TTaylor Posted September 4, 2018 Report Posted September 4, 2018 30 minutes ago, Fred_2O said: @TTaylor the link to your photos is broken. Should be able to go to my profile < Albums < Rear Window Mod 20F 1 Quote
LANCECASPER Posted September 7, 2018 Report Posted September 7, 2018 On 9/4/2018 at 3:45 PM, Fred_2O said: @TTaylor the link to your photos is broken. Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Posted March 27, 2019 It has been a busy six months since I started this thread. My side windows are green, and the windshield is not green- it is solar gray. Yesterday I ordered two solar gray side windows with UV-IR control. Recently I read on another thread that drilling the window mounting holes large is a good thing. Pre-drill with 1/8" then expand to 1/4"? Quote
67 m20F chump Posted March 27, 2019 Report Posted March 27, 2019 I helped do a door window on a Beechcraft. They made a point to close the door when you let the window sealant set up. I would think Mooney would be the same. 1 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted March 27, 2019 Report Posted March 27, 2019 1 hour ago, Fred₂O said: It has been a busy six months since I started this thread. My side windows are green, and the windshield is not green- it is solar gray. Yesterday I ordered two solar gray side windows with UV-IR control. Recently I read on another thread that drilling the window mounting holes large is a good thing. Pre-drill with 1/8" then expand to 1/4"? There needs to be clearance around the screws. Drill an 1/8 inch hole and use your countersink to countersink the hole then drill to 3/16. You have yo countersink it enough for the dimple to fit. I'm pretty sure the procedure is in the maintenance manual. Check there before you start. 1 Quote
SheryLoewen Posted March 27, 2019 Report Posted March 27, 2019 DRILLING TIP NOTE: Windshields installed with flush screws through dimpled holes in the skin need special attention. When drilling the Plexiglas being held in place, the windshield will be resting against the dimpled upset-holding it slightly out of position. To compensate for this, the pilot holes #40 should be drilled to the outside edge of the existing holes. They will lineup after the hole is drilled full size and countersink! This prevents puckering of the metal on the finished job. 1 3 Quote
flyboy0681 Posted March 28, 2019 Report Posted March 28, 2019 At each annual over the past three years we had windows replaced. The first was the windscreen, followed by the pilot and door and this week the two rear. It's not a job I would tackle on my own, but to each his own. The overall cost for the installation was not terribly much. Quote
carusoam Posted March 28, 2019 Report Posted March 28, 2019 The technical detail explained by Shery/Paul explained the puckered ugliness of my M20C’s windshield installation... done in the last century... Thanks for sharing the tech details Shery/Paul that info will go a long way and help many! Best regards, -a- Quote
Yetti Posted March 28, 2019 Report Posted March 28, 2019 If doing this, I would do what one person did and cut a step on the edges for a flush fit. You could also by a certified 4x8 sheet and get to cutting. Quote
hmasing Posted March 28, 2019 Report Posted March 28, 2019 16 hours ago, flyboy0681 said: At each annual over the past three years we had windows replaced. The first was the windscreen, followed by the pilot and door and this week the two rear. It's not a job I would tackle on my own, but to each his own. The overall cost for the installation was not terribly much. I did my pilot and passenger side this past October. Took a full day to do, but was not hard at all. Needed two people to do the installation when actually putting the screws/nuts in, but was easy enough and I'm NOT mechanically inclined. Quote
pinerunner Posted March 28, 2019 Report Posted March 28, 2019 I've had such good results using the Novus plastic polish that I got from a Harley dealer that I never expect to need to replace a window due to crazing. I even used it on our truck's headlight lens that had taken a lot of abuse from sand on the road in winter. That took a long time and made me wish I had purchased the coarsest grade, but it worked in the end. I've also seen it for sale at the Rockler woodworker's store for getting really fine finishes on carpentry projects as well. I was having a bit of trouble seeing through when the sun was low and a couple hours polishing cleared it up. Just saying. Quote
bradp Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 Page three of my interior project has info on replacing the windows. Do it when it’s hot so you don’t crack anything. Use fresh chem seal. The stuff really does expire. Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Posted March 29, 2019 8 hours ago, hmasing said: I did my pilot and passenger side this past October. Took a full day to do, but was not hard at all. Needed two people to do the installation when actually putting the screws/nuts in, but was easy enough and I'm NOT mechanically inclined. Thanks @hmasing- but I don't see your photos. They seem to have been ground up in the bit mill and spit into /dev/null. I'd like to see them. Anybody else see them? Quote
