Ram Air Rubber Duct Between Engine and Lower Cowl

[crxcte]

I need to replace ablack  rubber duct between the lower cowling and the engine intake on a IO360 A1A.  Anyone know the name of this part and know where to get a replacement?  I don't see the part in my service manual.

Thanks

[OR75]

 

The part number would be in section 71-10 (powerplant induction/alternate air) of the parts catalog if you have it.

[N601RX]

http://www.swta.net/mooneyproductinfo/mooneyserviceparts.html

Scroll down to engine and ducts.  Expensive $$$

[MARZ]

Ya gotta love google... found this in January's issue at mooneypilots  LINK

1965 M20E Parts

New-1 by-pass intake boot #1Q03-600115-005, 2 bottom cowl braces. Used 1 Dukes pressure switch for electric gear and micro switch.all for $125.00 Howard Chorsky 352-375-1832 email hac51fmc@cox.net

[Shadrach]

I bought one at last annual. Russell at SWTA was the best deal going by nearly $100... I checked 4 places...

[crxcte]

Thanks for the info guys. I didn't know it was torn until the lower cowl was removed.  Surprise Surprise.

[FlyDave]

If this is the same ducting as a "J" then LASAR has it for a rediculously low price. Call them and see if it's the same or if they've found something else.

[DaV8or]

Quote: FlyDave

If this is the same ducting as a "J" then LASAR has it for a rediculously low price. Call them and see if it's the same or if they've found something else.

[crxcte]

Just called Lasor, its the same price as SW.  They don't have their own design but may be someone should.  $315 a pop

[1964-M20E]

You are right but they have us by the, well you understand.

I'm thinking two aluminum plates each with a 3" x 3/4" round aluminum duct welded to it and a piece of 3" scat hose about 3" long and hose clamps.

Probably would be easier to install too.

[Steve65E-NC]

They are a pain to install.  When drilling the holes through the rubber be sure use a drill larger than the screw thread. On mine the engine side is wire tied, so if the lower cowel is off, I attach boot to engine and tie before re-installing cowel.  A shortened box or open wrench helps.

[Jerry 5TJ]

I replaced the torn and fraying duct on my "C" this year; it was about $350 for that part.  The old duct had a date code of 1989, so I guess it was about due for some attention.   You can't inspect the duct well unless you remove the lower cowl and air intake parts.  I also discovered why my carb heat did not give much RPM drop -- the hinge rivets had fallen out and the flapper valve was not closing at all well.  Also invisible unless you take off the lower cowl parts during inspection.

 

[Bob_Belville]

It has been a couple of years since the last comment on the intake duct ("offset accordion") between the ram air and in intake manifold.  

 

Is LASAR the best source? Anyone have one they'd sell? '66E

[DaV8or]

It has been a couple of years since the last comment on the intake duct ("offset accordion") between the ram air and in intake manifold.  

 

Is LASAR the best source? Anyone have one they'd sell? '66E

 

LASAR has them, but I'm sure lots of other MSCs have them too. They are back in production at the factory and not scarce anymore. I still wish the guy who was working on an improved version would still do it. The factory unit is obsolete technology and it's the reason we see so many failures.

[Bob_Belville]

LASAR has them, but I'm sure lots of other MSCs have them too. They are back in production at the factory and not scarce anymore. I still wish the guy who was working on an improved version would still do it. The factory unit is obsolete technology and it's the reason we see so many failures.

Thanks, my A&P talked to Lasar this morning and put a claim on the only one they had left. @$360.

[Shadrach]

Try SWTA as well! They have on their site for $320. 

 

http://www.swta.net/mooneyproductinfo/mooneyserviceparts.html

[BigTex]

Try SWTA as well! They have on their site for $320. 

 

http://www.swta.net/mooneyproductinfo/mooneyserviceparts.html

SWTA isn't discussed much on the forum but the part's they offer has saved my bacon more than once!  I for one, am glad they provide the parts that no one else seem to offer.

[DrBill]

I bought one from  SWTA last summer.  Then me and the mechanic repaired the old one with  Black RTV and cotton threads from an old pair of jeans.  He said it looks like new.  Now I have a spare.

 

BILL

[monkeycyn]

Anyone know where I can get this same part but for an M20K 252? 

[Guest]

I thought that there was someone looking at making them a few years ago on the forum? If I remember he was making an intake coupling for the Beech crowd.

Clarence

[DaV8or]

I thought that there was someone looking at making them a few years ago on the forum? If I remember he was making an intake coupling for the Beech crowd.

Clarence

 

Yep, it was Gee-Bee, the same guy that is talking about making the door seals with Byron. I don't know what became of the project, but I suspect that since the factory started making them again, he has shelved it. Too bad because the factory ones do suck.

[garytex]

Come on Gee Bee, don't leave us hanging!

[TheTurtle]

well they are 299.29 at lasar right now but out of stock  600115-005

[Gary0747]

Does any place still do vulcanizing rubber repair?  I dont like the idea of bits of RTV coming loose and potentially plugging my servo. 

[DrBill]

On 5/17/2011 at 3:26 AM, crxcte said:

Thanks for the info guys. I didn't know it was torn until the lower cowl was removed.  Surprise Surprise.

many times its torn when they try to remove cowl w/o removing it first !

Bill