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About 201Steve

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    KSSI - St Simons Island, GA
  • Interests
    1977 M20J
  • Model
    1977 M20J

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  1. Photo of the product. Do I need to buy an applicator gun/bottle or just use a spatula?
  2. A quick search looks like it only comes in black. Have you heard of the same in white? Also, would you say one tube is enough for all windows and windshield?
  3. I did a wet wash on Saturday and just for fun, I shoved my finger into the sidewall at the floor/ base of the rear seat to check for moisture and there was some. The sealant on the outside of my windows is looking like it's seen better days. What are you guys using for sealant on the outside of windows/windshield?
  4. Eric, I’m not asking them to diagnose, I’m not asking them to sign an inspection, I’m asking them to perform a procedure that’s been standard practice per the manufacturer since the 1980’s. Purchase Order: Clean my valve guide. Mechanics Entry: cleaned valve guide per SI1425a. So, liability wise, I’d say your well within a protection envelope. Practicality wise, there is such an extreme disparity between a cylinder overhaul and a valve guide cleaning. You can’t rightfully say that a $200 job isn’t worth trying before immediately attacking it with a $2,500 cylinder overhaul. For something you can physically verify the success of upon completion, it is a crime not to know about that option or perform that option. Again, this is not some shade tree procedure. It’s what the manufacturer says should be done. In black and white.
  5. Check out Lycoming SI 1425A. It’s not what most people think when talking about rope trick, and apparently with the correct valve spring tool, you don’t actually need to use the rope here. But it’s been a common procedure item published by Lycoming originally in the early 80’s but of course 78% of mechanics are clueless about it.
  6. I am about to loose my mind over the insanity of the maintenance community. I caught the symptoms of a sticky exhaust valve on my IO-360 very early. Over the last year, I was seeing slightly elevating levels of Nickel in my oil analysis, with the last reading showing 10ppm. Fast forward to last week, I was having slight morning sickness over the duration of 3 starts. Roughness lasted approx 30 seconds. Shot a boroscope into all cylinders. Arrived at #4 and found it stuck open a little bit. PER LYCOMING SERVICE INSTRUCTION 1425A, they outline exactly the STANDARD procedure to first address this issue. Via the "rope trick" drop the valve into the cylinder, clean the valve guide with a hand reamer, and reinstall. A 45 minute job at best for someone who's experienced with it. Please... someone explain to me why the 4 mechanics I've talked to have never done this before? Want to immediately pull the cylinder? WHY! I explain to them that Lycoming addresses this in detail, as to what to do FIRST. Exhaust valve sticking may be the most common valve train item... yet they don't even know how to do the simplest of procedures. Mike Busch theory aside, it is a LYCOMING recommendation. It's not some back woods remedy. All of that said, I can't deal. I'm ordering the stuff to do it myself with supervision. I'm pretty sure the reamer needed is 0.4995-0.5005 (.5000) for my engine. Looking at https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/valve-guide-cleaning-reamers-for-lycoming-engines/ Can anyone confirm this is correct size before I order? Also, any other suggestion on what tools to have handy in the process would be great! 77J Lycoming IO-360 A1B6D
  7. io360 here. I whole heartedly believe the oil filter could easily go 100 hours. It holds 1/4 quart maybe when cold. I would put good money on zero difference in an otherwise identical lifetime comparison with one changing filter every swap, and one changing filter every 2 or 3 swaps. With a quick drain valve, it wouldn’t even need to be de-cowled and you could change just the oil in 5 minutes of labor. That said.... it’s my airplane and I enjoy treating it like a baby, so I change it with the oil.
  8. This is exactly what I describe in the post. Lol. Problem was stud length. Mc Carr only sells a half inch which was way too long. But I sheared to fit
  9. I did consider! I think I read your post while researching. Didn’t want to venture off too far but like the idea
  10. I read a few responses in my prior research where people had done away with the rubber, esp when recutting a whole new panel. The legend says, newer electronic instruments “like a little vibration”
  11. the nuts were simply applied to mark the cut line. It also helps to guide/clean the threads when backing off the stud after the cut. What I discovered from the old studs, was they were compensated with a nut on the inside while installed. That has since been resolved with proper length on the new studs.
  12. I’m going to contribute something useful for once instead of asking for yours. I compiled some data on here about panel shock mounts. There were a few threads, it got me started. I flew the airplane last week and noticed a large gap in the top of the panel at the glare shield. Upon further investigation, several of the rubber mounts had failed. After reading the how-to’s, I pulled all of the old ones out. There were 3 different types and varying sized mounts. The stud lengths were different as well and had been compensated by adding a nut as a spacer. As mentioned several had completely failed and the remaining mounts still it tact being both old and overstressed from the added load had begun failing as well. The Lord J-6984-64 I believe is the correct direct replacement, but they are $17x10. Spruce sells a generic model but it is based on a J69841-1 which *i believe* is the SMALLER diameter rubber. I said that what I pulled out of mine were mix-match, the small ones were the ones to have failed. I did not want to screw around with these obviously less durable small diameter. I read some info and was referred to McMaster Carr. They have a very good chart of info that gives sizes and dimensions of each and every pice of the component from rubber portion, to stud size, length, thread, type of rubber used, and the recommended weight capacity for the whole unit. They had the large diameter rubbers for under $2 each. Part# 9213k12 The only problem I saw with these was the stud lengths were 1/2” on each side. The direct replacement has different size studs on each side. 1/4” and 3/8”. Being as cheap as they were, I took my chances and I’d see what I could do. They ended up being way too long. The acorn nut only has so much room to tighten, you’d never snug it to the panel. On the inside females, where they affix to the frame, there is also a length limiting factor before the bottom out and you have too much stud still sticking out to be flush and snug. The 3/8” side goes into the frame, and the 1/4” pops through the panel where the acorn nut snugs up to. I took my grinder out and sheared all the studs to correct sizes. I applied nuts on the studs while cutting so I could make precise and accurate cuts and held steady with a vice. 2 nuts needed on the stud to get your 1/4” and 2 nuts + 2 #6 washers on the other side to get your 3/8” length. I also cleaned up the threads with a file and a dye. This took about an hour and a half. I maybe would have just purchased the correct ones at $16 each knowing all of this but, I wasn’t abandoning ship at this point. Installation, pretty straight forward. Make sure you take the pilot seat out. I tried bypassing this step, NOT comfortable. Take it out. Also, to remove and reinstall the mount closest to the throttle quadrant, you need to somehow hold up the panel while you work. I ran a zip tie through one of the open top holes and looped 2 more and hooked it on the middle frame bar. The nut on the back of the whiskey compass kept it from sliding down. Lastly, lining up 10 holes at the same time is nearly impossible, you’ll have to stick your finger around back and guide some of the bottom studs through the holes. I can confirm the McMaster Carr product is more than adequate. Maybe better. The panel sits erect and at attention now. Total time, including the fab job, 3.5 hours plus or minus. $40 of parts and misc supplies if you have the time and tools. Pics attached of everything described.