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I’ve done this in my M20J. Making it from 600’ depends on the wind. It’s dicey if the wind is calm. I can always make it from 800’ and if there was much wind on takeoff you have to be careful if the runway is short because you’ll be landing with a tailwind. I brief 800 as my minimum turn back altitude under normal circumstances. You might consider that in some cases the best option might be to keep the gear up to stretch the glide and land somewhere flat on the airport gear up if you can’t make the runway. When Don Maxwell had to do this he told me he almost forgot the gear and put it down in the flare. He heard thump, chirp in short succession. He wouldn’t have made it if he had put the gear down earlier. He also had multiple long runways and taxiways available - things to consider when you brief.

These things rock! Got us above the thin smoke layer across Oregon and northern Nevada. Yes it took 17,500’! But she’s real fast up there. Got to see Burning Man too. 6 in the pattern on adsb as we went by - no thanks!

If we don’t use full flaps for landing, what are they for? I have landed a Mooney in every flap position imaginable. The plane can be landed with any flap position. I think it lands better with full flaps in all circumstances. Some will offer a different opinion. The less flaps, the more nose up pitch is required.

Received an email from LASAR this morning, they are working with a few vendors trying to get the lead-times down and have created a "Waitlist." Once they get a firm (reasonable) lead-time they will start reaching out to those on their waitlist for orders/deposits. As of this morning, they still do not have an approximate price for the gearsets, won't know until they lock-in a vendor. (LASAR did not give a timeline as to when they might be reaching out to those on the waitlist.) IF you would like to be placed on their waitlist, email Sales@lasar.com with the qty you are requesting. Looks like there will be a secondary vendor option at some point as an individual, already making gearsets for other aircraft, is looking to make the 40:1 gearsets as well, he already has a few items PMA'd and working to do the same with the 40:1 gearsets, the good thing is, he's the vendor and a Mooney Owner, more info as it becomes available, but it will be good to have a little competition for LASAR to hopefully keep pricing relatively reasonable. But for now, if you are interested, reach out to LASAR and get your name on the list. V/r matt

I hope they can get it to market for the same price as 100LL. I hope it has less issues than G100UL

it's progress from a company that actual makes fuel for living. I think we have supplies of paint stripper for the next decade. Hopefully GAMI cuts a deal with Home Depot so it's more readily accessible.

I’ve used all 3 settings just to be comfortable with them (my electric flaps died in the up position a couple weeks back so I got a “real” nf landing). Personally, I like full flaps as that’s the configuration for the slowest possible touchdown and the shortest landing roll. I agree that the to position feels a little better sometimes, I expect from a combination of the extra few knots and the different view, but you can land just as well with full flaps if you practice. Caveat… i use to flaps on instrument approaches until landing is assured.

I teach the impossible turn maneuver to all kinds of Mooney pilots; even a past student pilot. With our good glide ratio and some practice this is not a hard maneuver. But i don’t think anyone can learn to do this from a video, but hopefully the video inspires folks to seek out training on how to do this since few will pull it off without practice. This is why we first start off with simulating the departure climb to a safe altitude, pulling throttle, waiting 3 sec for startle effect and commencing a 360 degree turn to measure your altitude loss. Every single person has improved significantly with some coaching and practice with each successive try. We’ll add 50% buffer to their altitude loss to derive their personal minimum turn back altitude. Usually by the third try they’ll be ready to make a successful try. I’ve successfully done this with student in calm winds to winds over 30 kts always returning to the departure end of the runway. With strong winds you have a whole different problem than making it to the runway but slipping down steeply enough before you’re out of runway. There are important considerations i am not going into here but my intent isn’t to instruct in this post but to encourage everyone not practiced in this maneuver to seek out expert training and practice in it to be proficient. As pilots we can’t have too many tools in our tool bag not to mention knowledge and proficiency adds to our safety immensely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I missed this when it was unveiled at Airventure last month. It sounds like Piper is planning to sell brand new Seminoles with DeltaHawk engines, using an STC that Piper owns. https://generalaviationnews.com/2025/07/24/piper-unveils-seminole-powered-by-diesel-deltahawk-engine/ This is the more mature 180hp variant, not the more interesting 200 or 200+ variants. But still, getting more of these in the wild in certified aircraft will tell us a lot more about the long term viability of the powerplant. https://www.deltahawk.com/engines/ Given all of the painful recent decisions on UL avgas, I’m happier thinking about diesel again …

Ahhh...yes. The universal "it is for the children" argument that we are all supposed to buy without questions. By the same respect, it is morally or ethically acceptable for any airport governing body to allow or mandate sale of a product that has been misrepresented as "safe" while causing damage to aircraft? I guess it is, so long as it is "for the children".

