Oil/Filter Change Newbie Questions

[SnowJustice]

Hello Mooney experts, a couple of questions with regard to an upcoming oil/filter change in a 1963 M20C Mark 21.

1. What is the procedure for opening / closing the quick change valve?

2. What is the torque setting for the filter?

3. Does the filter go on dry or with lubrication?

Thank you in advance! If you have other advice, please don't be shy.

Be safe.

[N201MKTurbo]

Everything in aviation has instructions. Most are available on line. It is always best to follow the manufacturers instructions. As a new aircraft owner, you need to get into the habit of finding and reading instructions before performing any maintenance.

https://www.championaerospace.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/AV6-R-Aug20141.pdf

https://www.lycoming.com/content/tips-changing-your-spin-oil-filter

https://aeroaccessories.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/C6SC-Installation-Inst.-Rev.-2.pdf

With regard to your quick drain valve, it depends which one you have. You have to push in to open them. Some have spring clips to hold them open and some have bayonet pins.

[EricJ]

If you buy Tempest filters they come with a lubricant on the gasket, and they also have the proper torque printed on the filter.

[PT20J]

Some drains pull out to open. 

Get a piece of hose that fits yours and attach one end to the drain and put the other end in a container to collect the oil.

The filter mounts horizontally and will drip oil all over if you just spin it off. There are various posts on MS describing various ways of dealing with this. I cut a length of PVC pipe in half lengthwise to make a trough to direct oil from beneath the filter off to the side where it drips into a container.

[RLCarter]

Being new to changing the oil & filter I would suggest get someone who is familiar with the task to watch over you. Not taking anything away from your mechanical ability but I have seen safety wire that wouldn’t stop rotation and even in the wrong direction 

[jamesm]

For draining your oil filter some use  pvc pipe cut in half or 3 ft  or 4ft  aluminum angle 6061T6 ALUM ANGLE 1X1X1/8  from aircraft  spruce  03-48000-4 or a like works great for my '67C.  Old Picture I don't need to remove SCAT hose.

 

 

 

[OR75]

15 hours ago, SnowJustice said:

Hello Mooney experts, a couple of questions with regard to an upcoming oil/filter change in a 1963 M20C Mark 21.

1. What is the procedure for opening / closing the quick change valve?

2. What is the torque setting for the filter?

3. Does the filter go on dry or with lubrication?

Thank you in advance! If you have other advice, please don't be shy.

Be safe.

part 0. is to remove the cowling

it is not complicated but requires a few tools (right wrench size , torque wrench, tool to open the filter ) and parts (safety wire , grease for the filter gasket although you can also use the oil to grease it, oil analysis kit if you can , plenty of rags !!) and it can get messy 

If you can, change the oil with the engine warm and let it drain overnight if your plane is in a hangar (it also helps reduce the mess). Puncturing the filter can also helps reduce the mess 

best to have the help of someone who has done it before  to get the basics 

[RoundTwo]

On the oil change topic, what is the group think regarding how long to let the oil drain after removing the filter? Last oil change, I came in from a flight and opened up everything and drained the oil while it was still hot. I punched an oil in the filter and used an air nozzle to clear out as much oil out of the filter as possible. I removed the filter and then finagled a cup under the filter adapter and left it overnight. I was surprised to return a day later and find about 8 oz of oil in the cup. I also let it drain from the suction screen hole.
 

Does anyone else let the galleys and passages drain out overnight? I know it doesn’t make any real measurable difference in the dilution ratio of new oil to old, but i was still surprised to get that much more out. 

 

[Hank]

I generally let my O-360 drain long enough to drink a cup of coffee, or do some hangar flying with a neighbor. Then I change the filter, add 7 quarts and take a victory lap around the pattern. 

[ArtVandelay]

I pull the nose wheel out of the hangar to lower the nose a bit to get the oil to flow forward, out of the filter and towards the drain. This also keeps the hanger floor clean.
You could also deflate the nose tire.
Remember the Mooneys squat with it’s tail down.

Additionally I add 1/2 quart of MMO on flight before the oil change, thins the oil a little and cleans the engine.

[cliffy]

1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:

I pull the nose wheel out of the hangar to lower the nose a bit to get the oil to flow forward, out of the filter and towards the drain. This also keeps the hanger floor clean.
You could also deflate the nose tire.
Remember the Mooneys squat with it’s tail down.

Additionally I add 1/2 quart of MMO on flight before the oil change, thins the oil a little and cleans the engine.

POPORN in hand watching this blow up  :-) :-)

[EricJ]

5 hours ago, RoundTwo said:

Does anyone else let the galleys and passages drain out overnight? I know it doesn’t make any real measurable difference in the dilution ratio of new oil to old, but i was still surprised to get that much more out. 

I do my oil changes cold and let it drain over night.   The next day there's nearly no oil in the filter, so it is easy to keep it clean, and the engine is as empty as it's going to get.

[kortopates]

…. I punched an oil in the filter and used an air nozzle to clear out as much oil out of the filter as possible. ….
 

Watch out with this. When i attended Continentals school for A&P’s years ago they warned us all not to do this and told a story of an engine that failed in flight because some filter debris got inside the engine and then blocked an oil galley bringing down the plane. They warn that if you really want to puncture an oil filter to drain it, to only do it with the approved Tempest tool and then let it just drain by gravity and never use something like a screwdriver.

An engine will keep draining out oil for week or so and you’ll never get all the oil out of the prop and oil cooler.


