PT20J

It appears that after a card is corrupted, there is no way to recover it. Did you check both update boxes to update both cards and the terrain card became corrupted, or did you do them one at a time and still get the corruption?

The O ring is around the cylinder base (see drawing I posted) and seals the cylinder to the crankcase. If it leaks, it is possible for oil to get under the cylinder flange and come out at the stud threads. This is more likely than the stud leaking. You don’t want to do any repair that interferes with the proper torque on the stud nuts. Skip

Be very careful if you want to attempt bending the vane.

Sounds more like someone forgot to tighten the screws.

My main concern with building iPads into the panel is that the product life of an iPad is very short and Apple often changes the form factor with new iPad releases. Remember the concern a couple of years ago about whether Apple was going to drop the mini? An Aera might be a better choice. Skip

Not sure what “upper right engine mount went into my firewall” implies. Maybe the impact just collapsed the motor mount, but that mount is attached to the tubular structure, so I’d check to determine if that got bent. Skip

Try pulling the circuit breakers one at a time to isolate the circuit. If this started after replacing the voltage regulator, check that.

If Mooney doesn’t have them, Vantage Plane Plastics might.

The advantage to waiting is that there will be more options available in the future. The disadvantage is that you lose the utility provided by the equipment in the meantime and, to some extent, you have to retrain when you finally do upgrade. My main point is that it’s much harder today to upgrade piecemeal because not everything works well with everything else like it used to. The two biggest upgrade risks, it seems to me, are buying something with less capability because you don’t think you will need it and then having to replace it, and buying something and then learning that it

I discussed this with Garmin when my terrain card died after an update. They didn't tell me to completely exit the flygarmin updater, but they did say to only select one card at a time for programming. I always thought the application acted squirrely when I checked both boxes anyway. I asked if this meant that there was a problem with the programming application and they said, "No, this is just considered a best practice." I thought this explanation strange. Why would there be a feature of the programming application that they recommend you not to use if you complain that it killed your

I just went through this. Three years ago I purchased a low time '94 J that the previous owner had upgraded with an Aspen PFD and GNS 430W. It has a KAP 150 autopilot and KX 165 and vacuum gyro for the autopilot. I added a GTX 345 for ADS-B In/Out. I figured it had sufficient IFR capabilities, attitude system redundancy, and that there would be a lot of used equipment available to keep it running if something broke. The problem is that the autopilot kept breaking down. (Other stuff broke, too) And I've spent about $10K keeping it running. The autopilot is critical for single pilot IFR nowaday

Good point. I’ve noticed a lot of students tend to continue down hill because the engine is making a lot of noise so they think they are climbing. For me, the airplane doesn’t accelerate fast enough for that to be an issue, and I can push the throttle and the TOGA button without taking my eyes off the attitude indicator. Really the best set up is with a quadrant and the TOGA button on the throttle so you can activate it with your thumb. Skip

Thanks for getting the correct info and posting. Eight memory items happening at a critical time! Since real missed approaches don’t happen that often, it’s good to practice this every so often. The TOGA button is generally mounted so that you can hit it with the index finger of your right hand as you push the throttle in. So for me, items 1 and 3 occur together with item 3 slightly leading item 1. Also, I always keep my left hand lightly on the yoke (and near the autopilot disconnect button) so that if anything doesn’t go right, I can instantly take back control. I do this whenever

There’s another thread from a few months ago. Remove the left exhaust cavity and have someone swing the nose wheel back and forth with a towbar (easier if you put it on jacks) and look to see what is causing the master cylinder to actuate. Skip

Paul, from posts I see in BeechTalk, failed rotators seem to be a thing. Wondering if your data shows that it is more prevalent in Continentals vs Lycomings.