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Seen on a Ballanca Viking at Durango, CO.

I have somehow managed to delete the 3D option for Track Logs in Foreflight. Does anyone know how to get it back? I just had an awesome descent from FL100 to 2500 ft at 1000 fpm because ATC refused to let me down until the very last minute, and then I landed with wind at 210/22 for RWY 17 and I want to bask in my own glory

Personally, as a CFI that does a lot of Mooney transition training, I would urge you to get your Instrument rating before moving upto a turbo aircraft. And if able some retract time. But call an insurance broker first, since not many underwriters will insure non instrument rated pilot in a turbo aircraft. But a prior prop strike repair would not leave any damage since repair ordinarily would involve a new prop and tear down inspection repair of the engine fully replacing anything damaged. It will be better after the repair. You’d probably want to update the G500 to the Txi with a GFC-500 install - that’s what i did.

New vehicle position allows spinner to be missed by door by more than an inch now. Better.

And . . . she's sold! As of this afternoon after 15 years of Mooney ownership, and 12 years with this magnificent Missile, I'm planeless. I admit it was kind of hard watching her fly off today. She's got a great new home with a good pilot and owner who is very excited about this Missile. I hope he join's MooneySpace and attends Mooney Summit in October. Thank you as always to everyone here on MooneySpace. I'll stick around! -Seth

I would feel better using CamGuard in this application.

I can see a Phillips vs Aeroshell debate coming.

Cleveland Maintenance Manual says all 40-86 and 40-87 wheels are magnesium except 40-87C and 40-87H which are aluminum.

Just received the new lower cowling from universal composites--$8000 unpainted and no hardware + $800 in shipping. That said, it looks great. They DO have the old molds and can make then one off If you are willing to pay them.

The loads may be the same direction, but the force is very different. But I’m not suggesting I know it is unwise, as you are asserting it is not. I’m simply saying stopping a Mooney with the prop is untested and not the thrust vector the mounts were engineered to carry. For me, there are enough unknowns, dubious utility, and significant additional expense that I wouldn’t do it. That was @PMcClure ‘s question when he resurrected this zombie thread. -dan

Anti scuffing too… -Don

Yes, but it has actually worked out great for me. The previous owner (a EE by the way), had a nice J with a turbo-normalized engine that his family had for a long time. Well he “upgraded” to an SR22T without measuring the hangar doors or checking the wingspan. He sold the J, but when he got the new bird home he realized it didn’t fit! I was in a crappy rented/shared hangar but with 40’ doors. We traded. I got a great price to buy his nice, private hanger, and he got my crappy one! A year later, the owner of the crappy one kicked out the renters and turned it into a shop! Meanwhile, I own mine and the hanger prices have almost doubled! Now that I think about it, the 38’ hanger has been terrific for my situation!

The only difference between IRAN and Major is selling price. A 20,000hr since major engine that is consistently flown, IRAN, etc. is just as mechanically sound as an engine that has been overhauled 100hrs ago (removing infant mortality). One is going to command a much higher resale value.

The only thing I have in my tail is the ELT. Even the battery is in the engine compartment on my old C. I'm putting the GMU11 in the left wing. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I agree whole-heartedly. That’s why we want to use our resources wisely and target the full paint job while protecting the metal in the meantime.

Yes, for polyester that would be 155ºF. And for unsupported fibers sticking up out of the cloth as they do in microfiber [like small terrycloth], this would soften them up so that the fibers could be bent over as the dryer rolls them around. But again, I'm a plastics guy, not a fiber guy . . . and I've not slept in a Holiday Inn Express in a while . . . .

Where's the fun in that???

