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Everything posted by N201MKTurbo

  1. I've had the points stop opening 3 times since I've owned my 201. Never both at the same time. Good job getting the plane down in one piece.
  2. If you are away from home and they get sticky, a drop of oil from your dipstick works wonders.
  3. I have a feeling that in their rush to get as many planes certified as possible, they were reusing as many drawings as possible. Most airplanes use cable control, so they tried to leverage that as much as possible. Maybe sometime they will have time to improve the installation.
  4. I could weld that up in about 30 seconds. Just got a new bottle of argon. I could do it on the plane if I had a genny to run the welder.
  5. There is a spare yoke on the other side….
  6. I’m sure the new fancy o-rings are the bomb, but for the last 40 years, I just order the ones from the parts manual 5 at a time. At every annual I look at the o-rings and if they look sad or weather checked, I replace them. The big One takes all of 30 seconds to change, the small one takes a couple of minutes. 5 of the big ones cost less than $10 and will last 10 years or so. I know everybody has a better idea of what is best, but it isn’t a problem that needs solving.
  7. I would be careful adding alcohol to our tanks. I don’t think the sealant likes it.
  8. Replace the o-rings and adjust the tightness. Mine don’t leak.
  9. I worked at a pizza parlor in 73. I was the first to discover that if you held a cheese shaker and shuffled your feet across the carpet and touched the cheese shaker to the coin box you got a free game. We played that thing for hours after closing. (We had beer taps and the boss already went home….)
  10. I use speed tape. I’ve considered making cover plates for them, but never got around to it.
  11. No, but if you know a dealer he can get it for you. The dealer is not supposed to do that, but the dealer can hire you to install in in your own airplane, wink wink... BTW. the person who did this was a fully qualified A&P and actually worked for the dealer occasionally for years...
  12. I know a guy who installed it himself. It took him six months to do it, working on it every day. It is a lot of work.
  13. Just like semiconductors, everybody used to order JIT (just in time), but now everybody is hording and will buy as much as possible so they don't run out. This puts a significant burden on the supply chain. Most folks used to order 1 or 2 filters when they needed them, now everybody is ordering boxes of six and stocking up. I'm sure the demand is way up from normal days with everybody ordering 3 times as many as normal. Some day soon everybody's shelves will be full of oil filters and the demand will drop significantly. You will see them for sale cheap on EBay and Amazon and the price for new ones will go down and then after a while the price will go back to normal. Hope it happens soon.
  14. You forgot to mention to turn off the heater. Actually, the heater is about the only thing that can produce really high CO amounts. You should turn off all air coming from the engine compartment. This includes outside air from the center console. You should open up the overhead vents, no way for CO to get there. If you can get the CO readings down and you feel OK, I wouldn’t do anything heroic about landing.
  15. It seems good to me, but the government? Who knows if rules matter any more.
  16. Sounds good to me. Afriend just bought a turbo Comanche. He said it wouldn’t hold RPM, so he sent the prop off. I told him it was probably the governor, so he sent it off too. The governor was leaking so bad internally that it took $1500 in parts to fix it. They scrapped the hub on the prop too. 1500 hours is a lot of time. How many years?
  17. Make sure you clean the old sealant out of the nut plates. If you don’t, the screws won’t fit and if you try to make them fit you will push the ends off of the nut plates. Use the biggest drill bit that will fit down the screw threads and spin it with your fingers until you hit hard metal at the bottom of the holes. If it isn’t tedious, it isn’t an airplane.
  18. I would test it on the ground. Put it in wing leveler mode and crank the roll knob left and right. The yokes should follow. If it only goes one way, check the servo connector in the wing.
  19. I would ask just to be sure, and don’t trust me, ask Mooney.
  20. I’m pretty sure those gear legs should be heat treated after welding. Did they do that?
  21. With the doors disconnected and the gear up, are both mains at the same up position? There is a rubber bumper strip in the wheel well, check the distance there. They should be close to the same. If not, you may need to adjust the length of the main retract rods. Adjust the rods so the spring is just shy of being completely compressed when the overcenter link is straight. The spring will be slightly relaxed from maximum compression when it goes overcenter. Be sure to check the preloads after this to make sure they are in range. Don’t adjust the rods to try to achieve a preload, adjust to the springs and then check the preload.
  22. I have always found the blockage to be in the pitot tube itself. I have had to soak it in water for a while to soften the mud, then let water run through it for a while to wash out as much mud as possible. A pipe cleaner or some weed wicker string would be ok to get it clean too. On the road, I have used small tree branches to clean it out. All this with the pitot tube removed from the plane. You never realize how much you take the ASI for granted until it doesn’t work. It is a bit unnerving.
  23. No way! Is that how it works? I thought that 50 gallons of water I haul every day just turned to ferry dust. With only a 20 amp service in each hangar AC is out of the question. It is either a swamp cooler or nothing. Still, nothing corrodes around here.
  24. You should read the piston cleaning procedure in the overhaul manual. It is very specific about how to do it. If you do it according to the manual it is tedious, but will not damage the piston and you will eventually get it squeaky clean. For full disclosure, I’ve never cleaned a Lycoming piston by the book, but I have done Continental pistons by the book. The only tool allowed in the ring groves is a piece of string. I did them in the kitchen sink with a nylon cord tied to the faucet. You loop it around the piston in the groove and move the piston fore and aft along the cord. I used comet cleanser (limestone dust) as the cleaner. It got everything out without removing any metal.
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