Basic Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

201 Excellent

About pinerunner

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday 05/03/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Reg #
  • Model

Recent Profile Visitors

992 profile views
  1. pinerunner

    CHT Differences

    My #1 cyclinder is cooler too. The CHT's look a lot like the ones above.
  2. pinerunner

    M20F Fuel Stick - I know I know

    I took a dowel and started with an empty tank at the fuel pump. I just added 5 gallons at a time, stuck the dowel in and marked it with a pencil (not soluble is graphite so good for this). Kept doing it until is was full and I had a dowel marked in 5-gallon increments.
  3. pinerunner

    Fuel system trouble

    I my case I once had puddles forming after dripping from the tube attached to the auxiliary fuel pump. My mechanic sent it away for a rebuild and the problem was cured for under a thousand dollars. You should be able to sort out which tube it's coming from and trace it back to the component that's going bad. You need a mechanic in the end but you can help track it down and save time. Rubber seals deteriorate with age. I had a few cases where I forgot to turn off the boost pump and that may have made the problem worse by running it 10x more than advisable. It started with a little dripping and then got worse and worse. Checklists, checklists, checklists.
  4. pinerunner

    Pilot maintenance signoff.

    You have to own it and have certificate number to do the sign-off. They could check to see if you really were the owner of that plane. It's a very carefully selected set of routine things that an owner is legal to do to his own plane. The owner will be very intimate with his own plane presumably since he flies it a lot. But if he's not a private pilot yet, that wouldn't be likely to be true. The scenario where you own it but have no certificate shouldn't exist for long since if you can afford to buy it you probably can afford to make fast progress towards your private. If that's not true then you've got bigger problems than worrying about whether or not you can change your own oil.
  5. pinerunner

    IFR training

    I'm working towards my IFR too. My old M20E doesn't have an autopilot and in 1963 they didn't even put in the positive control wing leveler so I'm missing that advantage. I'm on a tight budget so I ponder this question quite a bit. Many say it's very foolish to attempt IFR without an autopilot. I think it's possible but you need to be very careful not to put yourself into a situation where the workload overwhelms you. You don't get to take a coffee break but you can tell ATC to wait. I'm pretty sure if you do that much they'll want to have a talk with you. I'm pretty lucky that my son, who I helped get his private, is now enrolled in a B.S. in Aviation program so in a year or so I'll have the perfect secretary. Also he may be able to help me with the cost of strategic upgrades. If we get an autopilot, he'll probably be the one to pick it out.
  6. My boost pump started leaking and I had to have it replaced. I've had an ongoing eletrical problem where it doesn't charge unless you turn the master off and on once it's started. Cleaning up a bit of corrosion where the ground attaches seemed to cure that, but it seemed to return.
  7. I'm not thinking about springing for a total glass panel, though if John Travolta wants to buy me one as a charity tax writeoff I guess I could go along with that. The Garmin G5 has really got my attention however. I'm very likely to get at least one of those in the next couple of years.
  8. pinerunner

    Considering a Mooney...

    I agree with what he said. If you could easily afford a J you probably wouldn't be asking about the earlier models. I'm happy with my E but only once did I need to put anyone in the back seat and I have short legs so no problem. If I were regularly flying two in the back I would start looking for an older F and I'd be happy with the older gauges. How much money have you got? No matter the answer we can help you spend it. I got my 4 years ago for 35 k$ and I'm having a blast. Spent about 3.5 k$/year on annuals, fixing squawks, and upgrading to a better engine monitor. The older M20 models aren't bad x-country machines. They're just not as good as a more recent J. They all beat a Cherokee so you're sure to be happy.
  9. pinerunner

    Mixture too rich?

