N201MKTurbo

The airplane isn’t airworthy unless it meets the the provisions of the type certificate. The type certificate is based on part 23. The type certificate specifies the battery. The battery has instructions for continued airworthiness. If you don’t follow the instructions, you can’t prove the battery meets its specifications. when an IA does an annual, they are certifying that the airplane is airworthy. That means that it meets all the provisions of the type certificate.

23.1353 (h) In the event of a complete loss of the primary electrical power generating system, the battery must be capable of providing at least 30 minutes of electrical power to those loads that are essential to continued safe flight and landing. The 30 minute time period includes the time needed for the pilots to recognize the loss of generated power and take appropriate load shedding action.

Which battery do you have?

The FAA could give a rats ass about that. If you can’t start your plane, it is very safe. What they care about is how long it will power the avionics and other required loads after your alternator fails. That time is measured with a capacity test.

When I had my F and the oil door went to crap, I made a new door and put Hartwell latches on it. They worked great. They are probably still on it.

Once a long time ago, I had a truss repaired by a local mechanic. He called Mooney for the procedure. I recall the truss had to be sent out for heat treatment after welding.

As an Arizonan, if it is 83 out side, why do you need air conditioning? That’s almost 40 degrees below OAT.

Those are not capacity testers. Neither are the ones they have at the auto parts store. A capacity test takes between 1/2 hour and an hour to accomplish. The testers you mention just measure the voltage with a load on the battery.

Look in the ICA for the battery for the discharge current for the capacity test. Go to the auto parts store and buy enough headlight bulbs to get near the proper discharge current. Go on eBay and order a combination amp and volt meter that covers the current you need. The ICA will tell you the discharge voltage. Start it up. Write down the time, voltage and current every minute or two until the voltage goes down to the discharge voltage. Calculate the AH for each time interval and sum them up. Make a spread sheet for this. True CB battery capacity tester. <$50 https://www.ebay.com/itm/154414886759 You need about 500 watts of load. 5 of these is your cheapest route. They have spade lugs, so they are easy to connect. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h410080w

Every time I file from KSBA to KCHD they send me over PMD. If it is VMC I’ll get flight following so I can go direct. It saves about 10 min of flying.

Wow, they really got you! I have a spare truss, but you need a trunnion too.

Sounds like they kept the case and main shaft....

It depends where you have the trim set when you shut down.

That’s a good price. Last time I had mine done, it was $900

it is very tight in there. It is a PITA to get it out and put it back in. The biggest problem is the length of the spark plug wires. you can barely get the cap out of the way. If you undo the wires from cylinders 2 and 4, both top and bottom along with all their clamps and ties, it will make your life much easier. When you put it back in, put the gear in the engine and slide the mag into the cushions. Good luck finding the perfect combinations of sockets and extensions that allow you to swing a torque wrench. I use a deep 1/2" 1/4 drive with a 2" extension. Practice your cursing beforehand, you don't want to go into this unprepared.