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takair

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takair last won the day on August 31 2018

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About takair

  • Birthday 11/04/1968

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    http://www.flightenhancements.com
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    flytakair@yahoo.com

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    Oxford, CT
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    Aviation
  • Reg #
    N7125U
  • Model
    M20E

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  1. I am not aware of an off the shelf solution for a 64 Mooney. I am thinking you would need new baffles, new cowl…or cowl mods, and at a minimum a field approval for your year….which is the same year as mine. You might source those parts from a later model Mooney, but then you might as well go all out and do a 201 cowl mod.
  2. It appears to me that 1967 and on had silicone baffles. It also appears that you have the cowl that is meant for them. Is it possible someone actually went backwards on your plane and added the dog house? At a quick glance, it seems that you could do this as a log entry to match the manual for your year.
  3. Unfortunately they are nothing like the J. It is something to avoid pre-J….especially since it beats up the unobtainable inlet duct.
  4. Yes, that’s what the reinforced version looks like. Mine is just ~.032 and would bulge and crack at the screws. You would just have to get the seals to align and it seems like it would work well. I would think it’s somewhere between a field approval and a minor alteration. Did all C models have the dog house? E models transitioned from it.
  5. I’ve looked at doing it in my 64 E every time I have to rebuild some part of the dog house. I think the 64 would need either a new cowl or some reinforcement. It is very thin sheet metal. Later model Es, with silicone seal baffle had reinforced upper cowl. Without it, I think the sheet metal would crack, not unlike the doghouse.
  6. Ironically, this is a policy even at some of the big aerospace companies. A few years ago, I tried to lobby AOPA to consider this as an opportunity to grow the pilot population, but didn’t get any traction. I suspect that during GAs prime time….the 50s to 70s….much of the pilot population used their airplanes for corporate travel. Liability took this privilege.
  7. I have been having similar issues and have sent notes to Foreflight. One thing they pointed out is that the radar overlays are no longer automatic. So, when connected to Stratus, one must select “ADS-B” radar. Well, that helped a little, but I am still seeing things like you are. Last flight I started dropping traffic in NY airspace. Would have to recycle. I pointed out to FF that my buddy had a different app with no issue, they thought he was knocking me off the stratus……but with no warning? (In that case it appeared I was fully connected to Stratus and ADS-B)Anyway, I’ve been flying Foreflight and Stratus for a long time with no issues, so I’m thinking this is a bug in one of the recent updates….but I don’t think I have been convincing. Edit: In your case, check the overlays when connected to Stratus…..but I think the problem goes beyond that. I also learned something from you…..I didn’t know I could tap the time and see what’s missing….this will be very helpful in the future! Thanks…
  8. @M20Doc…..I know there is the SB on the older Mooneys for the spacer…..but I also seem to recall that the collar on top is asymmetrical, and if installed upside down can cause the same geometry problems that cause the darty behavior and possible shimmy. Do these things apply to long bodies?
  9. When the live ATC recording pick up and ATC clears the aircraft to BEGKA, and the aircraft turns NW….I wonder if they had simply mis-entered BECKA instead. This is a fix in the general direction the aircraft turned. I’ve certainly misheard or misdialed fixes in the 430. I know one could have just set up the procedure and pulled it that way, but perhaps they did it manually instead when given the fix. Not that this would be a direct reason for the accident, but I know these things can set up for some anxiety that can carry through the flight. Edit: only hearing half of the conversation on recordings I’ve heard, so hard to know what was read back to ATC….but BEGKA and BECKA can certainly sound similar.
  10. Imagination and ignorance. Ignorant of the fact that there was a certified solution and I had imagined someone adapting and threading the existing plug…. Not legal, I know. Glad yours is good. Sorry for the diversion.
  11. Sorry flyingDude. I hate doing that plug even without the heater! I honestly had never known there was a Tanis heater option for that. I thought someone had adapted one of the giant automotive heater probes which really could have filled the volumn of the screen.
  12. My post wasn’t clear. I was suggesting two possibilities. First was simply if the heater probe was big enough it could reduce flow through the screen and reduce volume of oil in and thus pressure out. The other was that there is a gasket involved that is often forgotten. That is the sump to accessory case gasket which acts as a passage. If it is damaged it can allow air to be drawn in there. I don’t really think that is your issue, but it is something to be aware of if other causes are exhausted.
  13. As I think about this some more, the fuel tank pickups are lower, I think. If the float valve in the carb is leaking, then I think that it could allow fuel to drain back to the tank. The float valve would normally act as a check valve preventing this. (?). On the other hand, when the pump is running, assuming fuel in the system, a leaking float valve can cause the carb bowl to overflow and leave stains at the airbox. This is what I believe is happening to my friends RV. He has had the plane for 20+ and it only developed the symptoms recently. Will need to think through a little more, but could this be happening to the OP? Other symptoms in the RV include difficulty priming and starting, and on most recent flight…. engine roughness on takeoff, which may have been from excess fuel….that was when we discovered fuel coming from the airbox when boost pump was on. Generally speaking it has similar plumbing as a Mooney.
  14. For process of elimination (oil pressure issue vs oil loss issue), and along the lines of what Eric suggested above, has the screen been examined of late for junk? Higher oil level could do two things. It could increase the head pressure a little to the oil inlet. It could also help plug a suction leak at the gasket on the inlet side to the oil pump. This is a passage from the sump, through the sump gasket and into the accessory case passage, so, the gasket is actually part of the flow path. In the situation I mentioned previously, the gasket leak was intermittent, it depended on the suction and would occasionally pull air and oil pressure would drop. It’s a long shot, but possible.
  15. I’m picturing a rod style heater down the center of the screen. Seems this would cause a reduction in oil volume that could flow through there?
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