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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    860K for a Cirrus, 770K for an Ultra M20V. The Mooney comes with 2 years no maintenance (including annuals) cost, 10K of transition training allowance, and you don't look like a dork flying one! The problem really isn't the price, its our ability and willingness to buy one! Once you fly one of these, it is truly addicting! Be careful when you take that demo ride! They are that nice!
  2. 3 points
    @Vance Harral, we appreciate your candid feedback and are working on these issues.
  3. 2 points
    Figured I’d put the new video in this thread too...
  4. 2 points
    So despite the naysayers, this is a good thing! Next up is to increase producton numbers and keep on selling airplanes. I like the Speed Shop, too. Great stuff! I'm afraid to look at too much of it for fear that it will come home to me . . . .
  5. 2 points
    Isn’t it time for Gee Bee to start making these? Clarence
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
    I guess your wife was ok with that ... huh?
  8. 1 point
    @Lance Phillips ... welcome and thanks for posting - if you think they’re hard on your website ... think again ... wait to you post an advertisement of a used Mooney you’re thinking of buying? Do new Mooneys come with “CamGuard” additive in the oil? (Don’t answer that please) ... so glad to hear the new Acclaim Ultras are selling! I In my humble opinion, the Ovations/ Acclaim’s are decidedly more capable aircraft than the Cirrus, I was afraid we came into the market just a little late with the Mooney start-up. All those Cirrus aircraft we see on our ramps should’ve been Mooneys!!!!
  9. 1 point
    Need some input from the combined wisdom of this space. Love my 2000 Mooney Ovation 2, but after 3 years of fun mostly going up and down the West Coast, I would like to go East bound more often and for crossing the Rockies I do need a turbo more often than not. Here is my problem: the TT on the aircraft and the engine is ~1,850h. The engine is running fine, gets oil changes every 25h, oil samples show no issues, over the last years the occasional cylinder got replaced, compressions are all north of 70 and the oil consumption is 1qt for about very 10h. Given that it runs real nice, my intention was to disregard TBO for a while and keep flying it until something bad shows up in the oil samples, the compression goes real bad or oil consumption goes up significantly, until maybe TT 2,200h. The airplane shows real nice, tricked out to the gills avionics wise with a few extra features that I have put in (see list below), but the high engine time could make it hard to sell. I hate overhauling the engine when it clearly doesn't need it right now, just so it "sells better". Furthermore, many owners have strong opinions whether to go new engine, re-manufactured or if overhauled is good enough (as long as it is the xyz shop that they trust, ...). Any thoughts on this dilemma? Any guesses on "what the market will bear" on the airplane as is or with an engine overhaul? Thanks Joe ============================================================ 2000 Mooney Ovation 2 featuring TKS (non-FIKI) ~300h on new 3-blade Hartzell Prop w/ TKS slingers G500, newest SW Active Traffic warning: Garmin GTS800 TCAS, top and bottom Antennas G530W / w Terrain, newest SW G430W / w Terrain, newest SW New PMA450 intercom w/ Marker Beacon – dimensional sound & Bluetooth connectivity Transponder GTX330ES – verified ADSB compliance, newest SW Autopilot KFC225 coupled to G500, shoots approaches (ILS and GPS WAAS based LPV approaches) down to minimums Garmin Flightstream 210 to send attitude to and flightplans to and from ForeFlight or other applications Garmin 260 Angle of Attack indicator JPI 830 with all sensors hooked up – master warning red LED positioned in center view of the pilot Stormscope WX500 GDL69 XM Weather Upgraded Landing lights to 2x50W XeVision Upgraded Taxi lights to 2x50W XeVision, installed wig-wag function BatteryMinder plugs wired to the TKS refill door from both batteries New Alarm Clock, with yellow warning LED for timer expiration positioned in center view of the pilot Large built in oxygen tank, recently replaced Wired for powered Bose Headsets for pilot and co-pilot Engine heater 2x12V cigarette lighter plugs, 1 for front row, 1 for back row Wired connector to large Arctic Cooler box into the panel: double rocker switch drives fan and addtl cooling pump Annuals only by Mooney Service Centers – no expense spared.
  10. 1 point
    Since this site is about sharing knowledge I just got a "T" shirt in Flap Troubleshooting. About 2 months ago my flaps would not retract from landing position. I removed the belly pan and did all the normal stuff as in making sure the switches were tight and the contacts were actually depressing. This along with Electronic Cleaner and magically they started working again. until last Saturday.... Same situation. They would not retract from the Landing Position. We dropped the belly cover again this time with the plane on jacks and a comfortable creeper. I wanted to painstakingly go through every switch. I checked each switch for continuity and alignment, all good. Still the flaps would not retract. So what creates an intermittent problem.... Hmmm a relay! Yes... there are two permissive relays on a circuit board. With the flaps still stuck in the down position I taped on the relays with a screwdriver and up the flaps went! I could not find the exact brand but I was able to cross match it to a potter-brumfield part which I use a lot for control panels. There are six solder locations per relay and dropping the board is a PITA. But..... knowing the flaps will retract at a destination away from hope was worth every minute to get it corrected. Rick
  11. 1 point
    and, before we blame them for being out of fuel, the female crew member reported that the right fuel pump had failed. Let's wait and see what the TSB finds before drawing conclusions
  12. 1 point
    You can also load them from the procedures list.
