takair

I think many of the old gears are out of service (Lycoming hasn’t made them in ages), so it would have to be an engine with the old gear and some bad luck in the clocking....tolerance stack up I suppose. Many experimental have new or newer engines.

Tab 8 of this thread has some more info on the gear for those experiencing this. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/28136-surefly-certified/page/8/?tab=comments#comment-493491

I may have been one of the first to run into this. SureFly worked with me and even sent a new unit to see if it was a clocking issue at assembly. We finally figured out the gear issue and they sent the newer version of the gear and it was all resolved. Regarding the break in of the gear, they are well oiled and likely not a major concern. I think the new gear is the path of least resistance. Regarding the MAP hose, there are a couple of threads with images of various ways to accommodate it. I can appreciate the frustration, but at the same time it can’t be easy to design a system to adapt to over 60 years worth of aircraft of varying manufacture and configuration. I’ve been rather happy with mine after the initial installation issues. Cold starts are near automobile like, hot starts are more consistent.

The restriction plate is supposed to be there. It was an SB to protect the exhaust pipe from cracking, as I recall. The cooler should likely be warm. How hot is your oil? If over about 185 the cooler should be getting warm.

As far as sealing the cooler, you can try it temporarily without pulling the cowl or cooler and it can get you some data. I had CermiNil before and now nitride and oil temps run about the same. 180-190. Looking back to when I had the higher temps, I think it was a combination of things that got them lower, the last was a new cooler. I think I ended up with a Niagara. Will look up later.

Skip Is it by chance caused by the door seal? You may just be taking up the gap caused by a good seal which pushes the other edge out. If the latch pulls it in and you don’t have leaks, this may be a good thing. I suspect that checking the door contour is best done without a seal in place.

Turbine M22 would be cool. I have personally speculated that one that hasn’t flow in a while was in for conversion, but that was many years ago and I never heard more. What about this: http://griggsaircraft.com/fabrication/silver_eagle? Or check out the Speedstar article here: https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2011/september/01/family-rocket This one was for sale, still may be. Looks kind of interesting and fast. Lots of pics if you google it, but not much detail.

This may or may not help, but check the fit of the top and bottom of the cooler to the cowl. You may get a few degrees by sealing it. Did it many years ago chasing high oil temp and it seemed to help, just can’t recall how much. I think your D install is similar to my E.

Two a mooney designs!? Tell us more about the Culver! That’s so cool.

Just move it up to the wall, it then becomes art.

....also, with my bladders, when level....if you JUST barely see fuel in the tank, you have under 10 gallons. If you can’t see anything assume you have less than 7 gallons. Not a perfect art, but line guys may call you out on landing empty when you may have 2 hours to empty. Don’t take off like that, but you may land like that and catch some rubbing from the line guys.

One more thought on bladders. When I had my bladders done by the OEM, they gave me hand made sticks for the bladders. I can try to get the dimensions next time at the airport, PM me a reminder. Another thing with my bladders. They take a loooong time to settle. The pass throughs don’t pass fuel quite as fast as the original tanks, so if you don’t wait at least 20 seconds after you think you are topped off, then next time you stick them they will seem low. The stick I have is reasonably accurate when level. The best way to know for sure is to top off again from a known top off.

Sticking the tanks level is critical. Very few ramps are level and variations will cause big differences out at the caps. You will also likely find that the gauges are not linear. Your apparent burn rate will be quicker below half tanks, so be aware of that and use caution the first few trips. This is due to tank geometry, especially since the senders are not well matched to bladders.

On the thought of baffling, the “wings“ that are on the outboard upper side can be troublesome. I think they originally slipped under the vertical pieces Where they were bent, but many are screwed over the top. If they are not secure enough, they will look fine but the pressure in the dog house will cause the edges to lift and bleed lots of cooling air. If you are willing to expose your engine to us and our critique, can you post some pictures of the install. Sometimes someone can pick up something that is not immediately obvious in words.

Two other thoughts. Have they checked mag timing? While it would affect all cylinders, a few degrees might get you below 400 on number 3. Another thing to look at with a new jug is the valve clearance. Sometimes need to swap pushrods to get the clearance correct. While I can’t explain high CHT as easily as an EGT anomaly, it might be worth asking.