M20j 1996 remote oil filter setup recommendations

[Chainfire]

Hello, I’m new to the M20j. The io360a3b6 has the oil filter in a really inconvenient location. 
 

can anyone recommend a stc’d remote oil filter setup?

 

thanks in advance 

[mike_elliott]

If you think the filter is in a bad location, just wait until you remove the oil suction screen during the oil change for inspection. It is a piece of cake after you have done it a couple doz times, however. Suggest brushing up on your "shop" English well before hand, you will need the whole vocabulary

 

[Guest]

3 hours ago, Chainfire said:

Hello, I’m new to the M20j. The io360a3b6 has the oil filter in a really inconvenient location. 
 

can anyone recommend a stc’d remote oil filter setup?

 

thanks in advance 

After more than 35 years as a maintainer,  I’d say save your money and accept the challenge of changing the oil filter.  It can be done without spilling.

As Mike points out, the suction screen is even more challenging.

A remote filter adapter adds weight, more potential leaks, and more hoses to replace in the future.

Clarence

[carusoam]

Welcome aboard Chain!

Clarence is the maintenance guy...

Mike is the flight instructor guy...

I’m the warm and fuzzy welcoming committee...  

Best regards,

-a-

[PT20J]

The biggest problem I have with the A3B6 (which was never a problem with the A3B6D) is getting a wrench on the filter. I use a 1" racheting box end wrench which works fine. I tried all sorts of adapters to get my torque wrench on it (none of which worked) and finally just started tightening 3/4 turn like @jetdriven suggested - just like a car.

@M20Doc, How do you torque the darned thing?

BTW, it's not that hard to get the suction screen out. It's safety wiring it that will drive you nuts. But experience and practice is everything. My IA did it in less than 5 minutes with no blood and only a little swearing  when we did the annual. Same when he safety wired the prop. Point is: after a a couple of oil changes you won't think it's so hard anymore. Just hope you never have to remove the prop governor!

Skip 

[Guest]

52 minutes ago, PT20J said:

The biggest problem I have with the A3B6 (which was never a problem with the A3B6D) is getting a wrench on the filter. I use a 1" racheting box end wrench which works fine. I tried all sorts of adapters to get my torque wrench on it (none of which worked) and finally just started tightening 3/4 turn like @jetdriven suggested - just like a car.

@M20Doc, How do you torque the darned thing?

BTW, it's not that hard to get the suction screen out. It's safety wiring it that will drive you nuts. But experience and practice is everything. My IA did it in less than 5 minutes with no blood and only a little swearing  when we did the annual. Same when he safety wired the prop. Point is: after a a couple of oil changes you won't think it's so hard anymore. Just hope you never have to remove the prop governor!

Skip 

I use the Tempest oil torque wrench almost exclusively.  On a few Continental engines I used the Tempest torque adapter and a 3/8” torque wrench.

In most cases I also use the long 104, 109 or 111 oil filter.

Clarence

Edited December 27, 2020 by M20Doc

[M20F-1968]

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive torque wrench that has a hinged head with a 1" standard socket.  Fits on the oil filter without a problem.

John Breda

[PT20J]

4 hours ago, M20F-1968 said:

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive torque wrench that has a hinged head with a 1" standard socket.  Fits on the oil filter without a problem.

John Breda

The mechanic at the museum has one of those torque wrenches. They are very cool! I’ve never been able to find a 3/8” drive 1” socket — seems the largest I ever find is 7/8. Is that a Snap-on part also?

Skip

[amillet]

1” box end works well. 

[M20F-1968]

5 hours ago, PT20J said:

The mechanic at the museum has one of those torque wrenches. They are very cool! I’ve never been able to find a 3/8” drive 1” socket — seems the largest I ever find is 7/8. Is that a Snap-on part also?

Skip

I think it is a Craftsman

[Fry]

So far I have skipped checking the oil suction screen when doing the oil changes, primarily because of the many warnings how hard it is. 

Is there a good instructional video somewhere on how to do this on the IO-360-A3B6D? Preferably naming all tools that one needs? (I live in a country with metric units)

[larrynimmo]

5/8” ratcheting box end wrench from what I recall...just like skip said, it’s easy to remove, the trick is to install the safety wire.

once you remove the screen make sure you stick a magnet in the hole to pickup and ferrous chunks...luckily I have never caught such a “fish”

[Guest]

If you can fly an instrument approach to minimums, you can clean and safety wire the suction screen.

You need a 5/8” wrench(16mm might work) a new MS35769-21 copper crush gasket and a length of 0.032” safety wire.