  13. 1 point
    It Only allows to change the bulb with the one specified in the IPC. Otherwise it's a alteration, which only a mechanic can do.
  14. 1 point
    I've joined the 6.41 thanks to rmag. I appreciate you squeezing me in and getting me updated! I flew back to N57 and the visual worked GREAT! What a neat function. BTW -- I did confirm it only shows up on the map page.
  15. 1 point
    Ditto. Agree with this and others’ remarks. Price it accordingly with a near run-out engine, and it will certainly sell quickly. Agree with Niko, though, that you may want to reconsider a turbo. I have absolutely nothing against them, and have considered an Acclaim more than a couple of times, but keep coming back to the rock-solid abilities and peace-of-mind my Ovation gives me...especially after I’ve configured it exactly as I want, as you appear to have done. You’ve got some excellent equipment in that ship, and you wrote it all up nicely. I’m convinced it will sell quickly, should you decide to list it. Best of luck in your decision. Steve
  16. 1 point
    Ah. So I now see. Po’ ol’ deah—Bless its heart. My toddlers loved the book, and we had to read “K-Mooney” every blessed night for a couple of years. 70B is, at least for now, called The Beast.
  17. 1 point
    Fine (1oz) fiberglass cloth and black RTV does a fine job of patching the holes. Take it off, clean it with solvent than scrub it with a tooth brush and laundry soap and water. Let it dry thourouly. Smear on a thin coat of black RTV then stick a small patch of cloth over the hole and push it down into the RTV without pushing it through the hole so it lays flat. Let it cure and then put another layer of RTV to compleatly cover the cloth. Do this to both the inside and outside. Try to keep it thin so it doesn't stiffen up the coupler.
  18. 1 point
    Yep, I was wondering if you would catch that! I will take some pictures of mine the next time I am out there, I don't have the air intake like you do. Mine just has a huge empty space behind the enclosure panel. It does have the felt-like material to fill the gaps around the starter and generator, but I have to think that just having the open cavity behind the panel would cause turbulent airflow instead of a smoother flow across the cylinders if it was closed off. David, apologies for hijacking your thread, I will take some pics this weekend and start a new one for speculation and everyone to add their .02.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    He would’ve done a better job not running out of gas
  21. 1 point
    Well its been 8 months since I last posted on the gauges and have been meaning to finish up the post for those interested in doing the same. As mentioned earlier Mitchell’s 2x3 cluster fits in place of the Garwin cluster very well with very little trouble. Once the cluster was mounted I moved on to the cluster wiring, the original cannon plug was removed from the aircraft wiring. Some of the original wiring was reused and some was replaced and or added, both the LH & RH wires were replaced to the sending units do to the fact they had been butt-spliced behind the side panels for some reason, not sure why but it looked like crap so I just pulled new wires. The wiring was straightforward, since the new gauges are lit the lighting was daisy chained and ran to their own circuit breaker. The lighting was check on night to see how bright they were, they were fairly dim so I didn’t bother running them through the overhead rheostat. RH & LH fuel gauges, Oil PSI and Oil Temp were wired to the existing 12v and grounds were run to a ground lug. Next was the fuel sending units, which were bolt on and connect the new wires previously installed. The new Shunt was installed in the original place. Next was the new CHT probe, there again an easy install. The 2 probes remaining are for the Oil Temp & PSI, the original PSI gauge was a wet gauge (oil line to the back of Garwin cluster), a new wire was pulled for the Oil PSI sending unit which is mounted under the cowl. Last was the new Oil Temp sending unit, the old unit had 2 wire were the new only uses one. The wiring took several days, the middle of August in S. Texas is a little tough on a slightly over weight, out of shape 57 year old . Let me back up a bit, the new fuel sending unit float arms were bent to an approximation prior to installation, I also had removed the LH & RH top inboard inspection panels so that I could tweak the float arms if needed. Since we were doing an annual at the same time the plane was already on the jacks so it was leveled per the manual. Reaching in through the top inspection holes the floats were rotated through their entire movement to verify E (empty) and F (full), after minor tweaking they correctly read at each end of the range. The inspection panels were re-sealed and installed and allowed to dry for 5 days (72 hrs was cure time). Now came the moment of truth how accurate were they going to be between Empty & Full, 2 gallons was added to each side then pumped out with the electric boost pump, leaving just the non-usable amount in the tanks. Both read empty when the master was turned on, as they should, I added 1 qt of fuel per side as my IA sat in the plane and verified a slight needle movement as the fuel was added, the next step was to add fuel and note the gallons needed to reach ¼, ½, ¾ and full, I’m happy to report that each quarter mark was with in a half gallon max of where it sound have been, Ill also note that I might have been able to maybe a gallon more on each side. The math was based on 26gal. per the POH and the 1 gallon pumped out initially. After the annual it was run on the ground to check for any oil leaks from the new sending units, all was good so it was time to test fly and all went well. The fuel gauges are very stable in flight and no longer look like windshield wipers, it wasn’t a tough install and can be easily done if it isn’t in August in Texas Sorry it took so long to add an ending to this thread
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    At work I always have a 5 pt system and feel naked without. Looking at the proposed attachment member, I don't see how an attachment can be made without causing exterior bumps in the skin above the structural beam.... However, if it can be done, I will be interested in doing the installation.
  25. 1 point
    I have spare paramount cylinders if you need. They are serviceable IE guaranteed to work.

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