DonMuncy

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DonMuncy last won the day on November 21 2019

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About DonMuncy

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday 07/02/1938

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas (Dallas Executive - RBD)
  • Reg #
    231AT
  • Model
    M20K (1982 231)

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  1. Only in aviation would "only" and "$7000" appear in the same sentence.
  2. First thing I would do is swap the 1 and 3 CHT probes and fly it to see if perhaps the # 1 might now show the high temp. Thus a bad probe. I had it happen on my K model.
  3. Absolutely amazing. I wonder how often one of those robots go out of adjustment, and have to be tweaked.
  4. It is not hard to do a capacity check on the battery (OK, you do have to have the equipment). If it checks out good, no worries. If not, replace it.
  5. I think the thought process is that one often needs a light to unload the plane after a flight. Not a bad thought, but it has cost many batteries. The shut-down timer is an easy fix.
  6. Bear in mind that (at least in the modern planes), there are two senders, one at the inboard end and one outer end.
  7. With the cost of the timer and ease of installation, I consider this one of the "best bang for the buck" things you can do. I know that many people fly a lifetime without having the problem, but one battery is one two many.
  8. It is not too much more than that. But some. Getting (or designing) a timer good for 30 seconds or so is easy. Getting one to stay on for 10 or 12 minutes is more of a challenge. Basically, the power feeds into a capacitator, and when the power is removed, it then bleeds back through a resistor. Sizing the capacitor, resistors, diodes and the transistors to get the timing right is the problem. Thus the Darlington pair transistor set-up. And yes, it requires a relay to carry the power for the lamps.
  9. After I ruined my battery leaving the cabin light on, I designed a circuit to keep the lights on for 10 or 12 minutes after the master switch is turned off. It is an electronic circuit with a darlington pair transistor set up. I have a couple of them made up. Naturally, they are not STCed, so would need to be installed as a minor modification by and A&P, or a reasonably talented hangar elf. Let me know if you want one, or I will be glad to give you the diagram so you could build your own.
  10. The only one I am aware of is the one I make.
  11. Are you happy with the result? Do they fit flush with the cowl like the originals did? Is there any downside, other than cost?