Glen Davis Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Gee-Bee wants $295 for the tooling and $125 for a set of silicone door seals. Anyone care to split the tooling cost with me? The more the merrier. Glen 917 297 1111 Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Few people know airplane seals as well as GB.... There was a time where MSers were getting money together for basic engineering work to get a drawing of an existing part made... A go fund me page was started or something of the type... I remember throwing my lunch money of the day in to help get it started... I think this was done for the manual gear down lock block... Just an idea if it is difficult to get other people on board... Best regards, -a- Quote
jetdriven Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 This is been tried before on here, search is your friend. 1 Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Typically... to make a piece of rubber, a long continuous shape... like a door seal... A tool that is specific to the material and the shape is needed... It also has to fit the machine that is providing and pressurizing the molten polymer... Often this piece of metal is called a die... sometimes it is called a tool... Supplying a piece of the seal... usually informs the die or tool maker all the details they need to know to design the tool... The machine that the tool gets mounted on is often called a profile extruder... At the far end of the extruder, is often a water bath, for cooling, and a puller... Plenty of precision goes into extruding profiles... We could always ask guy if he uses an extruder or how he is going to mold the part... PP thoughts only, all stuff I read about somewhere.... probably not MS.... MS does have a few extruder, injection molder, and tool guys... Best regards, -a- Quote
jetdriven Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 33 minutes ago, Niko182 said: I'm a bit confused. I sent @GEE-BEE a piece of my door seal a week and a half ago to fabricate the door seal. Why does he need to fabricate more tooling? I thought the tooling is made once and creates the mold of the door seal It’s funny because I sent him a piece of the door seal five years ago and had 30 people lined up for deposits and that whole thing blew up too. The gift keeps on giving, because my door seal was now too short to use for a door seal, I used it for the baggage door. Then when I ordered a cabin door still two years ago the BA706M seal from Brown changed suppliers , and it’s like flat and crushed and that was crap too so now there’s no door seal options 1 1 1 Quote
Niko182 Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 looking at the parts catalog, it seems like the J, K, M, R, S, and I presume the TN all share the same Brown BA-189-139 Seal. Sources in case anyone wants them M20J: http://mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney M20J Illustrated Parts Catalog.pdf page 569 M20K: http://nctc.tk/mooney manual/M20/K/M20K_IPC.pdf Page 499 M20M http://www.nctc.tk/mooney manual/M20/M/M20M_IPC.pdf Page 401 M20R & S: http://www.softoutfit.com/static/refs/parts.pdf Page 323 Quote
Shiny moose Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Now if it works! Seals the door properly. I have the K2U door seal and Im not impressed. I know this subject comes up often but nobody ever has the solution for a good, rain out, and quiet door seal. Brown aircraft list the T-11001 as a beech mooney door seal. Quote
jetdriven Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 It sounds like the T11001 is the same thing as a BA706M and without the foam cylinder insert. But again, the rubber that they had it made with is so stiff it’s flat across as a seal down to a half inch of thickness, when you close the door and you can see daylight around it. I even made a video of it and sent it to Brown and you know what year and a half later still not resolved. But look the old door seal that I bought brand new two years ago is round and cross-section thin and supple. The one on the left is the new version, it’s like pre-crushed flat, even flatter than the 30-year-old seal that’s on the airplane right now, it’s stiff, has no sponginess to it at all Quote
jetdriven Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 EE1C6784-EC67-4449-A115-807C5E085FE0.MOV Quote
