Any tips for performing Oil change?

[Greg252AY]

Doing my first oil change on my 252 this weekend. Any tips for removing and installing the cowl? Is the bottom cowl able to be handled by one person or am I going to need a helper? 

[Mooneymite]

I think we need a sticky post on "Oil changes".

This is an ever popular topic.  Lot's of folk have great suggestions for the "dripless" oil change.

A quick search of old posts won't necessarily turn up all the good ideas/suggestions.

[Greg252AY]

I probably should have used a different thread topic, because the tip I'm looking has more to do with removing and installing the cowl on my 252. I did a search on cowl removal and didn't come up with anything. 

[Bob_Belville]

Not sure how much different the 252 cowl is from my old M20E. The vintage cowl lower panels are very light. The top is also a one man job though a second person might be helpful the first time or two. It's not that heavy but it is a little awkward to keep from bumping something. 

[Shadrach]

 the "dripless" oil change.

an elusive if not mythical beast...

[Shadrach]

I probably should have used a different thread topic, because the tip I'm looking has more to do with removing and installing the cowl on my 252. I did a search on cowl removal and didn't come up with anything. 

I've never had a K model apart, why would you need to remove the lower cowl for an oil change? The lower cowl on the old birds is a major PITA that I only remove when absolutely needed. 

use the search function, I'm sure cowling questions have been asked!

[DonMuncy]

I remove and replace my K model cowling by myself often. It is a bit of a pain, but definitely doable. I assume you know the top cowling comes off easily. I have a small padded stool that slides under the lower cowling with a few inches clearance. Disconnect the cowl flap rods and the landing light wires. Undo all the cam-locks and lower the cowling onto the stool and roll it out from under the engine. (The only worry here is to be careful not to scratch up the spinner.

To replace, carefully roll the lower cowling back under the engine. I use a couple of wires (coat hanger wire or so). Hook one side about the fore-aft center, pull it up near where it belongs and hook it. Go to the other side and repeat. The tricky part is fitting the top rear where the outer part goes outside and the inner part goes inside. (You will understand when you see it) Pull one side in place and attach one cam-lock near the top. Go to the other side and repeat. Then it is easy setting the rest of the cam-locks (Remember the two in the bottom center, and don't forget to reattach the landing light wires.)

[OR75]

Safety wire ..... it's like duct tape

best to remove the lower cowl with the help of someone else (if you don't want to scratch the prop and stress the cowling)

but if you are on your own .... unlock the fasteners on one side and keep the cowling very loosely in place with a piece of safety wire going through the cowling holes  so that it won't fall ...... go work on the other side ... easier to do than to describe but I think you get  the idea

 

 

[Greg252AY]

Don, OR75, 

Thanks for that info on the bottom cowl. I am going to get someone to help hold the cowl for my first time and use your advise to help keep from scratching cowl and or prop. Thanks again, Greg

[mikesideup]

Don't forget the turbo induction tube/ hose  there is an access door located on the lower cowl on the right side. You will need to disconnect the clamp before the cowl will drop. When reinstalling is when the fun begins! Try to keep the hose from bunching up as you work the cowl in place. I used a curved pick to work the hose up on to the housing . It is a real PITA but gets easier after a few cowl removals.

[DonMuncy]

Don't forget the turbo induction tube/ hose  there is an access door located on the lower cowl on the right side. You will need to disconnect the clamp before the cowl will drop. When reinstalling is when the fun begins! Try to keep the hose from bunching up as you work the cowl in place. I used a curved pick to work the hose up on to the housing . It is a real PITA but gets easier after a few cowl removals.

That must be a 252 thing. My 231 doesn't have this problem.

[PaulB]

My experience removing the bottom cowling of my J has been that it is doable by myself but usually takes 5 minutes of holding it up in place with one of my knees while i dance back and forth around the prop getting the side lined up.  Once this is done the rest is easy.  Best tip I have for a dripless change is to hook up the drain and come back the next day to take the filter off.

[mikesideup]

Mine was actually a trophy 262 so I could be wrong ! I was once.