The passenger seatbelt is a regular as well…

Because I went full electrial (electronic magnetos and instruments) I never felt confortable not having a second alternator in my M20C (E). So I came through B&C back up alternators. They had been approved for PA32 and for Bonanzas. https://bandc.com/product-category/alternators/certified-alternators/standby-alternators/ I decided to look at the unit and with my IA and AP we did the installation and got the field approval for the system. The unit work flawlessly and it lowers my anxiety... the stand by battery never provided me with the necessary state of mind. Oscar

I could see if it was bud light…..

https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2025/september/04/swift-earns-astm-approval-of-100-octane-unleaded

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/fd03665a-9127-4f79-a429-ee3607a81548/downloads/Wayne Fisher on Landing.pdf?ver=1619678278351

I was advised that I am nearing the sb to replace the spring. I am not going to do so. I believe there was a bad batch at some point in the past and that the SB was an over reaction. no guarantee that the “new” spring will not have issues. the life cycles of these springs is pretty light in our airplanes and I see no reason to spend $3k for a $10 part that is unlikely to fail. At least that is my opinion.

Had one of those moments only a Johnson bar owner can appreciate….ALWAYS check the floor before raising the gear! I relearn this about once a year. Today could have been ugly, gear wouldn’t go up…..WTF?? Look down and realized I had smashed an errant port-a-john. LUCKILY it was empty!!!! Quick gear cycle verified bar was fine and time for a new urinal. Johnson Bars and Port-a-John’s are not compatible, despite their names.

If there was no motion of the motor and no circuit breakers popped, then the problem is most likely the down limit microswitch or the down relay. When mine did this (but on retraction rather than extension) I isolated it to the relay by jacking the plane, removing the belly panel and tapping the relay with a screwdriver handle which caused the gear to operate.

I reached out to LASAR yesterday, waiting to hear back from him...did find a machinist that currently makes a few PMA parts and NASCAR gears that owns a Mooney that is looking to make them, but unsure of the timeline.

Why use flaps at all? What do flaps do? Flaps do three things: First, flaps add drag allowing for a steeper approach with power, and using power during an approach aids controllability by providing the ability to control airspeed and descent angle/rate independently. Second, flaps reduce the deck angle allowing better visibility over the nose. And, third (and most importantly) flaps reduce the stall speed allowing for slower and thus shorter landings. So, if flaps do all these good things, why not use all you can get? Are Mooneys easlier to land with partial flap settings? And, are Mooneys so difficult to land that we need to resort to lesser flap settings to make it easier? Judging by the fact that landing Mooneys seems to be a perennial topic of discussion, it appears that many have issues with landing these airplanes. Let's define a good landing as on centerline, with no sideways drift, on the main wheels first. We might further add touching down within say 100 feet of your aim point. Most every competent pilot can do that. But what I think everyone is really after is a soft touchdown which can be more difficult in a Mooney than lesser aircraft. Why? I think there are a number of reasons: 1. When you get a Mooney slowed down to 1.3Vso you are deeper in the region of reverse command (aka backside of the power curve) than many light aircraft and the airspeed is thus unstable in the sense that if it starts to get slow, it wants to get even slower. So, you have use the throttle and elevators more to keep it on profile. 2. Mooneys have a lot of gadgets in the elevator controls. M20Js and earlier have trim assist bungees and later models have a down spring interconnected with the trim and a bob weight. These gadgets add an unnatural control force at low speeds because the spring tension is constant where the elevator forces without the springs would decrease as the airplane slowed. 3. The laminar flow wing has the spar pretty far aft and so the landing gear, which is attached to the spar, is located farther aft of the CG than most other similar aircraft. This is why people sometimes call the airplane nose heavy. But this main gear position has an undesirable effect upon touchdown. At the instant the main wheels touch down, the pivot point shifts from the CG to the main wheels which shortens the moment arm to the tail. This produces a pitch down moment and the tendency to "bang" the nosewheel down harder than intended. 4. The rubber puck suspension system is pretty stiff and not very forgiving if you drop it in on landing even a little bit. Some of these negative aspects can be improved by landing with less flaps. The landing speed is higher so you will be less deep into the region of reverse command. The pitch angle is higher so the flare maneuver does not take as much rotation and is more tolerant of mistiming. But, wouldn't it be better to learn how to land the airplane correctly than to use the "crutch" of using less flaps just to make it easier? It's not that hard. The biggest mistakes I see (and make myself) are not looking far enough down the runway to properly judge height, flaring too high (risks running out of energy and dropping it in) or too low (scoots along in ground effect until it stalls and drops in) and not using a touch of power when it seems it is going to drop in. My best landings are with the power coming to idle just before touchdown and the elevators still coming back as it touches down.

