takair

I agree, I suspect that the Lycoming numbers are on a Dyno with optimal intake airflow and straight pipes. Glad it helped. I find it convenient in flight to figure alternate power settings or verify %HP without that feature on my old analyzer.

I use an app called “Aircraft Power” where you can enter your engine and parameters to get various power combinations. Have not fully validated its accuracy, but it seems reasonably correct.

Any chance the logs are sitting in the baggage area or a nearby locked cabinet?

As I recall, a similar scheme was reported a few years ago....can’t recall where....

Aviation Crime Prevention Institute.....http://mobile.acpi.org.....but I’m not sure where they get info..... There is a form to be filled out there too, so worth reporting there...

http://aea.net/stolenequipment/ It would be great if they made this list public, but at least avionics shops can view the list prior to tagging equipment.

I will occasionally partially extend the flaps when new people are boarding. Older hydraulic equipped flaps should not be left full down. This picture from the manual.

Another thing to check is the gascolator. There have been reports of the gasket drawing air under the lower pressure of the fuel pump suction, but not actually leaking fuel. I suppose the drain could have similar effect. Not sure how one troubleshoots that except by removing the bottom and checking the gasket. In my friends case the problem got worse with increased altitude and full power.

I believe that it is getting in through the small static port holes and there is a simultaneous barometric pressure change that draws it in further. The Mooney static ports seem smaller than most so create a good seal with just a little water.

Diaphragm style pump, so maybe....

Can you describe the actual symptoms in more detail?

Flaps (Too low or too high), elevator, stabilizer, rudder, ailerons (are they streamlined in flight?, rod end wear), gear hanging down, geardoors hanging down, cowl flaps, engine baffles, These are all very real And significant contributors that are routinely neglected and can add up to multiple knots. Some of it requires rigging fixtures, but gross errors are detectable and are typically the major contributors.

I sometimes see a little under 2700, depending on oil temp. And the type of oil.....maybe 2680 instead of 2700....but speeds are still good and I attribute it to tach accuracy variation and governor technology and condition. Use of a second tach might be helpful here. There is a good app called “Engine RPM” that is easy to use and fairly accurate. You do have to pay for it. I don’t think mag timing will cause significant reduction in cruise speed. My E has (had....SureFly now) 20 deg timing and speeds were still over 150TAS. As I mentioned previously, rigging is a major factor. Gear

It might depend on your local ATC. In our area....near NY....they will sometimes reject such a plan....or not clear you if they are busy and not taking “training” flights. I find it frustrating! The work around seems to be to file for your first stop and then start negotiations once airborne. Worst case you make a full stop landing and file back home, best case you get a few approaches and head home IFR....or some combination. I would suggest trying KCHD-KCHD and put your request in the comments.... if they give you a hard time, then try the work around above.

The only way I can think of to verify what the timing is set to is by doing a mag timing check with pretty basic equipment that all mechanics have. To me, the best way to verify cruise speeds is by comparing equal power settings to other J models. I would suggest getting a true airspeed reading at 5000 to 7000 feet, 75% power.......approximately 2500 RPm And 100 ROP. I would expect a J model to be above 160ktas.....J model folks can give better numbers. If you are making less than 150ktas at 75%, then there is a problem....with something. Could be rigging, gear doors, engine....etc.