Jump to content

Jsno

Supporter
  • Posts

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Reg #
    N9168V
  • Model
    M20F

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Jsno's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Reacting Well
  • One Year In
  • Collaborator
  • Dedicated
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

51

Reputation

  1. Fuel lube is like a thick sticky silicone. Fuel will not wash it off. I used it when I installed my drains, no problem. Do not use any other kind of anti-seize. Just a light coat on the threads and seal.
  2. When in doubt, I send in a 337. Doesn't take long to fill out.
  3. I installed a seal from Aircraft Door Seals LLC. Bought it from knots to you. Much cheaper than pneumatic. Removed old door seal and used a plastic scraper to remove as much old seal and glue as possible. Cleaned with acetone,(carefully). Then used the 3M Yellow glue to install. Lubed the seal, closed it slowly while making sure it tucked in correctly. smashed it closed and left it for a week in hot weather. Works perfect.
  4. That is a restrictor. It keeps the pressure gauge from fluctuating from pulsating action from the fuel pump.
  5. To do it right you need to open the tank and use fuel tank sealant on the inside where the tie down comes through. Better to do it right the first time than right after many times.
  6. You have the same part number as mine. I could not find one so that is why I sent it out for repair.
  7. Sounds like time for your pump to be overhauled. Also you manifold pressure gauge needs repaired. Consolidated instruments in Teterboro repaired mine. They found some corrosion in it. Or you can spend more and install an electronic engine monitor with MP.
  8. Higher Graphics could make them for you.
  9. Other factors to look at as well is the condition of the nose gear truss. Is it bent? Spar corrosion is a big factor too. Open all wing panels and inspect. Also pull the carpet and padding in the interior and look for corrosion. Open the interior at the wing roots and look for blue fuel stains as well as in the wing and gear wells. When was the tanks last sealed? Very labor intensive to strip and seal. How old are the landing gear shock discs? Do all of the avionics work? Auto pilot work? Is the brake system leaking fluid? Have you inspector swing the gear and also do a breaker check. Check flight control rigging with rigging boards. A mis-rigged Mooney flys slow. All of these add up.
  10. N679M? I bought a Mooney F that the cam was in bad condition. You could check the oil. If it is very fresh see if you can fly it for about an hour. Take a sample and pull the filter and send it in for analysis. Any steel in it move on. Depending on how it was stored will determine if the cam is bad. I am in Indy also and know that in winter with the temp and humidity changes, the cam will get moisture on it and just if not preserved or an engine dryer kept on it. Just bought a Drybot for mine.
  11. This is the kit that Lasar sells. It lists the part numbers if you want to buy them separately. I lubricate them with EZ Turn Lube. FUEL CAP SEAT KIT & DRAWING - FUEL CAP SEAL KIT $13.05 KIT CONTAINS O-RINGS AND NEW COTTER PINS FOR TWO(2) FUEL CAPS Contains: 2) MS29513-010, 2) MS29513-338, & 2) MS24665-132
  12. I would not attempt to repair. There are plenty for sale on line that are used.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.