PT20J

I’d pull the inside side panels and check the windows for leaks. If they leak, water runs down between the skins and the trim panels into the belly. That’s how the tubular structures rust because the water doesn’t show inside. Pilot’s window is the first thing to check.

Thirty-five years ago I was an engineering manager at a telecom equipment manufacturer. The CEO decided to fire the VP of Manufacturing and gave the job to the VP of Engineering - my boss. In turn, my boss anointed me warehouse supervisor. Some weeks earlier, I had ordered a birthday present for my wife and had it sent to the company so she wouldn't know about it. UPS said it was delivered, but the warehouse crew swore they never received it. Now, I was suddenly and unexpectedly their boss. I got everyone together on the warehouse floor and said that the first order of business was to find my wife's birthday present. After the shock wore off, it only took fifteen minutes to find it where it had fallen behind some other boxes.

There are two designs for the seat back frames as shown in the upper left of the drawing. The later ones move the back further into the baggage compartment providing more rear seat room. The bottom is just a cushion that rests on the plastic pan. Your seats have to be somewhere. I’d go searching for them myself.

2.0" dia x 22.0" long. The one between the muffler shroud and the firewall valve is 2.50" dia x 33" long. I ordered SCEET (double wall silicone with finished ends) from @Gee Bee Aeroproducts and it will last longer than the engine.

Yes, the ASI serial number matches mine. It’s Mooney part number 820308-535 which according to the IPC was used on SN 24-3201, 24-3218 on. The IPC lists several part numbers of ASI for various M20J serial numbers. EDIT. I see yours is a -525.

The biggest failure mechanism isn't the actuator -- it's the pilot. Just look at all the gear ups. And, it's not that people are stupid or careless -- a lot of very experienced pilots have gotten distracted and missed the gear. I used to be in a club in San Jose that had a manual gear M20C that managed to get bellied in twice.

Check with Skylar Thody at Skyman Avionics 541-604-9573. I think he still has mine from my 1994 M20J MSE. It was working fine when removed for the G3X installation.

22 V open circuit voltage would be a 0 charge state. In a M20J, there are overhead lights connected to switches in the overhead. These are wired directly to the battery and will deplete it when left on. If the battery is dead, it might show 0 V in the airplane if the switch to the lights is still on. After removing the battery it might recover a bit which might be why it showed higher voltage outside the airplane. The test @MikeOH suggested would confirm. You can try charging it and then performing a capacity test to check the battery’s health. However, as others have said, Gill sealed batteries don’t seem to last long and your best bet might be to replace it with a Concorde.

Makes sense since the GFC software resides and executes in the GI 275. The GI 275log file should show what errors occured.

If it doesn't clear with a power cycle, and all the connections are sound, a trip to a Garmin dealer is the solution.

Garmin did fix this some software releases back, so current software gives you audible traffic bearing and elevation callouts. I never bothered connecting ForeFlight audio to the panel. I just have ForeFlight Bluetooth connected to the G3X to transfer flight plans.

It's a problem with equipment that has been out of production for half a century. There may not be any spare parts around anymore for wear items like brushes unless someone has some new/old stock sitting on a shelf somewhere.

I got one of these. Used 2 layers of blocks.

My panel draws about 6A @ 28V. My G3 LED landing and taxI lights (2 ea.) draw 6A if all are turned on. LED bulbs draw less current than incandescents, but they still can drain reserve from the battery and they would be the first load I’d shed. (Like many, I leave them on all the time to increase my visibility to other airplanes. I think it works because opposing traffic frequently reports me in sight before I see them).

I don’t have a photo, but the 6 AWG output wire is well supported with clamps and I cable tied the other wires securely to that. I also eliminated the fuse holder connected to the AUX terminal for a tachometer option that was never installed on my airplane.