard hardware. Your A&P should have a stock of such. Or, you can buy them from Aircraft Spruce or a number of places that stock aircraft hardware. Skip
  4. Proof again that when the engine's running fine, but a gauge reads funny, check the gauge first.
  5. The black ABS cement (from the hardware store for gluing ABS plumbing) is made from ABS resin, MEK and acetone. I’ve used it on the black glare shield. The advantage of melting Leggos or buying the kit from Plane Plastics is that you can make white glue. Either glue can be painted - when the solvents evaporate, it’s just ABS. Skip
  6. The plastic is ABS. You can melt ABS plastic in MEK or Acetone to make a thin paste (some people melt Leggos and Plane Plastics sells a kit containing ABS chips, a small paint can and syringe). You can lay up few layers of fiberglass cloth with the paste on the back side and it will form a flexible repair that permanently solvent bonds with the original part. If you paint it with SEM Color Coat afterwards, it will look great. There are also flexible epoxies (Bondo makes one -- check an auto parts store) made for repairing bumpers and dashboards. Skip
  7. Service Manual Lube chart calls for Aeroshell Grease 7 on the jackscrew and actuator. I believe there are also shims to set bearing preload in the actuator. Skip
  8. One man’s touchy is another man’s precision. It might be helpful to fly another Mooney for comparison. I’d check that the elevator and trim system are properly lubricated and not worn such that there is freeplay (i.e., a dead zone) around the trim point. Skip
  9. Byron -- those look really nice. I like them better than the eyeball vents in my '94 model. Realize this is an old post, but if you want to finish off the shoulder harness attachment try these. I got them through Fastenal. Same part as Mooney used. https://www.caplugs.com/finishing-caps-rh?itemNumber=RH-20 Skip
  10. I bought an Aspen ACU from an avionics dealer that was removed from an aircraft they were upgrading and it was fine. I also bought a WX-900 Stormscope. It worked also. I think it's a viable option for older avionics now that a lot is being removed for upgrades. Agree with Paul, though -- it might be a crapshoot. You're buying used stuff -- it could fail 5 hours after you install it. I just don't look for unreasonably low prices and buy from sellers with good reputations. Skip
  11. A stuck filter on most Lycoming IO-360 variants is just a nuisance. On the dual mag engines, removing a stuck filter can spin the converter plate and damage the gasket between the plate and the accessory case leading to a potentially catastrophic oil leak. When I had an IO-360-A3B6D, I kept a spare gasket on hand just in case. Skip
  12. Over 30 years ago when I purchased my first airplane, a friend and airplane owner told me that the best part of owning an airplane is that the flying is free. When I questioned that, he pointed out that given all the costs involved with owning, maintaining and upgrading an airplane, the gas and oil for an hour of flying was minuscule -- essentially free. Richard Bach wrote years ago that he wanted to buy a single engine airplane but couldn't justify the cost until he remembered that he really wanted a twin that would burn much more fuel. So he reasoned that by not buying the twin, the fuel savings would pay for the single. Extending that logic, he reasoned that if he ran out of that money, he would not buy a Learjet and that would finance his flying forever. The point is that these things are not cost effective unless you really torture the analysis or can write off expenses to a business. They provide utility and we own them because we want them and can somehow manage to afford them. If the fuel cost makes or breaks the deal, we should perhaps rethink the entire proposition. Skip
  13. Hey, I like to save money just like the next guy. But, since the airlines and military stopped using avgas, and more and more of GA burns kerosene, I’m just kind of glad that they still make the stuff. And, I’m grateful that major FBOs are still willing to deal with little airplanes. I always tip the line crew, fill the crew car with gas, top off the airplane and never complain about the pump price. Skip
  14. How does the velcro attach with the foam backing? Skip