GEE-BEE

That is some poor welding Knisley is a suggestion GB

Either are ten years of use read the specs on age life change every ten years

My suggestion because these are alloy and not stainless steel is to remove and clean every 300 hours or five years. I have a Eaton Cnc tube bender and copy worn or corrosion tubes often. I use 304 stainless with adel clamps I mock up my exhaust for automotive Sema builds , then we build another in titanium GB its not work , it’s a high end hobby

Kurt at Expert aircraft French valley is not far Terry Huntling Aero bear aviation in Indio is another choice. GB

.050 is the key to compression acts as a Bumper and chafe I invented the .025 for the beech gill and cowl doors. The dies were expensive,, but a group buy of over 50 sets took care of that . no more chafe or rain streaking You all fail the power of a group buy to get things made.

Most turbine or jet aircraft have a molded seal with a umbrella pull to secure into place on airframe . All Beechcraft have a channel where the inner and outer gear doors close upon/ 90% are missing as paint shops fail to install new after paint. I have sold more than 6k sets since 1991 for nose and main gear doors . trim to fit , clear silicone cement included.

The Cirrus door seal leaks and is a automotive design joke. I often have service centers ask me to redesign. The Columbia had inflatable door seals , different dim each side. Iam the oem mfg for the 300-350-400

No You want a silicone in correct thickness to act as a bumper and seal Many aircraft have seals for the doors to close upon. Another area of metal on metal is cowl door upper and lower and mid section. I designed a .032 in 1” and 1”-1/2 wide for this application, stocking dealer is aircraft spruce. use silicone cement Or rtv106/ rtv108 If your in the aircraft seal business please chime in. You will never see any turbine aircraft with metal on metal. GB

I suggest.050 chafe seal 3/8 or 1/2 wide reduce the ruba duba GB

Ten year service life I sell at Distributor cost with 8130 when your purchasing seal and hoses GB Prices will be going up as Lord has a new owner.

Back in the day when I was a Intl Slick Aircraft / Unison rep We had designed a dual mag gear assy two drive two magneto's Iam not sure why it never surfaced , New magnetos were sold for 57.00 to the oem, no core Distribution paid 210.00, plus core charge It cost more to ohc a magneto than build new All 4/6 magneto parts the same except for block and gear assy I designed mag harnness in different colors, I left and started Gee-Bee I was the core King before I went to work for them , I sold pallets of new mag's and paid 10.00 for cores to Ch

GEE-BEE SILICONE SEAL / CEMENT INSTALL : MASK SURFACE ON BOTH EDGES CLEAN SURFACE WITH TOLUENE AND BRASS BRUSH FREE OF OLD CEMENT MIX SILICONE CEMENT AND CATALYST IN A CAN CUT IN HALF APPLY CEMENT TO AIR FRAME OR DOOR , LET DRY OR USE HAIR DRYER TO CURE DRY APPLY CEMENT TO SEAL IN SMALL SECTION AND APPLY AND DRY WITH HAIRDRYER / 3/5 INCHES IS BEST ALLOW SEAL TO DRY 12/18 HOURS BEFORE CLOSING THE DOOR , ETC QUESTIONS :N77GB@MSN.COM RTV 106 OR RTV 108 IS ALTERNATE

I have located a used good condition door assy with original door seal to remove and have a extrusion made. 912018-001 was oem ams3207 spec / Duro 25 This will be done in grey mil spec silicone with a very soft Duro , sold with clear silicone cement. Will be sold with certs and trim to fit. Stay tuned GB

Toluene and brass brush lots of tape to protect both sides of door Advise closure of the door

I don’t mfg the seal, the patterns were from Bruce at Wilmer air service years ago. The original seals were made into dies, click there done. M20f shown