Already posted in the West Coast group but here's Burning Man at ~3000 AGL, taken yesterday

Follow the money....

That’s the crux of it? It’s possible in 6000ft runway with cross runways ! I had to remind few UK GA pilots who were watching YT videos that we already struggle to land with engine into wind in typical British 1800ft runway

That looks great! This was the Great Southern Haze Layer last weekend, coming from NC back to Sweet Home

Flew to our place in CO for Labor Day weekend. Mt Humphrey's by Flagstaff High Desert Ship Rock KPSO landing in light rain

Before you start tearing into things, try getting a large Gats jar and push up all the way to fully open the valve and get lots of fuel out. Do it several times. There may be some gunk under the seal which will clear out with a substantial draw. I've found most people don't pull enough fuel out to fully flush the valve on a regular basis. Do it several times to see if you can clear any gunk under the valve seat.

I flew up to Rotterdam where the street art is off the charts. The biggest challenge of Rotterdam is pop-up thunderstorm cells. I studied the weather, and studied and studied. Everything said stable weather the whole time. Then the morning of departure, boom! Pop-up thunderstorms at both ends of the runway. Luckily they disappeared as quickly as they came, so it's wasn't a big deal. I don't have too many pictures of the flying, but here is one, plus examples of the super cool street art with one work in progress

Hello all, After a rough couple months of spam-bot invasions I have decided to make some critical changes to the way new users to the community are validated and how Supporter level memberships work. Here are the key changes: When a new account is created here it will be placed in a group called Unverified Members. This group can browse the site but cannot create any new content. To upgrade this account to a Verified Member you have two options: a) pay a $2 fee for instant validation which is good for the life of the account or b) contact me @mooniac58 with a picture/scan of your valid ID to prove you are who you say you are. The old manual $10 minimum donation for upgrade to Supporter level has been replaced with a $25/year automatic subscription system that will renew every year on its own unless you cancel it. No more waiting for me manually upgrade your account, etc. Those that purchase the $2 instant validation will get a $2 credit towards their first year of Supporter level access...so $23 for the first year and $25 thereafter. Generic Donations: Separate from the membership plans, users can still donate arbitrary amounts to support the site using the new donations page. Those that donated prior to today with the old system will continue to have Supporter access until 12 months from your last donation as long as that was $10 or more. These are the current membership levels for members: Unverified Members - New accounts, can browse site, cannot create content or message others. Verified Members - Either paid the $2 fee or proved in another way that they are a real person. Can post new content but not in classified forums. Limited to 200MB total storage for attachments, photos and other files. Supporter Members - Signed up for $25/year subscription. Do not see advertisements on site. Able to post non-commercial topics on the classified forums. Storage limit of 1GB. Sponsor Members - These accounts have paid a fee to have a limited number of commercial posts on the forums (usually 1 per month limit). Some final notes: While I am confident new spam-bots are not being registered on the site, I am quite sure that they have dormant accounts that were created in the past that still exist undetected. For this reason we have and will see brief uprisings where they rise up and make a bunch of spam posts. We will ban each of these as they occur and wipe the content. I don't expect much of this and the past few days have been clear skies here. If you created an account prior to August 5, 2025 and did the normal email based activation then you are in the Verified Member group. No one was downgraded during this process and you don't need to do anything to validate your account. Please do not do the $2 validation process (I am still working on hiding this option for everyone except unvalidated accounts in the site). I will be making small changes here and there to try and make it more clear how new users validate their accounts. For now I hope newly registered members find their way to this topic to get the instructions. Eventually I hope to figure out how to customize the site more to guide new members through the process better. And lastly a big thanks to everyone who has supported this community over the past 17 years! Craig

