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Posted

I went up yesterday in my 77 J model for the first flight after annual and I really wanted to see if replacing that tired old material with the new GeeBee baffle seals made any difference.  Previously I was never able to run at peak, or basically anything ROP due to CHT's climbing to 380 and above or else had to open the cowl flaps. So I got used to running LOP in cruise and enjoyed CHTs around 340-360 and I will continue to run that way, but I needed options to run more power.

Yesterday I was at 7,500 running 24/2500, 14deg C, and was able to run LOP, peak, 25 ROP, and 125 ROP and did not have to open the cowl flaps once so I am well pleased with the new baffle seals.

While I was at it I did the 3 direction GPS speed check a total of 3 times while 15 LOP, 25 ROP and 125 ROP. I got anywhere from 151 kt while 15LOP, to 156 kt while ROP, and that was only at 2500 RPM so she could go a little faster.

Sadly, it did confirm that my ASI is off.  The best Garmin 430 derived TAS was 147kt, while IAS was 130kt, and the 3 direction GPS speed check revealed 156.  So I figure my ASI was showing about 10kt slow during that test.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds nice, cool, and normal to me. 

Unless your ASI can calculate TAS, you should expect a 10kt slide at 7.5k ft with IAS. A simple pitot static test could verify the results.  Funny, unless you ask the tech/shop to test the ASI, there is really no FAR that requires a test of the ASI. Only the transponder and altimeter. 

-Matt

Posted

He makes a lot of products for Beech planes and quite a few others.  I bought one of his baffle seal kits thru Willmar many years ago but didn't know it was his kit at the time!  After ~700 hours of use it was still like new and I reused it with my engine overhaul.  He also made my Teflon hoses.

Posted

I found his product from an old thread here on MS.  I can PM his contact info if needed.  

Basically he has precut kits complete with installation hardware.  They installed at annual and the IA pleased with the product and hardware.  Oh and by they way, I chose BLUE which matched my color scheme, and got matching BLUE valve cover gaskets too.  Looks good and now everything matches.

Posted

I don't believe he does. His kits are available from Spruce so you could check there.

I don't see how it would be relevant though since he is selling standard baffle seal material that you can also by from spruce and elsewhere, plus he includes the hardware to install it. All he is doing is cutting the material to match the originals - which you verify as you install. His kit just saves the time of cutting them to match your originals.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Here's a before and after on my 78J.  My #4 will still approach 400 under high power climb but I haven't bent up the flange in front of the oil cooler yet.  All in all a heck of a lot better than before.  Where's a good place to buy the valve covers and how do you make sure to get the correct ones? Thanks

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Posted (edited)

I took the oil cooler ramp piece off completely.  I have still never seen mid scale oil temps 

Edited by jetdriven
Posted

Get the REAL gaskets from aircraft spruce for the angle valve io-360. 

They are the orange silicone gaskets made to fit. 

They will most likely be the last valve cover gasket set you will buy. 

Trimming the excess may be necessary for baffle fit...

-Matt

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, MB65E said:

Get the REAL gaskets from aircraft spruce for the angle valve io-360. 

They are the orange silicone gaskets made to fit. 

They will most likely be the last valve cover gasket set you will buy. 

Trimming the excess may be necessary for baffle fit...

-Matt

Yes.  100% agree.  Before we were done with my IO550N install, I made sure two things were done...among others:  Replace all the factory thin valve cover gaskets with the REAL gaskets, and then install 12 new Tempest iridium fine-wire plugs.  Re-torque the gaskets at annual.  Not even so much as an oil stain from any of the gaskets since install.

Posted (edited)

I don't like the real silicone gaskets on an IO-360.  The gasket squishes out from under the cover.  Then you over torque the cover to get it to seal, then it warps the cover.  Now it's not flat and the gasket is squished out.  Continentals use a cast aluminum valve cover so this is less of an issue.  I use the cork gaskets coated both sides with permatex aviation sealer. 

Edited by jetdriven
Posted

Either one isn't bad. A new cork gasket will last a long time too. 

I have found people just crank them down. The torque on the silicone gaskets is 1/2 that of the cork gaskets. I don't think anyone uses a torque wrench and that's where it goes down hill. 

50in lbs for the cork.

26in lbs for the silicone.

Byron, whatever happened to GeeBees group purchase of the baggage/cabin door seals?

-Matt

 

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