Davidv

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About Davidv

  • Rank
    Lives Here

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Miami, FL
  • Reg #
    N46BL
  • Model
    M20M

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  1. Thanks everyone, quick update, I fired up the engine yesterday and so far no gauges seem to be inop. However, I’m going flying today and will see if the TIT gauge functions as that obviously wouldn’t indicate anything on the ground.
  2. It's surprising how easy it is to change the hex code in my GNX-375. For me it happened when my shop installed a new garmin encoder which was previously configured to another aircraft. Apparently this changed the code in my setup and I had been broadcasting the tail number of this other aircraft for a few flights. I just went into the setup and changed the code to mine. It would seem pretty easy for a bad actor to pick that guy on the field he doesn't like and then go bust a bravo with his code...
  3. Agreed, especially when I try to trace all of the tubes and bundles that split 2 or 3 times downstream. My wiring diagram:
  4. Thanks @StevenL757 and @RLCarter, I plan on tracing it but out of curiosity wanted to see if it was familiar to anyone since it's so different from any of the other wires coming out of the firewall.
  5. Yes, that's what it looks like but I was also thinking that the wire is so small that a break could look like a cut. I'm not sure if that's the other end, but I can't find any other wires around there that are the same type besides that one.
  6. I know this is a shot in the dark but while changing the oil yesterday I noticed this wire and I’m not sure if I nudged it out of its harness or if it was like this prior. It’s extremely small so it’s not out of the question that it had been tugged enough times and finally broke. I’ve circled the wire as well as the only other wire I see past the white tape that could be the other end. After that it disappears inside larger bundles so I’m not able to trace. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. The funny thing is that you could probably pick up a GIII (gulfstream variety) for around the same price as some of our planes new. Only problem is that it will cost you about that much per year to own it!
  8. Not sure, I called the nearest MSC and they told me they have their best people on the case :).
  9. I had a bad shock heating incident the other day. It happened right after I pulled the plane outside the hangar. The CHT's went from around 80 degrees to well over 250 in a matter of seconds. Coincidentally, a few hours later, I experienced a shock cooling event at nearly the identical location outside my hangar.
  10. You're not far off. I forgot what I paid but even worse, the database card is something like $200-300 for just one! As I mentioned previously, I paid somewhere around $150-200 for the download from the site before realizing I didn't have the right firmware on my device. When I called to explain my situation they overnighted me a standard card to plug in to my unit for no extra charge (didn't pay for the card or shipping) and it worked perfectly. I will say that despite being tone deaf in their small GA product development, their customer service is pretty good.
  11. My plane was in one of these hangars before I bought it. Kind of funny to see a Mooney sitting in there with all of that space...
  12. I’ll start off with an @carusoam like disclaimer and say that I’m by no means an expert but here is what Jerrod and I did: 1. sand down to bare metal around the areas that we were painting in order to get smooth transitions without ridging 2. Spray primer that was recommended by finish masters based on the paint and color (this was gray). 3. If you use the high quality AF-400 paint you’ll have to mix it with activator at the prescribed portions. 4. We used a paint gun very similar to the harbor freight one above and sprayed very lightly (you can add more but not subtract. If I had to do it all over again, I may have taped off the area but there are differing views on this. Yes, you may get a slight color line but without tape you’ll be spraying tiny particles further back on the elevator that you’ll have to sand out later and may mask your original clear coat. 5. Let dry for several days and then wet sand using rough to fine sand paper. 6. Buff and wax Again, not a painter, just a PPL and please consult someone who knows what they are doing before working on your plane! :).
  13. Around 18.5. also, I may have been a little high on my speed, I was thinking of what I see at 18000 and adjusting down since I don’t fly a lot at 13k, but it may not be as linear. Either I’m on long trips or quick ones at lower altitudes.
  14. Everyone seems to run at different power settings never mind the fact that they may have had an oversight when entering their TAS in the flight plan. It would be relatively easy to carry over a value from a lower altitude by mistake. I should get 190+ at 13k running at 29/2400.
  15. Between the paint (AF-400) and other supplies it probably cost around $250 and that would have been enough paint to touch up the entire plane. I just did the tail sections. The downside is that the finish isn’t as glossy as the original paint but unless you’re looking under a shop light it’s tough to tell. Is it perfect or as good as a paint shop? No way. However, the color matched extremely well from Finishmasters and the “brighter” leading edges below are mostly from the light outside the hangar. @jerrodmonaghan was kind enough to help me with the job as well as applying some bravo decals afterwards! I’ve included a few before and after pictures below: