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ArtVandelay

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Everything posted by ArtVandelay

  1. I guess I have auto switch enabled as mine switches automatically, HOWEVER mine was flying the complete approach like you did. What will it do if you’re being vectored; will it auto switch if in heading mode, APR is armed?
  2. You can get the G3X, GFC500, and G5 as backup…cut a whole new panel….sell the old equipment and only be out less than half that: $35 AMUs. I’m assuming you already have a Garmin GTN GPS.
  3. It’s 4 AMUs difference unless something changed in the last 3 years. I had quotes for both G3X and G500 before going with G3X. And adding the 2 275s would eat the difference up.
  4. Remove the control cable, sometimes they are used as points to secure wiring, so check before you pull it. Plug hole in firewall.
  5. I also did the prop with Palm Beach Propeller.. I also recommend new alternator, starter, engine rubber mounts, control cables, flush the oil cooler and strip engine mount frame and repaint.
  6. As a general rule, if you want the GFC500, get the G3X, any other autopilot get the G500 which has better support of OEM products.
  7. $40k these days. 5 years ago I had mine done for $30k at Zepher and that’s with needing a new case due to unfixable cracks.
  8. An easy sanity check is before you start the engine, check the CHT and EGT temperatures to see if they match the ambient temperature.
  9. I run LOP I’m below 75%, when I did initial breakin flight after overhaul (2 Hours of 75% or above) it was ROP. CHTs started out around 425° but were down to around 400° by end of the flight. After a couple of other flights 65%-75% LOP the CHTs continued to drop. Air temperatures during these flights were about 80°. I also had my fuel pump making more than book limit of 30 psi, by end of 10 hours it back to normal as well. After that I had the prop dynamically balanced.
  10. Why would it be different if opening from the inside vs outside as OP mentioned?
  11. And new interior and speed mods…..gotta have the speed mods!
  12. I would verify FF readings by filling the tanks, then refill and compare to engine monitor data.
  13. How many hours do you think it should take? 8-10 doesn’t seem too bad. At 10 hours that’s $125/hour, for California that’s sounds about right.
  14. I’m going to treat this with respect it deserves and ignore it. [emoji6]
  15. If I was Lax I would just send them in to be overhauled at this point, who knows what else was done by a PO.
  16. That’s actually what I was charged, no hearsay, $2000+shipping. They replaced 2 gears and a motor clutch or clamp on each speed brake. In my case one wasn’t deploying properly, but they insisted on overhauling both.
  17. Are you sure, I just had mine done and it was 2 AMUs.
  18. You don’t need FAA approval, any AP should be able to do it with nothing but a signature, same year: The only trick is the nav lights are tied to gear down light, so you’ll need to disconnect that connection.
  19. The other downside these days is I’ve heard there’s shortages with various parts, like cylinders.
  20. Now would be a good time to change your tail number to something more personal.
  21. Makes no sense unless you ran the engine at low power and cylinder temperatures were less than 300°. If you do this the lead scavenging chemical reactions won’t remove the lead and you will valves coated with lead. I believe Busch explains this. There seems to be a lot of mythology in piston aircraft maintenance that gets passed down from one generation to another. Did you use a borescope to visually check the valves condition? Chances are your old school mechanic didn’t. Doing so might help figure out what is causing the leaking valves? Lead, burnt, broken….. And did the mechanic do the test with a cold or warm engine?
  22. At least one of the screws on top looks rusted, I would change them all out if they’re binding. When you pull power they’re supposed to snap down. I would try gently moving the brakes and try to feel if there’s any binding, if not could be a problem with 1 of the limit switches.
  23. Try taking the picture at dawn or dusk, there’ll be ambient light to take the picture without flash.
  24. I had a similar leak, turned out to be a cracked case close to the alternator.
  25. I don’t have any motors or incandescent lights, mine are all LEDs, 1.2 amps or less. Modern electronics all have voltage regulators (that’s why they work with 12v or 24v and why they can be on during engine start up and shutdown) and don’t have a start up draw either. So my derating factor is 1.
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