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[kortopates]

POPORN in hand watching this blow up  :-) :-)

Some owners go to great lengths to clean their engines before putting in fresh oil. Remember Jose aka originally Piloto? He filled the sump with avgas after draining the oil and swore by it.
A half quart of MMO 30 min before oil change sounds pretty conservative in comparison


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[PT20J]

42 minutes ago, kortopates said:

Some owners go to great lengths to clean their engines before putting in fresh oil. Remember Jose aka originally Piloto? He filled the sump with avgas after draining the oil and swore by it.
A half quart of MMO 30 min before oil change sounds pretty conservative in comparison


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I thought he used WD-40. 

[kortopates]

I thought he used WD-40. 

He was a big proponent of WD-40 as well.


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[RoundTwo]

13 hours ago, kortopates said:

 

Watch out with this. When i attended Continentals school for A&P’s years ago they warned us all not to do this and told a story of an engine that failed in flight because some filter debris got inside the engine and then blocked an oil galley bringing down the plane. They warn that if you really want to puncture an oil filter to drain it, to only do it with the approved Tempest tool and then let it just drain by gravity and never use something like a screwdriver.

An engine will keep draining out oil for week or so and you’ll never get all the oil out of the prop and oil cooler.


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Good points. I neglected to think about the quantities contained in external volumes. Regarding the filter purge, I like to use a nice sharp awl with a wider taper to make a clean dimple. I use a rubber tipped air gun set for less than standard oil pressure as I’ve heard bad things about hitting it with full on shop pressure.

[Utah20Gflyer]

I think people are too obsessive about getting all the old oil out.   It’s impossible to get it all and that extra 1/4 quart you remove is not going to make any real difference in the overall quality of the oil in the engine after the oil change.   If you are really worried then shorten your oil change interval but I doubt that will really do much for you either.   Personally I run my oil for 50 hours and then do a quick oil change with no gimmicks.  My oil analysis has always come back good so until I get objective information my oil is unsatisfactory I will continue this practice.  
 

The number one thing you can do to make your engine last is fly it a lot.  Corrosion is what kills engines which comes from inactivity not that last bit of old oil you didn’t get out.  

[A64Pilot]

MMO is not approved.

Having said that story is Delta Airlines back in the day bought it in 55 gl drums.

Interesting to read who first sold it and what it was for.

https://marvelmysteryoil.com/pages/our-story#:~:text=Founded in 1923 by Burt,produced after World War I.

I’ve seen R-1340’s that will stick an exhaust valve if it’s not in the oil.

Having said that I’ve read from what I consider reputable sources that it’s nothing but mineral spirits with red dye and something to make it smell different.

I’ve also heard with no proof that back in the day before turtle wax it had Lard in it.

It just might be the original snake oil, but I swear I’ve seen it stop valve sticking in a 1340.

I know auto transmission fluid is 20W oil I think with a lot of detergent in it, back in the day of old Diesels s quart or two in the fuel woukd stop the idle rattle caused by varnished injector tips, and many swore 1 Qt in every oil change would over time clean out Quaker State and Penzoil wax like build up.

Maybe that came from MMO, or maybe XMSN oil is the source of MMO lore?

[A64Pilot]

Based on flying 100 hours per year and that filters are so expensive now I just went to a 25 hour OCI, but will only change filters every 50 hours.

As was said your not getting the oil out of the prop dome and cooler and there may be a quart between those two it’s probably overboard getting the last drop.

I  was surprised at how clean my oil was after the first 1.5 hour flight not changing the filter.

I’ve never paid attention but now I’m wondering if there is an anti -drain back valve in the filter, next time I’ll look, it should be visible under the outer ring of holes, should be a rubber flap.

[PT20J]

MMO:
Stoddard Solvent (carrier)

TCP (lead scavenger)

Dichlorobenzene (dissolves carbon)

Also, red dye and peppermint fragrance.

 

 

[SnowJustice]

Thank you all for the very thoughtful and considered responses to my questions.
After a lot of research I pulled the cowls to take a look around and had a hard time finding the quick drain.
The Service Manual says "The engine sump can easily be drained by means of the quick drain that is installed on each engine as standard equipment."
However I did not find anything I could ID as a quick drain.
The closest I've found is indicated in the attached picture, which looks like a decidedly non-quick-drain.
a) Do I have this right?

b) If not, where can I look? If so, can I use an automotive crush washer when re-installing? Apparently there are aviation grade parts for this.

Thanks in advance!

Edited January 6 by SnowJustice

[Hank]

There's a picture of the quick drain on my 1970 C in this file. Just put the cowling back on before you test fly!

 

[SnowJustice]

Thanks @Hank much appreciated. The picture in the Service Manual is brutal.

[LANCECASPER]

2 hours ago, SnowJustice said:

Thank you all for the very thoughtful and considered responses to my questions.
After a lot of research I pulled the cowls to take a look around and had a hard time finding the quick drain.
The Service Manual says "The engine sump can easily be drained by means of the quick drain that is installed on each engine as standard equipment."
However I did not find anything I could ID as a quick drain.
The closest I've found is indicated in the attached picture, which looks like a decidedly non-quick-drain.
a) Do I have this right?

b) If not, where can I look? If so, can I use an automotive crush washer when re-installing? Apparently there are aviation grade parts for this.

Thanks in advance!

What's the revision date of your Service Manual?    What's the date of the manufacture or last major overhaul?

The point is, now it's standard equipment, it probably wasn't back then. It would be something I would install at the next oil change. By the oil all over that scat tube, it's a mess without a quick drain and a hose.