    I agree with the advice to lean aggressively for taxi but takeoff is the one place you want it the richest. I remember an article by Deakins where he reccommended you fight with your A&P and get him to set the mixture even richer then he normally would for takeoff, to get maximum protection from detonation. Once good airflow established then start leaning. Trouble with his recommendations is they get kind of complicated so I don't do all of them and stick with a simplified version. If I need a secretary to read the instructions to me then I'll take the easier road. My nose wheel door got less stained after I started leaning for taxi but it still gets dirty. I'd check my spark plugs and if they look fine I wouldn't worry too much about being too rich. Do you have an engine monitor and a fuel flow indicator?
  10. pinerunner


    A well-groomed grass field is not a big deal. I haven't gone into one yet with with my M20E but eventually I will. I will however be picky about which one and when. The only thing I worry about is taxiing my nosewheel into a pothole. I've seen them mowed over in a way that almost makes them stealth traps. If you're going into less than ideal grass strips maybe you should lean toward a Bonanza. Their gear is known for being pretty rugged and they sit up higher. I really dig the Mooney efficiency. That's what got me looking at them, when I read that they have a much higher glide ratio than just about any other single engine airplane. I would not want to go into a gravel strip. With the prop so close to the ground, I'd be afraid of chewing up my prop tips unnecessarily. Beach landings are out for me because I don't want to get salty sand into any of the seams in my airframe. Salt is a real bane for aluminum aircraft. I'd land near a beach once or twice I guess but mostly I stay inland.
  11. pinerunner

    So whats too cold for the plane

    A good read, thank you. I found one practice that I have been doing since reading Busch/Deakins. I lean to peak for low power settings to keep the temperature up. This makes particular sense in the winter and I was happy to see it. I unfortunately have a big guppy mouth (my M20E) and I'm cautious about flying when the temperatures up here in Maine get down close to freezing. I worry about over cooling the oil and also about creating a particularly cold spot on one of the mechanical parts of the engine and causing a crack to develop.
  12. One issue you brought up has been on my mind for a while; the missed approach with a J-bar, given that it's hard to get the gear up at higher speeds. I can see two solutions which I haven't tried out well enough to decide (my plane is in the shop while I work on my leaky right tank). Solution 1 is don't bother to raise the gear at the start of the missed approach. Just give it full power and climb at 90 mph (I've got an older ASI). Keep it as simple as possible and worry about raising the gear when you have plenty of altitude and a stabilized climb. Solution 2 is to give it the power in two steps, the first of which gives you positive rate of ascent at an airspeed that will allow easy retraction of the gear. The second step is full power of course. This solution may be too complicated at a point in time where you want to make things as simple as possible. I guess I'll add in solution 3 where you give it full power and climb at such a high angle that you're at easy gear raising speed. I'm afraid you might be flirting with a power-on stall and all the attitude changes combined with reaching down for the handle might be disorienting. If it's done real slick the "Mooney Dip" you would probably do might end up in the perfect attitude for a maximum rate of climb. I'm eager to see favorite missed approach procedures for J-bar Mooneys
  13. Precisely what I'm doing and I found a Mooney specific one too! John Napoli on Long Island.
  14. You're doing the right thing trying to get all these settings squared away before you get very far into the instrument training. My previous instructor felt I was too sloppy with my settings and that it complicated the training so he wanted me to switch to his Piper Warrior which is simpler. In my approach I decided not to have a higher speed approach with gear up like you show in your table. I found that if I slowed down well into gear extension speed, straight and level, then dropping the gear gave me a nice decent rate close to 500 fpm. I want gear extension to be the start of ALL my different approaches in order to minimize the chance that I will forget it. Instrument flying is more complex than VFR and I can imagine, under a heavy workload, that the one item I want a perfect record on remembering could get forgotten.
  15. I give a downward tug on the Johnson bar after I put the gear down t make sure it's really locked in place. I also feel the button with my thumb to be sure it's clicked into the lock position. There have been some cases mentioned out there on the net where the gear seemed to be down but wasn't really locked and folded up right after touching down. One response that I recall was that wear and tear on the J-bar could create a false ridge that handle could hang up on when lowering the gear, making it harder to lock it in and not as secure. I also recall a case where the spring-loaded handle came off when lifting the gear and shot into the rear seat area. The right seat passenger found it and they were able to put it back together well enough to land (my memory only). Bottom line: Johnson bars are simple and reliable BUT keep an eye on wear and tear issues where the handle and the two spots it seats into are concerned. If you don't let them sneak up on you and bite you you should be good to go. In the air you have a great opportunity to check this by slowing down, unlatching, and looking and feeling all these wear spots. Mention it to your mechanic at annual time.