Swift 100R is now ASTM, https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2025/september/04/swift-earns-astm-approval-of-100-octane-unleaded By far the most promising for European flyers: it's already sold in Germany and EASA approved, it's used for PPL training in C172S by one school.

Nicely done, though sometimes hard to make out the aircraft configuration - not many technical details in the narration

My recollection, as well. Here it is (as with most of Prof. Rogers' work, there is some math involved!): turnback.pdf

I got mine from peerlesselectronics.com

An electric motor is just coils. Coils don't have polarity, just like resistors. These motors are made to switch direction, so the case isn't grounded through one of the wires. On the schematic for my airplane the motor is shown with two wires, and they are lablled 'grey' and 'red'. They connect to the electrical system through relays which switch the polarity based on the gear selector position. So there wasn't a straightforward answer to the question you asked, and I was trying to give you the best, shortest answer that was relevant and would also highlight that (as both an A&P and an EE). Exchanging information productively and reliably requires effort and attention from both sides. Antagonizing those that can help you and that tried to help you is ultimately not in your interest.

The benefit of a consensus standard like ASTM is that it has had eyes on it and approval by a very broad set of stakeholders, including engine and airframe manufacturers, refiners, distributors, etc., etc. The result is that the likelihood of post-deployment issues goes way, way down. This contrasts significantly to the STC process where one guy can do all those functions including being the DER for the FAA.

I just bought a used gear set in excellent condition for $140.00. It is the 20:1. My M20F has 5000 hours and the gear is still in great shape, so with the spare I think it will last longer than me. The key is to lube them with the proper grease frequently.

The positive wire is relative to which way you want it to turn. If you want it to go one way, green is +, if you want it to go the other way, black is +.

IIRC, when the springs start to fail they are said to start chattering.

Thank you to all for the great and thoughtful replies. As a pilot with 4000 hours in tactical fighter jets but barely 40 hours in single engine prop planes, I feel like a shiny new penny when flying my J. I'm absorbing every bit of knowledge and wisdom I can get my hands on regarding everything I never knew about flying "low and slow." Here are my big takeaways: 1. Absolutely have to be proficient in landing the aircraft in every flap configuration. Totally makes sense given all the reasons stated....and exactly what we did in fighters... 2. Choose the correct flap configuration for the conditions. This is where my experience falls short as Tomcats, Hornets and Super Hornets are always landed with the same flap setting (unless you have an emergency). I appreciate the discussion provided that lays out reasons for when to use each flap setting. 3. I need go slow flight and stall the aircraft in every configuration (not just full flap) so that I can document Vso for each and calculate 1.3Vso for each. 4. Have already learned the hard way that you have to fly this thing on-speed or just take it around! Thanks again for the discussion. If any of you are ever near KJNX, please stop by and visit (I'm the airport director)! Dave

I’ve told this a few times. I think people think it is silly, but it is not. In your situation, if it is a contactor, they are mounted to the floor under the pilots seat. If the gear does nothing, stomping on the floor or bouncing on the seat may knock it loose and get the gear going. I also had this happen once and found one of the motor brushes fell out.

The relays are bolted to the floorboard ahead of the left rear seat.

My pax seatbelt is always locked and stowed in a way that cant happen...dont ask why

The credit for introducing tetraethyl lead (TEL) to gasoline as an octane booster belongs to Thomas Midgley Jr.—an American mechanical and chemical engineer working under Charles Kettering at General Motors in the early 1920s. BTW he also invented Freon. Better living through chemistry!

That’s from children chewing on window sills while watching cool airplanes fly by.