[Yooper Rocketman]

When doing my Rocket, the first item of business is to wrap the spinner and lower two blades of the 3 blade prop with an old flannel shirt.  I use the "arms" of the shirt to tie it around the spinner, pulling it up around the back edge too, protecting the full spinner and vulnerable areas of the prop from the lower cowl scratching it.  Then I do as Don described, I have a empty cardboard box that I set on top of a large piece of carpeting, with an old thick bedspread laid over the box for the cowl to rest on as I remove it.  I need to disconnect my TKS "Ice light" as well before dropping the cowl.  

On reassembly, I use the carpeting to slide the cowl under the engine, then raise it up and install my padded box under it.  One thing to be careful of is sliding the center bottom up to the mount flange on the fuselage, as it is really easy (on mine) to catch the "turn limit indicator", trapping it under the cowl flange.  Not sure if that's just my plane or if all of the K models have the same problem.  Don notes the top rear cowl issue of a slot that needs to be engaged during installation.  I fought getting the cowl to fit the slot and finally resigned to allowing the cowl to overlap the outside of the fuselage while I fitted the front inside the spinner.  Then using both hands, one at the top rear edge of the lower cowl and one pulling briskly on the center of the side edge on the cowl, I bow the side of the cowl until I can tuck the rear edge into the slot.

The only added item I would say is to be careful to not scratch the fuselage during the removal and installation.  The last thing I've done (sometimes) is to lay a rag over the top rear edge of the lower cowl (on each side) so if it hits the fuselage, it doesn't scratch anything.

This all said, yes it's much easier to accomplish with two people.  But sometimes you have to do it without help.

Tom 

 

[Yetti]

For lower cowl installation on a F, used a bottle jack with 2x6 with a hole the size of the top of the jack drilled in it.  Put some cushioning on it.  then just jack up to position.

[CCowboy]

On my 231, the lower cowl really needs 2 persons to to this without risking bending or damaging anything.  What I do is "recruit" anyone around the airport for the 2 min it takes to do the removal/replacement.  I have used my  wife, pilots hanging around the hangars, or flight students from the flight school next door.  Although one could rig up a stool, coat hanger holders, etc, just get a bystander, it just requires a good pre procedure briefing on what to do, which isn't much.  

[ryoder]

I don't get it.  What is so hard about removing a lower cowl?  Did Mooney change it for the worse?  The C lower cowl is so easy to remove but the upper is kind of a pain but definitely doable by anyone by themselves.

[Hank]

Our cowls are 4 pieces:  upper, L & R cheeks, lower. I've only taken off the Lower one time. The long bodies have a two-piece cowl, upper and lower. I made a PowerPoint for changing oil, but it wouldn't work well on the two-piece cowl.

[ArtVandelay]

Our cowls are 4 pieces:  upper, L & R cheeks, lower. I've only taken off the Lower one time. The long bodies have a two-piece cowl, upper and lower. I made a PowerPoint for changing oil, but it wouldn't work well on the two-piece cowl.

A PowerPoint as a HowTo? I like to see that.

[Hank]

A PowerPoint as a HowTo? I like to see that.

I'll post it this week. I'm out of town right now.

[PTK]

Lower cowl need not come off to change the oil on the J unless are servicing the screen.

But I have a question regarding dripless oil change.

Would it help letting air out of nose tire to lower nose which would tilt oil filter forward enabling it to actually drain? I've often thought of this but have not actually done it!

Edited October 24, 2015 by PTK

[amillet]

I have pulled the nose wheel out of the hangar to lower the angle of the filter.

[PTK]

Did it work well? Did oil filter drain empty?

[aaronk25]

My advise learned the hard way is to always remove the lower cowl to inspect alternator field wire connections and oil return lines ect for servicablility. Lots of vibration on these birds, if your changing at 25 hours maybe not a big deal but someone needs too look over lots of things every 59 hours for sure.

[amillet]

Pulling nose wheel out of hangar means you have to wait while filter drains,  leaving it overnight seems to work better.  I put a disposable diaper under the filter then put a zip lock bag around filter while I unscrew it.  Also stuff a couple of paper towels in the flat area where spilled oil collects. I can usually do it without any mess now.