ArtVandelay Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 8 minutes ago, Fred₂O said: Thanks @hmasing- but I don't see your photos. They seem to have been ground up in the bit mill and spit into /dev/null. I'd like to see them. Anybody else see them? I don’t see either 1 Quote
Hank Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, Fred₂O said: Thanks @hmasing- but I don't see your photos. They seem to have been ground up in the bit mill and spit into /dev/null. I'd like to see them. Anybody else see them? Open the attached thread and scroll through it, lots of pictures. Just no pictures in the first post. Keep reading down, pictures are there . . . . Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Posted March 29, 2019 8 hours ago, Hank said: Open the attached thread and scroll through it, lots of pictures. Just no pictures in the first post. Keep reading down, pictures are there . . . . Hank, how does one open the thread? When I quoted it to write my reply the pictures weren't there as I deleted the frames. Thx. Quote
Hank Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 2 minutes ago, Fred₂O said: Hank, how does one open the thread? When I quoted it to write my reply the pictures weren't there as I deleted the frames. Thx. Click on it in Brad's post above. Mouse click or tablet touch here, inside the red line: Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Posted March 29, 2019 5 minutes ago, Hank said: Click on it in Brad's post above. Mouse click or tablet touch here, inside the red line: Hank- Brad's post isn't the one that I want to see photos - it was @hmasing's post. The photos are missing above. Do you see photos there? Quote
hmasing Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 25 minutes ago, Fred₂O said: Hank- Brad's post isn't the one that I want to see photos - it was @hmasing's post. The photos are missing above. Do you see photos there? I dropped them in from google photos, so permissions may be hosed. Here's the album with all the pictures I took from that project, please let me know if you can see them?https://photos.app.goo.gl/wYrqbTmKuWthhvgE8 1 Quote
Marauder Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 I dropped them in from google photos, so permissions may be hosed. Here's the album with all the pictures I took from that project, please let me know if you can see them?https://photos.app.goo.gl/wYrqbTmKuWthhvgE8 I can see them. Your old glass looks very similar to mine. I noticed you still have fiberglass under the windows. I would do SB-208 while you have the panels out. Hopefully your old windows didn’t leak and your new windows shouldn’t if they are sealed correctly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro Quote
Marauder Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 And what color glass did you go with? Can you post a picture of new and old side by side? Loved to see that comparison. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro Quote
hmasing Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 1 minute ago, Marauder said: I would do SB-208 while you have the panels out. Hopefully your old windows didn’t leak and your new windows shouldn’t if they are sealed correctly. Knocking that out this weekend - plane has been down since this project for a panel update as well. I went with the light gray from Great Lakes Aero Products. You can barely see the new windows compared to the old ones - it's a major safety improvement. Quote
0TreeLemur Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Posted March 29, 2019 10 minutes ago, hmasing said: I dropped them in from google photos, so permissions may be hosed. Here's the album with all the pictures I took from that project, please let me know if you can see them?https://photos.app.goo.gl/wYrqbTmKuWthhvgE8 Thanks a bunch Hans. I've had the door panel apart but I haven't really looked at the window on the pilot's side. Good to see what that area looks like. In my bird the windshield is clear or slightly tinted. The side windows were crazy green. For replacements I went with Solar Gray with UV+IR control. 1 Quote
hmasing Posted March 29, 2019 Report Posted March 29, 2019 Just now, Fred₂O said: Thanks a bunch Hans. I've had the door panel apart but I haven't really looked at the window on the pilot's side. Good to see what that area looks like. In my bird the windshield is clear or slightly tinted. The side windows were crazy green. For replacements I went with Solar Gray with UV+IR control. Yup, that's what I did I think, too. This is the new passenger side window looking to the rear of my plane, and the old window. I stripped some corrosion and primed it for when I get the old girl painted next year, hence the green. 1 Quote
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