People die all the time in this maneuver. The problem isn’t that it never works. The problem is that sometimes it does. Sometimes the total sum of the circumstances is such that it will work out. Just the right runway, surrounded by just the right terrain and obstacles, just the right wind, your plane losing the engine at just the right moment, being of just the right weight, you executing the maneuver at just the edge of the envelope available… and it works out. But then there are those other times where people crash badly and die. Mainly because they burned all other options in the available time dead set to make the runway. When the time comes there are only two choices. You try your luck or you take whatever is 180° ahead of you. Unless there really really are no options I will not test my luck turning back. Instead I will take the available seconds to setup as best I can for a good landing in a field that I prepared for on the ground and keep a lookout for better options. Remember, even a short field is good enough to stop short if you keep your gear up and will leave you with less injuries as long as you keep the plane flying all the way to a complete stop and don’t stall and crash badly. That’s my take.

I recently interacted with Scott, also privately and I will never again nor will I watch his content. I did watch this video just to see what he had to say and it's more of the same from him. He is not a truth seeking individual, is arrogant and presumptuous and unwilling to hear, really listen to, the other side. That's my opinion of him. And this video confirms it for me. He will not admit that yeah sure G100UL is way worse on certain materials than 100LL. No, he seems to think that it's either us dealing with whatever the fallout to switching to G100UL will be or not flying at all. Well ok, sir, have that position. But at least be honest about it and don't pretend getting a new paint job, o rings, gaskets and sealants is just easy peasy and super cheap to do and everyone will be able to continue to fly. Be honest and say that all GAMI did was test on a single 172. Be honest and say that your tiny leak became a major leak very quickly. Say it how it is. G100UL eats most of the materials used until now and most of the planes will need extensive investment to make them compatible with G100UL, if at all. And no, 100LL doesn't have the same effect. It's present but way way less. Bah it's all just so stupid. Someone in the comments of his video says it well: "This problem would have been solved 30 years ago if the EPA and FAA had simply told the industry back when lead was removed from auto fuels that leaded avgas would be sunset in 20 years and they thus had that long to find a solution. This would have forced the airframe, engine and fuel makers to work together aggressively to find a solution and I am 100% confident a solution would have been found." This is the real problem. We were let down by regulations. But more on the side of certification. Hopefully stuff like this will be a solution (although I'm not holding my breath):

Scott Perdue wrote: “I have to add a mea culpa- I got the AOPA Baron Fuel Leak at Oshkosh wrong. There was a 100LL leak, but there was also a G100UL leak and the culprit was an overfill and the cork gasket failed. Just wanted to correct the record. Once a video is up I can't really edit it without taking it down completely. I also made a note in the video description.” It was highly public with the G100UL leak on the Baron with the black goo under the wing as Osh24. I’m not sure where Perdue obtained his background research for this video. I suspect GAMI? Certainly makes it appear that Flywire is GAMI’s new advertising spokesperson. https://flyeagle.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/AOPA-Baron-Fuel-Cells-Report.pdf "Given the areas of stain and stickiness observed during the receiving inspection, we expected the left hand auxiliary cell to leak as well. However, the stickiness could have been caused by seepage into that cavity. The stickiness of the leaking main cells was in keeping with the number of leaks found. There is no doubt the patch may have been partially loose given its location however, the extent of the detachment in situ is in question. The removal and subsequent handling would have further separated the repair. The important question is why the repair began to detach. It may be possible that the missing internal rubber may have allowed the solvents in the fuel to penetrate the fabric and the exterior rubber coating and then getting beneath the external repair. This is most likely the reason given how the repairs are bonded." There’s more to the story than “move along folks nothing to see here” that Mr Braly likes to suggest. It’s striking that Mr. Perdue would suggest in a video that “surprise, it was only 100LL that leaked.” This suggests that his video isn’t researched and educated but just parroting support.

Summary of Scott's video posted above - G100UL is completely safe, provided that all gaskets, hoses, diaphragms, etc., made from anyting else than Vitol are replaced, planes are rapainted or get magic"ceramic" coatings installed Yet another attempt to gloss over the known compatibility issues of this fuel.

