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About TTaylor

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    Lives Here
  • Birthday May 5

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    Logan, UT
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  1. SPOT interference with GTN650 and GTN750

    I run the SPOT at 10 min tracking and have never had an issue. Mine sits on the far right side of the glareshield. I have used both a SPOT 1 and now a SPOT 3.
  2. State Registration

    Usually it is not a registration fee, but a user fee and personal property tax.
  3. I have a mix of investments including real estate. I sleep better knowing if the market goes to pieces I still have rental income as well.
  4. Hopefully three years away from "retirement". Just bought our retirement home on an airpark (UT47) last week, 1500 sq ft of shop and 2100 sq ft of hangar with a 45 ft hydraulic door. There is a house somewhere there as well. Enough room that I hopefully wont drive my wife crazy . I hope to keep a plane and a glider. One way to keep the cost of the airplane down is to find some partners if you need to. I can't imagine not flying, isn't that the reason to retire? . I figure I can go away and be a crazy scientist/engineer inventor in retirement. Also, in talks with an aircraft company to be a rep. I know I will stay busy, just on my own schedule. I may have to go find a J in need of rebuilding as a project as well.
  5. Mechanics upcharge for parts?

    Most that I have worked with have about a 20% to 25% up-charge. 65% as in this case is getting in to the abuse range.
  6. New Klixon switch covers

    You just send them to here:
  7. Tach and cable for '61 C

    I know you want the mechanical tach, but it is time to come out of the dark ages and use a simple electronic one. Cost difference is almost nothing after you get the mechanical tach and cable. The EI is so much better, gives you total time of flight, tach time, and digital rpm reading. As to the original question. The 2300 assumes you have a mix of cruise and lower rpm operations. This averages out to about 2300 rpm. Again a nice reason to use an electronic that only counts time when you are above 1800 rpm.
  8. New Klixon switch covers

    We have been looking at other options such as molding to produce a bunch. I need about 4 just in our plane. Not sure other than Mooney, what planes use them.
  9. I use a MakerGear M2 with dual extruders.  I just got some new black nylon from 3DXTech, which makes good stuff.  I have used many of their products to great success in the past.  Now I cannot get the black nylon to stick to the bed!  I may have to go back to my CF-filled nylon.  Also, I tweaked the original SolidWorks file to make it fit better.  I broke it into two files, one for black, the other for natural.  Before, when I imported the files, they immediately aligned perfectly without my input.  This time, they were disjointed, and I had to align them.  When the PLA printed, it made two passes for the white and looked beautiful.  With the nylon, the printer made numerous starts and stops, leaving a jagged edge.

    So, I will fight with it for a while.  Any suggestions?

    1. TTaylor


      Can't help with the odd slicer alignment.  With Nylon we have had to turn the bed heat off to prevent warping.  The nylon acts like a viscoelastic, and starts to pull back after printing.  What do you use for adhesive? We use hairspray (cheap ultrahold) that works well for setting the print.  

      One of my students has become very good at working with difficult prints.  I can ask him when he gets back next week. We have been working on a system for NASA and have done a lot of tweaks to get the nylon to work ok.



    2. Ah-1 Cobra Pilot

      Ah-1 Cobra Pilot

      I use Elmer's glue stick.  It is what came with my MarkForged printer. 

      I have never had this bad a problem on either printer.  The MarkForged has a phenolic-topped aluminum (I think?) bed that is not heated.  I run the M2 with a 45C PEI-topped bed.

      Whose nylon do you use?  At what extruder temperature?

  10. New Klixon switch covers

    We should be able to. We have an Ultimaker 3 with dual extrusion. I also have the hot head that can handle NylonX with carbon fiber.
  11. New Klixon switch covers

    I have a good printer that we are printing Nylon consistently if you need me to try a sample. We can print with Nylon and a filler material at the same time if needed.
  12. M20c rear window replacement

    With window thickness you have three options, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4. The original was 1/8". I went with 1/4 and would not recommend it for side windows. The 1/4" is much stiffer and makes installation more difficult and weighs twice as much as the original. If I was doing it again I would use the 3/16" for the side windows and 1/4" for the front. The solar grey is great. You can see the results in my photo album. It is not a difficult process, but takes time and patience. I did deviate from standard and used Dow 795 sealant. It has held up well and you can pick colors to match your windows or paint. It is modern sealant used for Windows in skyscrapers.
  13. Physics of frost

    It was more likely that moving the plane out from cover allowed it to be exposed to radiant cooling from black body radiation to the sky at that time of the morning. At 6:30 am the sun was likely not up yet, but just getting light to the east. The planes skin then cooled just enough to allow the condensation and frost formation. In any case, you were close enough to the freezing point that a mix of isopropyl alcohol (freezing point -128.2°F) would work well. As soon as the sun comes up it will melt a thin layer of frost off very quickly.
  14. One of the best improvements you can do is get a brighter bulb. Check that the bulb you have is the correct voltage and if you can find a bright LED replacement that would be even better.
  15. Looking for connectors

    Search SOLDER SLEEVE and Newark, Jamco, or Digi-Key. You will find them with the ground wire.