Jim F

Offset box end wrench. Some grinding might be necessary. Yes, on fire sleeve. As Skip said, flammable =fire sleeve

What was the unmetered fuel pressure and EGT at 2700, & 34"MAP. The fuel metering unit (throttle body), flow divider, and nozzles are all that's left. When your mechanic increased the unmetered fuel pressure did you see any increase in fuel flow?

I have lots of borescope experience. I don't see the valve seat transition, that tells me that there are deposits built up. It's a little bit of an odd place for a crack, but don't put too much in that statement. I would fly your AC at a high-power setting and take another look. Also, before i would pull the jug I would drop the exhaust and look at the port position side of the potential crack position. Jim

You can use a J-hook pic or a small diameter door hook

I think the 231 and Encore are the same part. Here is a pic, its aluminum and should be painted

YES, Air racing Formula 1 requires a cable between the cylinders bases to the engine mount. Back in the 80s a blade failed, and the engine tore loos from the mounts. The engine was hanging from the hoses. Without the weight of the engine, you are no longer controllable. Jim

This week I had a similar problem but with the bulkhead fitting 4 ft aft. After 44 years the line pulled out of the forward side of the bulkhead fitting. As PT20J states, this is the line that heads aft to the reservoir in the tail access panel. When the brake pads wear, and the brake pucks move out a bit there is more hydraulic fluid in the caliper. The master cylinders will pull hydraulic fluid from this line and the reservoir. If air gets into the system, it's a challenge to get out. When you reconnect the line, you can try to push hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir by pushing in one or both caliper pucks. this will push fluid back to the reservoir. On my K the slope back to the reservoir is not all uphill so I need to work it a bit. I will put a slight vacuum on the reservoir plug fitting to pull the air into the reservoir. My guess is that the line shrunk a bit, and the factory ty-wraps were too tight, and the line slid out of the bulkhead fitting. Jim

I would check for an intake or exhaust leak.

I would make sure your baffle seal is in good shape and not leaking air past the fins. As most above state, setting the fuel flows correctly is a must for our 231 engines. If your CHTs are getting to 460dF you will be doing(paying) top overhauls every 300-600 hours, so rethink that part of the POH. Crazy part on PoH is there are written when our aircraft was new, but they have zero updates on a better way to run your engine. This is where MS can help save you and your engine. We have learned an incredible amount over the years on proper fuel flow set up and heat control to extend cylinder life. High heat & high pressure kills our cylinders. Thank you, Mike Bush, and Paul Kortopates (he is here on MS) for helping get the word out. My GB(no intercooler/no waste gate) fuel flows are set to 25.7gpm at 2700RPM, 40inMP. I takeoff and climb at 100% power to altitude (normally 16K-17K). That gets me a TIT of ~1425dF, and CHTs 300dF - 330dF This max fuel flow is 1gpm higher than the TC SID97-3G calls out (24.7gpm) but is an accepted change first pushed by RAM aircraft and everyone that knows our engines. If my CHTs in the climb are approaching 380dF on a hot day I increase air speed. If its 110dF OAT I am climbing at ~500ft min. My engine is at 1950hrs and two jugs were changed before I bought it(@1200hr) and I have changed one jug for a crack in the exhaust (due to a casting void). Jim

How about the rear black swoosh on the tail being purple metal flake and rear red swoosh being lambo burnt orange. Man I like both the burnt orange and purple together. Rear Bear

If you know that you have zero fuel in the cylinders, you know that the mags are grounded, the mixture is ICO, and the throttle is at idle you can pull the prop through by hand and see if you have compression. I would also do a cold compression check. I don't think I have ever heard of a valve sticking after a teardown, but they might not have pulled the valves during the IRAN. The broken spring is interesting and if you have one, I would pull the rocker cover and inspect all valve springs. good luck and let us know what you find Jim

This is what I do, and I agree that it seems to be the simplest. I made a foil lines bobble wrap cover for the cowl and I stuff the trouble light with an 100W incandescent bulb in the pilot's cowl flap. When i turn on the JPI all cylinders are ~60dF. If I am on the road or I got stuck out in the cold I swing buy a hardware store and buy a 3inch flexible dryer duct and stuff it in the cowl flap and the rental car exhaust. In 20min the entire engine is warmed up.

Any idea what sealant Cirrus uses on their tanks?

Maybe some context on where this is from? Is this a logbook entry? There looks to be a couple typos, there should not be a (0) zero in front of 360 and there should not be an (0) zero after 360. The K & L are model numbers, B stands for Big main bearings on the crankshaft/crank case, MO no idea.

Agreed jlunseth, I have my JPI830 on the Pilot side right above the throttle quadrant. It is easy to keep the 830 in my scan. As Kortopates teaches, on my take off roll my scan is all JPI data in the green, and again mid takeoff roll ~63MPH when I am checking that I have 50% runway remaining, I scan the 830 before liftoff.