Finished installing the GeeBee seals. First off, after reading all the previous descriptions of issues with seals I was apprehensive...but in hind sight I think this was unfounded. I installed the new profile (larger bulb, less durometer) on both baggage and main. New GeeBee (left), Old GeeBee (middle), Mooney seal (right) Cleaning off the old seals: Baggage door seal looked different than the cabin door. Baggage door was the foam core rubber seal, but the main door was dense crunchy foam seal. Baggage door came off cleanly and way too easily, but the cabin door came off in chunks. The money was to use plastic razor blade scrapers to scrape off the foam between the rivet heads and get down to adhesive. This worked surprisingly well but was a little tedious in places. Main Baggage I used cheap thin plastic drop cloths from Home Depot with some painters tape to mask things and keep any remover or parts off the paint and out of the aircraft. It was an easy step that made clean up super easy! I took off the interior panels for both the doors. I initially removed the hold open arm on the main door, but it really didn't open that much more and I think you could easily just leave it on and be fine. But it makes it a little easier. If you do take it off, be mindful of the washers and the cotter pin when removing. Hold open arm parts: Door Cotter pin AN380-2-2 (MS24665-132); Washer AN960-10; Washer AN960-10L I then used white shop terry cloths (and a brass brush as needed) with a small spray bottle filled with Adhesive remover. Given the fumes I'd recommend good ventilation and a respirator/glasses/gloves. Depending on how thick and crusty your old adhesive is, dictates how much you need to use a brass brush. Some have described using drill mounted brass brush, and I found that I could control the use of a brush easier without worrying about damage to the underlying frame by hand. Being able to spray the adhesive and keep it wet as it softened the adhesive made it MUCH easier. With softened adhesive sometimes using the corner of a terry cloth rag dipped in some adhesive remover pulled off the top layer of the glue and that coupled with a brush turned it into about an hour+ per door. I think the 3M General Purpose Adhesive is less damaging to painted surfaces than other types of removers. I think overall it worked well and I had no damage to paint or any surfaces inside or outside the aircraft...although I did mask with drop cloths very well. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 6-pack of cheap plastic drop cloths from HD Plastic Razor Blade Scraper 3M 08984 Adhesive Remover Small 2 oz spray bottle Wood handled brass brush After cleaning off the old adhesive, I used isopropyl alcohol to clean off the metal, cleaned up the drop cloths/area, and reassembled the hold open arm and reinstalled the door panels. To prepare for door seal install the next day, I remasked using painters tape along the back edges of the doors to protect the paint from glue/from clamping. I threw a clean moving blanket over the wing walk and wing around the main door to keep things off the paint and prevent paint drips on the wing. QUICK ASIDE: I debated using the 2-part silicone cement that GeeBee includes based on comments here on MooneySpace about something like 3M 08001 yellow "gorilla snot" that has "more working time"...THIS WAS COMPLETELY UNFOUNDED. First off, you can't use rubber cement on a silicone seal...so don't even try to use 8001 on a GeeBee seal. But I've used gorilla snot and it's stringy, messy, and goes on way thicker than you need. I think the cement GeeBee includes is Momentive SilGrip PSA529 & SRC18 Silicone Contact Adhesive. And a huge shout out to Guy as he has this packaged with mixing stick, measured bottles, a pipette for mixing small amounts, and even paint brushes to apply...its clear, just the right consistency to lightly apply just where you want it without running or dripping, and is SO much easier to use than 8001. If you're apprehensive about using GeeBee's cement...don't be. That's just silly. BAGGAGE TIPS: For the baggage door you want to install so that the "tail" of the "P" seal goes on the raised part of the door ~right around the edge of the door panel. You want to make sure you have enough exposed metal at the edge as there is a slight profile at the edge that will bind if you put the seal too close to the edge of the door. Also, by putting the tail on the raised section, it allows you to easily and smoothly turn the corners. The part closest to the hinge (top of the baggage door when closed) should be close to the raised section away from the hinge. So basically on the baggage door it's easily to follow the tail along the raised part lined up with the edge of the interior panel. Make sure you put your seam at the BOTTOM OF THE DOOR which is the higher part when you have the door open. MAIN TIPS: Get inside your aircraft and use a thin pencil stuck into the gap in front of the hold open arm. You can use a pencil to make a