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Everything posted by Ragsf15e

  1. Well the heat knob attaches to the side of that mixing box in your diagram and moves the valve. You probably just need to take off your top cowling and look at the connections and maybe inside that mixing box. It’s pretty simple and I’m no mechanic. It does need lubed and adjusted from time to time.
  2. Also, I think there are two types of valves that people have in there. Mine has a butterfly valve that opens to allow hot air in incrementally. I think there’s another type as well. What does your heat cable attach to?
  3. Mine has different type of latches that are twist 90 degrees and stick up maybe 1/2”. They seem solid. Is what you have original?
  4. Oh yeah I agree, but I would think that the heat exchanger inside the exhaust just cares about the exhaust temp. ROP keeps the CHTs warmer but the egt is (a bit) cooler.
  5. In the military circling is definitely restricted based on airframe and mission. In fighters, they’re banned. I suppose you could shoot a straight in if the weather was high enough for a normal 1500’ pattern, cancel when vmc, and then circle to another runway, but a traditional circling approach is not authorized. In basic training in T-6s, we did teach daytime only circling, but not night. I definitely agree it can be used in some specific cases to get to a normal pattern, but it should be used very cautiously and in a known environment.
  6. I’m not doubting the LOP vs ROP heat folks, but the EGTs are higher during LOP, so I wonder why wouldn’t that increase heater output? Higher EGTs lead to the heater muff and should yield higher heater temps, no?
  7. Good lesson there. Definitely don’t want to push forward to keep the nose down as you said. I’m typically pulling back say 5lbs pressure on a normal takeoff. On xwind takeoff maybe a tiny bit less or neutral, but definitely not pushing. Seems easy to get too much weight on the nose or even lift the mains first as you said.
  8. On the GFC700 in the Meridian I fly, it is set up the same way - electric rudder trim, yd servo. There is an yellow caution that pops up on the pfd telling you to adjust the rudder trim if the servo is having to hold too much rudder. I’m surprised you don’t get an announcement on your G500, G3x or g5 for the gfc500.
  9. If you’re moving to the upwind side, it’s weathervaning. Usually that’s happening at lower speeds. Definitely start with ailerons full into the wind and then slowly relax as you accelerate. Rudder as required for centerline-which could be left rudder until liftoff, then coordinate for flight. Honestly I find xwind takeoff more difficult than landing to do elegantly.
  10. Everyone above nailed it, but to your second point, I lean aggressively like everyone above and have never had my engine heat up much on the ground. In the air if you go lop it’s actually cooler. On the ground very lean seems plenty cool. I suppose if you were waiting a long time for takeoff on a very hot day, you might keep an eye on it, but temp doesn’t seem an issue with very lean ground ops. Your plugs will thank you!
  11. Although I have fond memories of listening to John Denver singing Rocky Mtn High as my dad and I flew a -172 over the Rockies in about 1982. We had to turn it way up to hear without headsets. Also, I think he was trying to use the radio station to figure out WTF we were!
  12. I also have dual G5s with vacuum removed. I feel it’s really more redundant than with vacuum because I have 2 ADIs (both G5s) and the original T&B. Also have an ipad and adhrs in the GTX345 although no battery on that.
  13. If he’s worried about redundancy, maybe put an av30 in the adi hole. You’d have 3 ADI still, different types and battery backup but could still remove the vacuum. Remove adf and teach him how to put music and podcasts on his phone or buy him xm radio in the airplane.
  14. I’d buy an O with tks. If you’re going to fly in the weather, it is definitely worth having even if rarely used. Yes it costs some mx $$and a couple knots () , but It’s better off having than wishing you had it.
  15. I too have a Yaesu and it’s solid as others said, however, I really don’t like the user interface. It works great, but god forbid if you want to find squelch or a preprogrammed freq or really anything in the menus. I’m not a total dufus, but I need the instructions in front of me to do anything more than turn it on and transmit. Also the rechargeable batteries mine came with are terrible and die quickly if you transmit. The AA battery pack is important to have ready.
  16. Nice! 50+ years isn’t bad. You sure that’s the problem? The limit switches in the belly are another common issue when they are this old…
  17. So with a ‘69C and having looked at the gear closely, you don’t have a squat switch. However, as clarence said, you don’t have an airspeed safety switch (ass for short) in that picture. It should be a big brass colored thing with pitot lines attached to it. You’ve very likely got one somewhere behind your panel! Also, do you have a gear problem you’re trying to resolve? Describe what happens and there’s a good chance we can point you in the right direction.
  18. Also, don’t be surprised if there isn’t one. There’s only a couple years where they used squat switches. What year is your C?
  19. Cylinders and compression can be fine while your lifters and cam are corroded. Advice above by @dlthig is prudent.
  20. Agree. That’s why I said repaired or resealed. It’s gonna need something. It’s not going to get better by itself.
  21. As they said, it’s considered airworthy by the description in the maintenance manual, but it’s going to need repaired or completely resealed at some point in the not too distant future. If you’re buying it, you can certainly fly it, but add a reseal into the purchase price ($10-14k ish total for both tanks). Wait time can be long at the highly respected places.
  22. Sounds simple under/behind/below the bottom of the windscreen!
  23. I wish mine had that kind of weight and balance info… ‘68 F. Weighed at the factory with full fuel. First mod is at the factory too (electric gear). First mistake is also at the factory (subtracted elec gear weight instead of added), caught and corrected in pen. No equipment list other than what I created. If I had someone around here to help me re-weigh that I trusted, I’d do it. There have been lots of changes!
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