Jim F

My IA is not current but here is how I would handle it. Review the change to the new Rev of the SL. Sign off the AD with a reference to the SL new Rev and add a note that the AD was privosly complied with on X date and SL Rev old. I don’t think there is an issue signing off an AD twice. Or you could ask the FSDO or whatever it’s call up by you. Lets us know what you do. Jim

Hi MooneyMark, Sorry to hear about your dad. It looks like the rocker shaft holddown nut is missing the lock tab. Picture below Also this is clearly the oil problem but you should have had a puddle of oil dripping from the intake drains and that would have helped with a quick diagnoses. I would check the drain check valve above the left cowl flap and make sure the lines are clear to each intake port. Jim

Let’s hope that there is a big increase in new pilot training starts. That would be good for GA.

On lycomings they use servos and in the servo there is a diafram with incoming fuel pressure ( from the fuel pump) and out going fuel pressure( to the flow divider) and if incoming fuel pressure increased like the boost on then the fuel meatering valve will adjust the mixture to keep it from going to rich. On a Continental the fuel system is ground adjusted so the fuel pressure is correct for takeoff power and if you turn on low boost the fuel pressure to the nozzles will increase slightly. If you turn on high boost you will go over rich and the engine will most likely quit. On the 231/252 There is no auto function to high fuel boost. Most lycomings ( that I have seen) have check list to turn on the boost pump for takeoff and if the engine driven pump fails the boost pump should keep everything running. On Continentals we were trained that on takeoff with engine power loss you switch high boost on and lean as needed. Very simple system. Not to beat a dead hours but that is why the guys that know Continental engines keep saying “get your fuel flows adjusted”

It could be upstream but not likely. To be clear you checked both mags? its a little work but you could swap #5 and #3 injectors and see if the problem moves. That is what I would do if I was away from home. Also verify you don’t have a big intake leak #5 jim

Hi Paul, What is the gauge on the upper left to the left of the ASI. Looks like a dual amp meter flush in best. Beautiful panel jim

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good flight!!!!

For the super CB the spark plug rack is your engine monitor. That is as long as you put them in numbered order. I'm just saying.

If you don't have a engine monitor there is another quick way to find a cold or cool cylinder. With the cowl off run on the bad mag for a short bit. Shut down and with the Handel of a screw driver touch the exhaust stack. The Handel will melt on a cylinder that's fireing and will not melt well in a intermittent cylinder. Everyone has a screw driver. Jim

Received my orings today. Great product and great service. It was a pleasure doing business Another big Win for MooneySpace Jim

Don and Bob, What are your numbers on takeoff, climb, and cruise? From what I have read sounds like a shorter takeoff run and better climb and a negative in cruise. Is that true? In cruise do you have numbers for 18-20K? Thanks, Jim

Did Savvy give you any recommendations? i would bet you have a piece of scaled off varnish in the orfice that is bouncing around and this causes very quick changes to the fuel spray pattern out of the injector nozzle. You might be able to see on the babe jar fuel test where the fuel stream will jump back and forth from the piece floating in the nozzle. Ultrasonic clean and test the spray pattern. Jim

Hi Cody, the oil must be from a little oil leak on the engine or how funny is this? A leak in the prop. Lol the oil is getting in through the cracks and when the dust and dirt are sucked in the oils catching the dirt. I would replace the intake bellows. Lycoming says something like a teaspoon of dirt is enough to cause wear that will need an overhaul. Make sure your ram air closes all the way with no leaks. The problem with EGTs wondering could be the servo but check the cheap stuff first. Do all EGTs rise at the same time? Only one cyl? Do you have engine monitor data? Lean mag check data? Jim

Mark, if the scavenge pump is good I would put new check valves in its way cheaper then the turbo. There is one more thing to check. The hose from the turbo drain to the return check valve up to the scavange pump. You can have a internal flap of the rubber restrict flow in one direction. Long shot but worth checking. Good luck