mark along the bottom frame of the aircraft to see where the seal should go. You can't quite get the entire bottom marked with a pencil, but you should be able to get enough to see the idea of where the radius of the door frame goes. Along the sides and top you want to center the "P" bulb roughly on the rivet heads, however you want to make sure that when compressed that the seal doesn't flatten past the edge of the door frame. Take a look at your door frame and it should be obvious where you want the bulb to hit the frame. Really the only tricky point is really at the front lower corner due to the gap from the hold open arm. If you followed the interior panel the seal would be in the gap and not sealing anything. With a pencil mark you can aim to have the edge of the tail at the pencil line to make sure the bulb is contacting the frame. Then once you turn the corner you can again align the bulb with the rivet line. I mixed up the epoxy into a small "baby food" size container that I got a 4-pack from Target. Take a small piece of seal to see where you need to apply the seal. So use the paint brush and apply a THIN layer of adhesive on the frame where you're going to put your seal. If you're doing both seals, then I'd suggest starting with the baggage door, then main. So apply thin layer of adhesive to the frame of the baggage door, then apply to the main door. You can use a hair dryer to "speed up" the drying. What I'd suggest is apply glue to both, then only use hair dryer on the baggage door and the main will dry while you're applying the baggage seal. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the seal. Then start at the BOTTOM of the door (high point when door open) and apply a thin layer of adhesive on the seal tail up to the bulb (just the part that will lay flat). Use a hair dryer to dry until tacky. Then place the seal TAIL inside / BULB to the outside. Extra points to apply the seal end between rivet heads so that each end will glue to flat metal instead of right over a rivet. If you're at a point where you can apply glue to the hanging seal you can apply to 10" of seal and dry. But slowly apply the seal when the glue is tacky and press firmly to adhere. I used small clips from Harbor freight (I bought 2 x 22 piece packs and it worked perfectly) to hold the seal as I moved along, but with the adhesive properly tacky the seal will hold itself. When I ran out of clips, I'd harvest from the initial clips placed and move the clip train along the seal. The adhesive is pressure sensitive so press the seal firmly and it will hold. When you get back to seam, cut the end of the seal LONG. Then slowly cut a little at a time until it requires very slight compression to fit. This will allow you to join the ends together with cement. Then move to the main door and make sure the adhesive is tacky...if not, you can use the hair dryer, but I'll bet you'll take at least 20 min standard dry time to apply the baggage door seal. Clean the seal with IPA. I started on the bottom of the main door and worked towards the hinge. That allowed me to follow the pencil line and turn the corner. Then it was smooth sailing to follow just inside the rivet line. HINT: you don't want the center of the bulb closer to the edge of the door than the center of the rivet line. Basically when the bulb is compressed, you don't want it extending past the edge of the door. I think mine were actually centered on the inside edge of the rivet line. On the main door with a moving blanket on the wing, its easy to keep the seal laying on the bulb and apply adhesive in a longer length of seal. But still apply to the door in 3-5" increments and press firmly to adhere and then use the clips. Once the seals are in place, go back though and make sure the seal is firmly pressed to the door after you've removed the clamps. Then let cure with doors open for 12-18 hours. The next day is the moment of truth. If you closed the door prematurely, you could possibly glue more of the bulb seal down to the frame than you need. I applied a thin layer of silicone lube/paste to the seal, wiped off the excess and then closed the door. Firm, but not cumbersome. Seals well all around. If you need a new seal, I wouldn't hesitate to use the seal and kit from @Gee Bee Aeroproducts. I was way more apprehensive about this than I should have been. But give yourself a good 3 day stretch to make sure you have plenty of time to finish and take your time. Day 1 clean off old seals, clean up and reassemble interior panels. Day 2 to apply new seals. Day 3 lube seal and close, then leave in the sun to fully dry and cure.

Did they find some Roman's empire remains? (a British joke or excuse everytime someone digs and leave it that way)

When I have practiced it, I always pull the power and do a slow count to five before doing anything. That’s about the fastest I think I would react. Reaction time should be lower if you brief it because it will be on your mind. But…nothing is certain where humans are involved.