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bradp last won the day on September 13

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About bradp

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  1. Upgrade paths

    So I thought I'd provide a little update as to my panel revamp. So far I added a G5 PFD/AI this summer. Very happy with it. Rock solid and accurate altitude and airspeed depictions. I am currently installing: - GNS430W - GTX330 ES - PMA 8000 Bti - FS 210 The 430W and the transponder are essentially done. The only thing left for the transponder is tray riveting and configuration and a stack of paperwork. But I may get $500 back so we got that going for us ... which is nice. Splicing leads with a butane soldering gun in a 90 degree hangar is sporting. The audio panel was a "while we're in there" upgrade. I'll be able to route iPad alerts through and the little one can listen to her frozen - so everyone will be happy. I will need to rewire the Audio jacks and fashion a cover for the old intercom spot, son that will take some time. Overall the project is pretty "minimally invasive" surgery and coming along nicely. I made a harness for a GAD-29B to simplify installation of a G5 HSI (winter project). -Brad Harness for G5 HSI looking up every once in a while is healthy. Opened panel Transponder wiring (Gray code, power ground, lighting dimmer) ready for harness. New grounds needed to be made as the KT-76A grounds to the KMA-20s soldered grounding bar in its connector. Good idea but pretty impractical. Not exactly a future proofed design.
  2. gear sight glass replacement

    The bulb for the indicator is grounded to the same little metal frame that holds the plastic window in place.
  3. You want closed cell foam that won't absorb water. You want foam that slots in but doesn't sit against the steel tubular structure. Adding a vapor barrier in has its unintended consequence of trapping moisture between the foam and most likely the aluminum skin. Moisture anywhere is bad. Make sure the windows are water tight and this will do more to limit corrosion than any concerns about relative humidity.
  4. The evils of the Touch and Go

    I mentally prepare myself for a go around on every landing (almost akin to a pre departure brief for engine out). I am not opposed to T&Gs until I had this happen on an aborted landing that essentially became a touch and go: Summer day half tanks two adults. Somewhat gusty winds 3200x40 ft runway me with between 50 and 75 hours time in type full flaps there was some sort of object or encroachment that would have been nothing but I couldn't tell and decided to go around somewhere near my flare Off we go... but the flap limit switch was out of adjustment and the flaps wouldn't retract (Murphy's law) the aircraft really struggled to climb; concerningly so... and not enough runway to land again once I was able to get to the top of the white arc the flaps popped and retracted So now I don't really practice touch and gos unless I'm landing in takeoff configuration (half flaps) and have a boat load of runway. Mentally I prepare the sequence of items needed for a go around. And... for any runway where I'm a bit dicey on the wind I go with half flaps.
  5. Ground Power Unit

    Yetti - do you have a link for the McMaster plug - can't seem to find it. Thanks -Brad
  6. Replacement for Century C31 autopilot

    Replacement / sacrificial parts until the trutrak / G500 is available is what I'd do.
  7. What to do about radio tray rivets

    I figured it would be easiest to do the wiring while I had the tray out to get more access for my paws. Unfortunately once I got in there this is what I found: Literally a rats nest of crossed wires. From what I can tell most of the jumble was introduced by a single west coast avionics shop that the previous owner used. Harnesses crossing though the backs another etc. I'm at a bit of a crossroads to figure out how much digging and reorganizing I want to do. For the most part I'm thinking that if it's functional and in can keep my work separate and better organized than leave it alone. I don't want to render myself AOG because I get into something that I don't understand. Here are some splices I made to go with each of the KT-76As leads. There's one hanging down vertically in the picture above as a test to make sure it is feasible / practical to use solder splices. I needed some helping hands and a very small butane torch to get in the space, but the splices are quite neat and sturdy. Below are the rest of them to go on: And here's the labeled harness I made to go between the GTX330 and and 430W. One of the beechtalk avionics gurus says that he makes full wiring diagrams for avionics installations. I don't have solidoworks electrical to make graphical diagrams, but I have and excel. So I made a map of every connector on every main piece of avionics and I'll print that out and put it with the logs for the next go around. One thing I discovered is that there is only on AIRINC GPS out on the 430W. From what I can gather in the installation notes in the 330, this is required for the transponder installation. However, the 330 can serve as a data concentrator as send multiple AIRINC signals back out. I'm going to do the G5 HSI / autopilot over the winter, but the GAD29 will also rely on the same AIRINC that the transponder needs. So I'm coming to terms with the possibility that the HSI may be dependent on an output from the transponder - I don't like interdependence very much. Anyway- I'll make a harness for the GAD29 and dig around the back of the panel once instead of twice in the course of a few months. -Brad.
  8. What to do about radio tray rivets

