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About takair

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    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday 11/04/1968

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    Oxford, CT
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  1. Super-21 was the early designation for the E. At some point they changed to Chapperal. They are really all Super. 64 was the first year and only year with round windows. I love mine, but they do look more vintage and have more screws to remove to get at the engine. If I were buying today, I would be looking at gear condition and corrosion. If there is not routine gear work done, then you will likely need to have some done. Leaky tanks as well. Are you in the city? Lots of us nearby. What airport will you be based at?
  2. It's calibrated pain so you don't exceed the duty cycle of the starter. When it hurts, the starter is overheating. When the pain goes away, the starter has cooled. The duty cycle reduces and pain increases with each cycle until the battery dies, at which time there is a long cool down and pain recovery cycle. There may or may not be an advisory circular supporting this design feature.
  3. Can't speak to other Mooney's, but I can get mine to go off consistently with just me and light or heavy on fuel. Prior to correcting the switch it was intermittent, but that was years ago. If it is not going off before break, I would still argue that something is not correct. I don't rely on it, but it is nice to know it is in the background and is intended to help us when distracted. The buffet on my 64 is noticeable and, in my opinion, is adequate to detect the pre-stall condition, even without the horn. This assumes standard, straight ahead, practice stalls. Start doing accelerated stalls and all of the warning times are much reduced.
  4. The 64s and older have to be the worst for access. As others said, the cowl sides are screwed in. I can change the oil and filter by only removing the side cowls. In fact, I can do most work, including exhaust inspection, alternator replacement, etc through the side cowl. That said, it is a "choose your poison" effort. It does not make it fun either way. I try to keep the bottom cowl on to extend the life of the air inlet boot. They take the most damage during maintenance. Removing the oil cooler every time also sets you up for more frequent potential cracking of the cooler flanges. So, while all of these things are possible, I can appreciate the "stigma" that the Mooney is tightly cowled and more difficult to work on. Would love to have one of the newer two piece cowls.
  5. I did have an intermittent switch that I finally had to replace. It would appear to work on the ground after one or two flicks, but would not always work in the ear. A new (used) switch cured the issue. It typically goes off before the buffet, but when you are light, it can be at a surprisingly low speed and high angle of attack. Let us know how your next test works.
  6. Not sure. I always wondered...might be why I haven't actually added it as ballast to the airplane. Perhaps someone here has actually tried it?
  7. Landed twice with a flat nose tire, same runway, same airport. The shimmy is quite violent in the pedals. In both cases I made it partially off the runway due to a convenient taxi way, but could not make it all the way off. Tower shut that runway down. There was plenty of prop clearance, but I was afraid of breaking something in the steering. FBO had a Lectro type tug that lifted the nose gear. Main tire would likely require more work. I keep saying I will throw a can of fix a flat in the plane simply to clear a runway if this happens again. It could be a disaster at an uncontrolled field at night. This thread is a reminder for me to do just that. In both cases it was a pinhole leak....tire was fine at takeoff and flat upon touch-down. Oh, I started to become superstitious, both events took place near the graves in runway 10 at Savannah/Hilton Head International. Yes, graves. They are marked and visible if you know where to look.
  8. Conrad Could you feel the buffet well before the wing dropped? Were you able to get it to sound with the instructor?
  9. Don't have anyone do that unless you are jacked up. The force to move the nose wheel while on the ground, without movement will eventually break a weld. Moving the rudder alone won't make the piston go back in, you are pushing against a flexible cable. You can simply push the piston into the housing. With the rudder straight, the face will roughly be flush with the lip. You can also start the engine and have someone look inside, or shut down without turning the rudder and look inside to insure they are tensioned. As for the pump, you can try to get a salvage regulator and put it in line. I don't think I would want to use the one in the aircraft to drop that much differential.
  10. If I don't have to make repairs, I plan two full days for airframe and two days for engine and paperwork...so about 4 solid days. That said, there is always something to do so it is usually 5 long days for minor fixes. I think 10 working days planned is reasonable for a shop, assuming there are some things needing attention. Owner assist would vary by person, familiarity, hours spent, chit chat, etc.
  11. I think you are talking about the short length of cables between the servo and the push-pull tube. These are essentially self tensioning. When the servos have vacuum on them, the piston essentially disappears (like a scared turtle) into its cylinder. When you shut down and move the plane, they can pop out and the cables look loose. I suspect you have a leak somewhere. Leak check is the next step, ideally with a portable vacuum system.
  12. It is unique to the MK12D. My Garmin behaves normally.
  13. It is odd that the squelch did not work for you. I use it every flight to set the volume. Try 121.5 as well. This frequency always has the squelch broken. It actually makes it a pain to monitor guard with the squelch always broken.
  14. Going to try again. I would MUCH rather be in a Mooney in turbulence than a 172. I was overthinking the answer previously. Regarding going high, that is not always an option, especially given our local NY airspace and the shorter legs we may do in New England.
  15. I guess it depends what you mean by better. As Chris said, you are going faster, so that makes a difference. In older planes like mine, the yellow arc is lower than more modern Mooneys, so you are supposed to slow down more. I find that I do it naturally, when it gets bumpy the jolts can get uncomfortable at high speeds. The Mooney wing is one of the stiffer wings out there. I do find comfort in that, but it does transfer the bumps into the cabin vs. aircraft where the wings flex more. As you slow down to 172 speeds, it probably has a similar feel, you just stay in the bumps longer.