takair

They always seemed small to me too. The top ones are in tension too...so just threads holding things together. Al must have done a good job though, never heard of one fail....and I think they use the same bolts for even the big engine conversion...so my little 200hp should do all right.

Cant quite tell what you are pointing out in the picture, but I suspect you are talking about the small lever that control air-flow to the avionics cooling plenum. Is it attached to a smaller diameter scat tube (about 1")?

I recall my float touching bottom, with full range to the top of the tank. The arm is often lightly bent for adjustment. Do you have pictures of your set-up? You sure you have the correct float assemblies?

Keep in mind that the existing switch doubles as a circuit breaker, so you would need to add a circuit breaker if using a regular switch.

I'm curious, wouldn't 25 ROP and 25 LOP put out the same heat for the heater? Same temperature...

Corrected, thanks.

Thanks for the plug, Anthony! As a note, our electric actuator kit for the crank replacement includes a new extension spring. This could likely be used on the pneumatic conversion, replacing the flat spring. So, for those ordering our pneumatic conversion kit, if you have spring problems, let me know. Don’t know that our spring would work for a purely pneumatic system, since it requires more of a pull to overcome and get the step up.

16”. The slide is likely dirty and/or the extension Spring is compromised.

The crack, as posted by the OP and a second one that I posted, may just be the tip of the iceberg. In my case the flame tubes were also gone. Now, this is an even more controversial discussion. Is a muffler airworthy once the flame tubes are gone? I am told that the flame tubes are there to control inconsistent heating of the case which causes warping and cracking. So, while the crack could rather easily be welded, the question becomes how soon the next one starts? Do you knowingly put the muffler back on with burned flame tubes? I’ve been trying to get a reasonable answer on this for a while, but not much luck. I even thought that one shop was building a muffler without the tube, but could not find them. Another consideration is that the back of the weld can not be cleaned prior to welding. This leads to potential contamination which leaves a poor weld that can then just cause the crack to reopen or migrate. I think it amounts to a judgement call on the overall condition of the exhaust. If it is low time and most components look good, including the flame tubes, it is likely worth welding. If you have over 500 hours....or 1000 hours, you may be on borrowed time. If you are paying to have the exhaust removed and installed, consider the overall cost of pulling it again in a few hundred hours. Unfortunately, when you send the system out, the sandblasting also thins the metal and usually reveals issues with the risers and tailpipe as well. With the number of CO incidents each year, I can understand why IAs take the more cautious route and push for an overhaul. I feel better about my exhaust, knowing I don’t have to worry about the next crack for a few years...or so I hope. In the meantime....I’m going to research the damned flame tubes some more.

Posting this for a friend: For sale, white composite spinner with bulkhead and stainless steel screws. Part number 103585(F1). Will fit Hartzell HC-C2YR prop and others. Used 2.5 hours and swapped back for polished spinner. $585.00. Call Jack at 860-274-4647.

Cody Like Clarence, I was originally trained to pump until grease came out the opposite fitting. Then, Hartzell said don’t do that with aluminum hub props, pump only a few ounces, not to exceed some number of pumps (the number escapes me at the moment). This is because pumping more might force grease into the dry cavity in the prop and this can affect normal operation. I assume purging is similar...pump until old grease is out. Do you find grease in props where it should not be? I paid the price doing an annual years ago where I pumped until it came out the cross port and the owner checked with Hartzell who said the prop needed tear down....so the annual became a freebie. I’ve been really cautious about following the manual ever since. Also, my understanding was the aero shell 5 can be mixed with 6, as long as you follow the temperature restriction. So, the ultimate question is....is it better to purge all the grease and risk the grease going in the wrong part of the prop or better to fly with a mix of aero shell 5 and 6? By the way, thank you for taking the time to educate us. These props are expensive and small missteps can cost us. I too understood that the overhaul requires grinding, which eats into blade life. Rob

Hmm, interesting. Mine is older than yours (64) and I have a rotating flap heater on the engine side of the firewall and a slider for fresh air on the cabin side. My friends 63 C has a slider, like you describe, on the firewall side. Be sure your mechanic is looking at the right valve...

I have a couple of ridges in my paint as well. No speed reduction, but I too would like to knock them down, would love to hear from a painter on that subject. Regarding rigging, that’s my guess, but maybe not the primary surfaces. Others mentioned gear doors, that one is hard to get right, and they were likely removed during paint....so worth jacking and checking. When mine got painted, I found the hinge bolts were finger tight. Also, check flap droop, the stops may now have paint on both surfaces and may cause some fractional amount of droop, which could be worth a little speed.

I’m curious, did you shut heat off and continue to get CO? You may want to check the heater box seals as well. Many leak as they age and then you have no way of isolating. When they leak, you feel heat year round....so added benefits in summer.

Just found a near identical crack in my muffler at annual. Got the same one month quote from Dawley. Called AWI and had an overhauled exhaust less than two weeks later. Best sending in risers too for jigging. Mine ended up needing overhaul as well. Quality seems really good and the fit was perfect.