67 m20F chump

I have talked to a MSC and the factory. Nobody will touch it. I’m on the fence about grabbing any available parts needed as they become available because it ain’t cheap, getting a 337 approved is a challenge, and nobody wants to do the job. I feel like I’m pissing in the wind here. I bought a nice cowl already but so far that is it.

It’s the engine baffles and oil cooler ducting, intake, cowl flap handle from inside the plane to where it attaches at the flap, tail pipe and hangar, spinner and backing plate, and the cowl. The parts where the cowl attaches are listed as shim in the manual. I think I should let this idea die but I still want to do it. You would also need a 337 and possibly a DER to sign off on it. I’m trying to get a FAA guy to give me a thumbs up on a 337. I ordered the records from the FAA on a couple of aircraft that had the swap done. On top of that I can’t find any A&P willing to take the job on. I think I should sell the Mooney and buy a Vans. Allen has a 80’s J that he is parting out but the engine and baffles are already gone. I could pick some parts from him but I want to be sure about getting a 337 before I sink more money into this black hole.

There used to be a STC to put a one piece belly panel on like newer aircraft had. Maybe LASAR?

I picked up my precut baffle material from Guy Ginby. Here is the picture. I run take off to cruise full rich cowl flaps open and climb out 500fpm. That keeps the temps in line. If I climb at a slower speed my oil temps get high and cht. The baffles are tight so I think this is as good as it gets. I’m using a EI 30 P+c for engine data so I think I’m getting good numbers.

I have one on my plane. The servo that retracts the step went bad soon after install. They replaced it fast and I have had no trouble since. I like the product and I think they have great customer service.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/windowsealant.php?clickkey=4115 3m strip caulk is sold at aircraft spruce. Works great for this. The product doesn’t harden.

I have used Gann Aviation in LaFayette Ga and Twin in Newnan Ga. I would use either of them again if I needed engine work. Gann posts prices on his web sight.

Alex, John has helped me out of a pinch more than once. I honestly can’t get over how much Mooney stuff he has. Allen Fox is another person to keep in mind.

Yes I went 64 gal. I think you would be fine with less capacity. No way at my age could I stay in the plane that long! You could always add those last two bladders later if you needed.

I had to replace my wing. The parted out one had spent ten years in a hot hangar empty. The sealant was coming off in chunks. I stripped off the pro seal and was just about to start in replacing it when I had a moment of clarity. I bought the bladder STC and have been happy with my decision. I never want to strip sealant again. I did the install with supervision and it is working out well so far.

I replaced the wing on my F. It was a big job and the only other option was parting her out.

How many deg. Nose up gives you a Vy climb? Mine is nose low in cruise and nose high when going slow. I want a garmin A/P so I can use the flight director.

On my 67’ the cable had slipped. It moved just enough that the door would always let heat into the plane.

Guy’s stuff is nice. I have used them on 3 airplanes and 4 engines. Satisfied customer.

My 67’ F runs hot oil temps when I’m running hard. The oil pressure also falls off at 215*. CHT’s are always good but I don’t have the dog house. I have the aft mounted oil cooler. I’m thinking about adjusting the cowl flaps a turn or so more open when in the closed position. So far I just power back or open the cowl flaps.

With that much time on the motor and that you are putting cylinders on it why not do an O/H now? I never had a turbo so thats why I ask.

10% of the yearly cost of having your airplane is tax. That is crazy.

I painted the wing on my plane. It was a huge PIA. I think it’s one of those jobs you want to pay a shop to do. I had some trouble with primer blisters. If the primer was still gassing off it lifted when I painted. This was my first try at painting. Epoxy clogs paper fast. If you can’t get the paint on fast I think I would scotch bright and clean then paint. I watched a ton of videos about painting before I did it. I also have some issues with the clear sticking on my stripes. The photo showed the worst of it.

My plane was done at that shop and 7 years later I was putting bladders in. Beechcraft may have been onto something when they put them into the bonanza. He does good work but it doesn’t take much to leak.

Here is a hint for builders. When you cut the feet save a chunk of that 3/8 scrap and put it under the center where the jack goes. It makes a small gap under the ram that helps when the floor isn’t level. After you weld one side remove the 3/8 scrap. I have made about 8 for friends over the years and so far everyone is happy.

https://www.csobeech.com/floor-jack.html The one by Russell S is what I made. It’s the second example on that link.

I think Tony sold that shop to a long term employee. I have had work done with them and been happy with it. Not inexpensive but good quality. I wouldn’t mind taking my plane to a shop farther from my home but they would need to have a stellar reputation.

Mine is doing the same thing but I haven’t had time to let the avionics shop look at it. One guy I talked to thinks the startup voltage of the roll servo is high. Post if you come up with a solution. Mine was working fine but started rocking back and forth on a 4 hour flight.

I haven’t been able to find anyone willing to do the cowl swap. The STC is dead.

I started keeping a log book of work I did under supervision of an A&P. I haven’t updated it in a long time. I’m thinking about building a Van’s. I will take a lifetime logging the time for the A and then the P.