A simple explanation of molding is due here: Melt the plastic material. Shoot the molten plastic into a mold under high pressure [typically > 15,000 psi]. Cool the plastic to form the part [usually by running water inside the mold, not touching the part]. Eject the part from the mold. Cooling will continue for a period of time determined by mass and temperature at ejection. The mold temperature is the cooling water run through the mold to harden the molded part. Warming a plastic part up to its optimum mold temperature will not affect it at all. Using your table for polyester, the material will be heated to 460-525ºF before injecting into the mold; note that the injection process will add a significant amount of heat to the plastic. The mold is kept at 140-190ºF, which will harden the molten plastic enough to minimize warpage after the part is released from the mold. I've spent the last 34 years molding parts in a variety of thermoplastics, but have zero experience with fibers [and expect them to behave significantly differently].

And how would you run it up there? (If you do this you have to promise to do it on video [emoji3] . . It may get more views than the Cirrus Prop Start video https://youtu.be/7KpOg9Ci284?si=yVZT34Nwm5xNX4Ib) Probably better just to use jacks https://alphaaviation.com/jacks/3-ton-low-wing/

Washing and waxing gives us 10 more KTS !! :-)

For anyone that washes their microfibers make sure you wash them without any fabric softener and dry them without a dryer sheet on the lowest temp setting. Fabric softener/dryer sheets tends to make them hydrophobic and if you dry them at too high of a heat setting the fabric can melt and cause scratching/love marks. I rotate my towels down as they wear out. A worn out towel for your windshield works great on the belly. After that it’s a great shop rag.

I’m assuming you have the flat wing end. The sculpted tips make the width 36’1”

Guessing the dynamic loads on the engine mounts from the mass of the engine and prop hanging out front when the aircraft bounces around and accelerates to its design G limit is greater than the longitudinal thrust loads generated by the prop. But that’s just a guess…

And is there any change to take off and landing distances in the documemtation?

The force magnitude may be different (I don't know), but it's like accelerated age testing in reverse. Instead of using applications of large force to test durability over a long time, the application of repeated smaller forces over the last seventy-or-so years suggests that the application of a larger force (within reasonable limits) in the same direction on the same components is not likely to do anything surprising.

I am curious. How short do you land with reverse? and how short a field do you feel comfortable with?

Congrats on sale Seth! That's awesome for you and growing family Good luck with "next stage" of ownership. Scott

I tested one of my damaged caps today. Did the vinegar test, no reaction. Filed some material off and tried to light it. No response. It seems these are aluminum.

Would’ve been better if it was on the oil breather… CBs could then reuse the oil!

The first pic looks like there was 1/16" or so (maybe more) of bondo/filler on there that is starting to come off. That's not going to get better, and it'll come off in a chunk or more at some point. That'll have to be addressed eventually. If you have a local aviation paint shop you might try calling them and see if they have a best practice for dealing with such things. You might need to do a little sheet metal work around there, maybe just involving some simple dent removal or reshaping techniques before repainting that area.

The motor mounts are designed for the engine to pull the plane. How does pushing with the reversed prop affect the mounts? Nobody knows…. -dan

I do try to take good care of the folks that take care of Myrtle and I give them my business year around. I don't complain about what they charge either......ever. They did the pre-buy on Myrtle and have been awesome to work with. Not perfect, but they certainly try and come very close. I think in the world we live in now, they are exceptional, which unfortunately means they have more business than they can deal with at times. They have a key to my hangar so they just go get Myrtle at their convenience when it's time for an oil change or whatever. I try to be the kind of customer that I want at my place of business. I guess that's the best way to describe it.

On the jet I fly at work, I'd agree. When it comes to a Mooney Rocket, I couldn't disagree more. Per MT, I have the only Mooney with reverse. My plane will leave the ground on takeoff in ~1,000 ft ground roll. It will not land that short even with my reverse.

Think about the number of people who only know their cars to the extent that they turn the key to the right, put it in gear, and push on the right-most pedal. I don't work on my car any longer, but I do have enough knowledge to make pretty good guesses what's going on when something malfunctions. With an airplane, it seems even more important to know how everything works.