    So in a cascade of previous crappy installations I noted the following: The right radio stack would need to come out to do this properly as Turbo stated. You need access to both sides of the rack and the surrounding "box". Unfortunately, in a series of previous installations, previous installers have riveted or bolted things in a domino pattern to whatever was next. To take down the entire panel would require me somehow figuring out how or why in the world the installer who did my engine monitor put the hex nut that releases the unit in a pretty much totally inaccessible orientation. My favorite was the screw for an air gizmos dock that was literally screwed into the side of an old KX-170B and it's associated rack. Mind boggling and lazy, but that's beside the point. The offending air gizmos dock was removed and the circuit breaker panel was pulled down, giving access to both sides of the rack. From there it was easy to drill the flush rivets with an extension. I hate drilling cherrymax. It's like a bad joke. They wont work because both sides of the rivet need to be relatively flush because they but up against the next thing in the stack. Rivnuts would result in the same. Best practice is probably to hand squeeze a standard countersunk rivet - issue is now that the stack holding the tray has been previous worked and drilled poorly, so I have two little figure eights to deal with. It's either going to require squeezing a bigger rivet than I want or drilling and countersinking new holes in the tray and the rack. Egads. Now I see why these things take so darn much time and where the "while were in there" mantra comes from. Also boo to Mooney for making this design not very user friendly.
  9. So I have an IA on the field who is willing to supervise me doing a 330ES for an ads-B upgrade. Now comes the planning phase... The old radio tray for the 76A - looks like has rivets of some sort. The tray seems to be fastened to the next tray. Anyone have tips about how best to drill these out - I have an old dremel tool with a flexible neck that probably won't fit a properly sized bit. I've seen flexible necks elsewhere. Should I replace with same type of squeeze rivet? A rivet nut into the next tray seems like a good idea (nothing seems to be fastened to anything structural in the panel in the vertical plane) followed by a countersunk flat screw. I think there a couple of folks on here that have changed trays. Most of the guidance I've found on the internet seems to be for the experimental guys building from scratch.
  10. Self-Install FS210?

    I'm doing mine probably next week. I'll let you know how it goes. I have a GDL-69 in the back so it makes the most sense to run the power off the same CB to both devices and install on the avionics shelf.
  11. Today's flight for 2017

    IGot to do an IFR currency flight and learn some of the local airspace a bit better. 4 approaches in 2.1 hours - almost all of it start to finish in IMC. It felt good to get some rust gone. IGX - Vor 27 then RDU ILS 05R then TTA ILS 03 x 2 Excellent ATC from RDU approach and Fayetteville. They seemed to enjoy me doing approaches to outliers as much as I did. Unfortunately I didn't pick my head up to take any photos. Ended up being busy for most of the flight (in a good way). There was a cool B-17 parked on the ramp. It's not leaving until Thursday so I'll hopefully get a chance to get a closer look soon.
  12. Best IFR Panel

    The best panel is the one that you know and gets you safely to where you want to go. Bradfuscious say.
  13. New drop-in LED bulbs from Whelen

    I wish they had made a plain white bulb too - would have been great for the coffe grinder and tail lights.
  14. Real pain. It's like a pleather skirt that has everything important passing through it in the most inopportune or locations. I thought it wasn't worth it.
  15. Gear Doughnuts

    As a doc who enjoys maintaining my aircraft, there are a lot of parallels between mechanics and doctors. I typically have the same mindset and level of focus when I'm doing say - an oil change - as I have when I'm say - doing a procedure for a child. Each done incorrectly or carelessly has a set of dire consequences. We've seen the MIFs outlined in previous threads. I'm happy to pay a fair price for competent work and more for excellent work. But you don't need to go to the "Mayo Clinic" of A&Ps to find a good mechanic. There are also $hit mechanics in huge fancy shops (or apprentices - kind of like the meds students of the mechnaic world). My latest mx mantra after being @&:$'d by a couple of big places in my short time as an aircraft owner. Find an independent, local A&P who you trust and develop a relationship with them. Treat them fairly and pay them for what they do and it will pay dividends in the long run.