takair

As a couple of others have said, Foreflight offers a comment section as well. I have taken to reading those and rarely go to Airnav now. I have found they (Foreflight and Airnav) are more likely to publish simple, fact based comments than rants. Most of us can read between the lines and make a decision if we want to pay $40 for a drop off.. Takes 5 minutes to submit and it may provide some of the best leverage we have on fighting hidden fees. Just comment on what you paid and what services you received. Individuals can then determine if it is worth it to them for the mission they are flying.

The first question will be the condition of the baffles and baffle seals. It could be as simple as baffle seals being flipped the wrong way when the cowl was put on.

Has the jack screw been cleaned and lubed recently? That is the most important place to look.

I suspect it it has an influence. It is a simple check so can't hurt. I guess it comes down to our interpretation of rough. It can be quite subjective. You could be quite right, that it is normal to some degree with the heat on....but his roughness might be greater than your roughness. Wonder if we can come up with a good measure of roughness for these discussions.

We recently had another thread on idle mixture. When at approx 1000rpm, on the ground, smoothly pull mixture to idle cut-off. Ideally the RPM rise is between 0 and 50 RPM. If more than 50, your idle mixture is already rich and should be adjusted. This should give you a good starting point for troubleshooting.

I always add at 6, but I don't like my consumption. I do get oil out the breather. Do you add a quart at 5? Did you ever note what the difference in consumption is when filling to 6 vs 7? I may need to try that to see if I can do better.

I'm with RL that it may be shower of sparks. The contacts are possibly corroded and arched. Perhaps humidity makes it worse. The shower of sparks is one of the most ignored part of our aircraft and makes a night and day difference in starting. I suffered through hard starts for a long time until I cleaned the contacts in the unit. Rather easy job if you still have the hatch in front of the windshield. One way to tell if it is shower of sparks related is that the engine tends to buck and bang a little just as it starts up.

The information in the article is quite dated despite its 2016 post date. The reference to Version 2 is the DO-260B version which is what all of the modern units offered for sale should comply with. Early adopters with 260 or 260A likely need to upgrade prior to 2020....including most of those capstone aircraft. I suspect the info in the article may have been pilfered from an even older article... I suspect ADS-B is here to stay.

I'm sure Paul would agree, you just have to be careful not to dent your truss by exceeding turn limits. You have a tremendous amount of leverage with a tug...or a truck.

I did my rear windows last week with 35%, which is lighter than the 20% you used. Came out ok. I did notice that there is a very slight distortion to vision that I have not seen in regular tint. I don't think it is from application error, as it is smooth, with no bubbles. Have you and others using the cling on tint noticed this? I am hesitant to do the fronts because of this. Also, I wonder if they have a slightly lighter tint for the front...have not seen any. Feels like it may cut night vision a little too much.

Try turning the intercom off to see if it changes the symptoms. She may be hearing a different issue altogether.

I was just looking at the overhaul manual. There are numerous opportunities within the magneto to have a bad terminal or contact and that may make it look like the capacitor is out of the circuit. Some of the terminals are simple friction type. Anyway, if it comes to taking the magneto off again, I would have them look at each terminal to make sure they are clean and tight. This is a tough one. Hope you find an answer soon. As a side note, the handheld can be somewhat misleading, as they tend to be more sensitive to noise and are not part of the same ground circuit as the airframe. It is a good test, but not always perfect.

I am thinking you have another issue that is complicating this. It seems odd that you would get so many bad caps, with symptoms that are so peculiar. It seems that we would hear about it more often. Often, with electrical noise, when something makes it go away, but it comes back, you are dealing with a bonding issue that has somehow been manipulated in troubleshooting. I know you had said you have the ground strap on the engine, but I have seen these attached inappropriately. In one instance I ran into one the was attached to the engine mount bolt that went through the rubber mount. It would pick up an adequate ground to read good with an ohm meter, but not adequate for true bonding. A couple of things come to mind with overhauled mags. Is it possible that the mating surface has paint on it? (Well...just thought about it, there is a gasket...but get a good bond with the clamp) It just seems like you are not completing a circuit somewhere. I am also still curious if you have showter of sparks. I know that it does not normally cause noise like that, but perhaps in some failed condition it sets up a harmonic. It would be interesting to isolate the wire from the mag....although it would be difficult to start. Also, I don't know that the entire ignition switch has been ruled out. They have failed on occasion and they do provide the ground to the p lead. Can't quite tell you the failure mode, but it is worth considering or ruling out. I know a couple of EE guys across the field from you who might be willing to help and are quite good at solving odd electrical issues. PM me if you are interested and I can reach out to them....you likely already know them.

Very interesting history lesson between Roger and Dave. Good stuff! Dave....you must have a most interesting office to have "newspapers" with this type of history. Are you a historian as well? I guess I didn't know or appreciate that Al Mooney went so far back!

Joe Trying to understand your findings. Was the mixture thumb screw all the way to one extreme (full lean?)? Do you think it was adjusted there to offset a failing servo or do you think it vibrated there? Also, curious where the fuel was coming out of, was it the front? Thanks for keeping us in the loop. It adds to our "database" of troubleshooting knowledge.