Marauder Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 1 hour ago, jetdriven said: It sounds like the T11001 is the same thing as a BA706M and without the foam cylinder insert. But again, the rubber that they had it made with is so stiff it’s flat across as a seal down to a half inch of thickness, when you close the door and you can see daylight around it. I even made a video of it and sent it to Brown and you know what year and a half later still not resolved. But look the old door seal that I bought brand new two years ago is round and cross-section thin and supple. The one on the left is the new version, it’s like pre-crushed flat, even flatter than the 30-year-old seal that’s on the airplane right now, it’s stiff, has no sponginess to it at all I wonder if anyone has played with trying an open tube with a smaller silicon insert. I did this trick on my F350 and it really improved the quality of the seal. Quote
Will.iam Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 13 hours ago, Glen Davis said: Gee-Bee wants $295 for the tooling and $125 for a set of silicone door seals. Anyone care to split the tooling cost with me? The more the merrier. Glen 917 297 1111 At $420 why not just go up to $499 and get the Bob Fields inflatable door seal? https://aerocessories.aero/ 1 Quote
Gagarin Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) I use boat hatch seals. If they can keep water out from sinking your boat they are good for me. They are much cheaper and available in every boat store. These seals have to withstand a more hostile environment than in a airplane environment. https://www.bing.com/shop?q=west+marine+hatch+seal&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=05AAB0C135294F16B29C8287E2D5DC28 Edited February 20, 2021 by Gagarin Quote
ArtVandelay Posted February 20, 2021 Report Posted February 20, 2021 Just make sure it’s not too thick, otherwise your door won’t be flush with the hull. Quote
tomgo2 Posted February 28, 2021 Report Posted February 28, 2021 Bob Fields Inflatable door seals are amazing. Ask thousands of satisfied customers. Mine was installed in 1987 and still works great. www.aerocessories.aero 1 Quote
Davidv Posted February 28, 2021 Report Posted February 28, 2021 The inflatable ones from Bob fields work great. It significantly cuts down on noise in the cabin as well as CO (if you are seeing any PPMs on your meter). 2 Quote
A64Pilot Posted March 1, 2021 Report Posted March 1, 2021 Boeing helicopter? I know of only a couple of those and wouldn’t think there would be any sales for them? Quote
Ragsf15e Posted March 15, 2021 Report Posted March 15, 2021 On 2/19/2021 at 7:20 PM, Glen Davis said: Gee-Bee wants $295 for the tooling and $125 for a set of silicone door seals. Anyone care to split the tooling cost with me? The more the merrier. Glen 917 297 1111 Was this seal made from a J? Looks just like the one he made for the long bodies in another thread. Are they the same cross section shape? I gotta see what my F is supposed to have vs what this one is copied from... Quote
Yetti Posted March 16, 2021 Report Posted March 16, 2021 My door was leaking when I bought the plane. I stuffed a bit of this under the current door seal. Been great for 5 years. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-1-2-in-x-1-4-in-x-20-ft-Brown-Silicone-Self-Stick-Weatherseal-SS20BR/100555614 Quote
gsxrpilot Posted March 16, 2021 Report Posted March 16, 2021 I'd be interested in buying into the deal assuming the J door frame is the same as my 1987 K door frame. Quote
Yetti Posted March 16, 2021 Report Posted March 16, 2021 2 hours ago, GEE-BEE said: Typical half ass job This post is reproduce a copy of oem seal in new silicone spec, not non aerospace material. You win the half ass Trophy Possibly. But since mine has a 5 year head start, let's check back in 10 years and see who's door is still not leaking. Also you might want to check the aerospace spec on the contact cement that Mooney used to apply their door seals and the rest of the trim/carpet in the cockpit. Quote
201Mooniac Posted March 16, 2021 Report Posted March 16, 2021 What is the cost for the door seal for the J? Quote
Bunti Posted March 16, 2021 Report Posted March 16, 2021 Some years ago, I wanted to replace the door seal on my F. I went to a Mooney Service Center in Florida, bought the original Mooney seal and got it installed by my mechanic. Result was that it was almost impossible to close the door afterwards. So the mechanic had to remove the seal and bought a universal seal from Homedepot. This is not the optimum solution but it was much better than the part we got from the MSC. Maybe we got a wrong part which was made for a J instead of the part required for the F. Gee-Bee, do you have one for the M20F from 1967 available and what would be the cost? Quote
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