I have been doing this all wrong all these years. Instead of my office staff calling my patients back immediately or answering their phone calls and their emails, I should be ignoring them. Then they will bring me pizza and doughnuts....hmmmmmm.....

I recently did 7 hours (and 3 seconds according to Flight Aware) and did 1333 nm and had over 3 hours remaining. But I had a tail wind the whole way. Tailwind peaked at 52 knots for a bit.

There are some things that might be best not experimented with. Landing gear springs are in that category (IMO). There are sufficient wrecked Mooneys out there that don’t need theirs anymore- salvage yards have them. @Alan Fox is our local Mooney salvage guy.

For your purposes, they are the same. You'll be using a vacuum pad drive, which exists on both engines.

A box of doughnuts works well too. It got me unlimited free consultation and expedited work at the local engine shop.

NONE of these 'ideas' would be mentioned to my wife... I value my life. We LAND and use real restrooms. Happily married for 37 years...plan to keep it that way

Shocker. Who would've guessed.

Here's an idea; limit your legs to 2½ hours. Never had a bathroom issue with that. New airports, new experiences. Quick stops, get out and stretch your legs. You're refreshed for the next leg.

A suggestion like that would put my wife in a Pilatus with her next husband.

If I may offer an opinion being based in the area, I don't recommend you do instrument training here unless you have a particularly strong reason to. Totally go for a flight lesson and enjoy the landmarks and airspace. Getting under the hood, you won't know or see any of it. It would be more intense due to airspace but not necessarily a more valuable lesson (unless you're instrument rated and just looking for a challenge). Most likely they would take you away from the city and airspace for instrument practice.

Received EDM830. Great price from AeroDon, even with PayPal fees . Bought a PS Engineering PS7000 audio panel (had one in Missile) from Bass (Colorado) used and a 795 for panel mount on co-pilot side. (also from a Mooneyspacer). Will mount in an AirGizmo panel mounton co-pilot side. Found out the old Brittain heading A/P unit works.That is a nice plus as don't need the Accu-Flite and DG (I have an Aspen). The old King GPS is giving a flag error? I plan to remove it. Got a couple more hours in the plane. I turned on the Brittain heading on trip out. Was like 50 degrees magnetic. Did not notice it, so didn't turn off. On climb out I kept getting off course. Then realized heading bug was moving me to 50 degrees I had set. Adjusted and end of issue... Love the plane so far. Never flew in a two blade prop Mooney as first E was McCauley and Missile had a three blade. I Love it. I still see 1000' initial climb. I can climb this bird at 110 instead of 120 and oil and cylinder temps are fine. Must have really good baffling and efficient oil cooler on 480 hour roller engine. Me happy.

Waxed her tonight. She looks purdy...

Bath tomorrow. Dead tired today...

Everyone on the ground where he landed is dead.... (It's evidently a Cemetery) :-)

Lots of mechanics install these with silicon seal. It makes getting the lens off really hard. I used Marine De-Bond which will de-solve silicon seal. Sometimes you can use WD-40 but it works really slow, like overnight. https://marineformula.com/collections/all After you get it off, you will need to remove all traces to get a proper re-seal. I replaced it with an LED bulb https://www.aero-lites.com/product-page/led-rear-position-light-wedge-base You will find it a tight fit and you will find the socket will likely crumble in your fingers. You can buy the Whelen replacement for 80 dollars or you can order this for 30. https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/osram-sylvania-tp20x-wedge-base-ceramic-lampholder-socket You may have to split the socket, insert the bulb then put it all together on the tip. After you get it all mounted, you need to reseal the lens and metal cover. You have two choices, silicon again (and fight it some years later) or use this stuff which remains supple and provides a form fitting seal. Years out you will be able to remove this sealant easily. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/3m/paint---body-repair/sealers---adhesives/adhesives---seam-sealers/c0e374631c2a/3m-strip-caulk/mmm0/08578

Man cave in the man cave