Clarence

[ArtVandelay]

If you can fly an instrument approach to minimums, you can clean and safety wire the suction screen.
You need a 5/8” wrench(16mm might work) a new MS35769-21 copper crush gasket and a length of 0.032” safety wire.
Clarence

The question is, assuming oil filter is removed, on a 2 mag engine, which direction gives the best access: either side, underneath, or from the top?

[LANCECASPER]

On 12/26/2020 at 1:57 PM, Chainfire said:

Hello, I’m new to the M20j. The io360a3b6 has the oil filter in a really inconvenient location. 
 

can anyone recommend a stc’d remote oil filter setup?

 

thanks in advance 

If you get to the point on your panel where you don't need the vacuum pump, it sure made oil changes easier on a Lycoming TIO540AF1B. Not sure about yours. Mine had two on the back of the engine (one clutch driven) and for the past two years they've been gone.

[KB4]

8 hours ago, Fry said:

So far I have skipped checking the oil suction screen when doing the oil changes, primarily because of the many warnings how hard it is. 

Is there a good instructional video somewhere on how to do this on the IO-360-A3B6D? Preferably naming all tools that one needs? (I live in a country with metric units)

There is a video here, but my search skills are not great.  For tools, get a long set of hemostats to pull the safety wire through, a long pair of snips to cut the old safety wire, smallest safety wire pliers you can find to fit in there and redo safety wire, and 5/8 angled head wrench (15$ Amazon).  After you get screen loose you can stand on a stool and reach down from the top  and unscrew the rest by hand.

https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-8-Inch-Angle-Wrench-WAE83016/dp/B07JHWHPY9/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3I7HD280PWU7N&dchild=1&keywords=angled+5%2F8+wrench&qid=1609173692&sprefix=5%2F8+angled+%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-7

[PT20J]

4 hours ago, M20Doc said:

If you can fly an instrument approach to minimums, you can clean and safety wire the suction screen.

You need a 5/8” wrench(16mm might work) a new MS35769-21 copper crush gasket and a length of 0.032” safety wire.

Clarence

Also, note that the torque spec is a 135 degree rotation. I believe it’s standard practice to put the split side of a copper crush gasket toward the engine (non-rotating face) but I don’t know if it really matters. Lycoming calls for food grade anti-seize (I presume that’s because it has no metallic content).

Clarence, do you use the anti-sieze? We didn’t have any and figured the threads are soaked in oil anyway, but I’m wondering if I should get some for next time.

Here’s the Lycoming SB excerpt.

[GeeBee]

On 12/26/2020 at 2:57 PM, Chainfire said:

Hello, I’m new to the M20j. The io360a3b6 has the oil filter in a really inconvenient location. 
 

can anyone recommend a stc’d remote oil filter setup?

 

thanks in advance 

If you really want a remote filter......for me it is Airwolf or it is nothing. Done several airplanes and I can tell you don't waste your money on anything else.

 

 

[Guest]

9 hours ago, ArtVandelay said:

The question is, assuming oil filter is removed, on a 2 mag engine, which direction gives the best access: either side, underneath, or from the top?

One hand from above to assist the other hand from the right side.

Clarence

[PT20J]

I noticed something interesting about Lycoming SB 480 (excerpt posted above). It has the standard warning that all the Lycoming SBs contain:

Incomplete review of all the information in this document can cause errors. Read the entire Service Bulletin to make sure you have a compete understanding of the requirements.

Good advice since the oil change procedure includes draining and refilling the sump, and that procedure comes before the procedure to remove, inspect, and replace the suction screen which is located at the bottom of the sump. 

Skip

[EricJ]

15 hours ago, Fry said:

So far I have skipped checking the oil suction screen when doing the oil changes, primarily because of the many warnings how hard it is. 

Is there a good instructional video somewhere on how to do this on the IO-360-A3B6D? Preferably naming all tools that one needs? (I live in a country with metric units)

I have an IO-360-A3B6D in an M20J and I don't think it's any different than the others.   The only additional trick I had to do was to take the cap (plug) off the end of the filter tube in order to free up enough space to actually get the tube out.   Other than that it seems to be the same as the rest of the general advice.   Some tool that allows longer reach for the safety wire is good, like hemostats or the long twisting tool from ATS or aircraftspruce.  Here's the thread that has the very helpful instructional vids from the AGL folks embedded (I think page two or three or somewhere, but the whole thread is good on this topic):
 

 

[EricJ]

On 12/26/2020 at 6:11 PM, PT20J said:

BTW, it's not that hard to get the suction screen out. It's safety wiring it that will drive you nuts. But experience and practice is everything. My IA did it in less than 5 minutes with no blood and only a little swearing  when we did the annual. Same when he safety wired the prop. Point is: after a a couple of oil changes you won't think it's so hard anymore. Just hope you never have to remove the prop governor!

Skip 

Not sure it'd work on the suction screen or the prop governor, but I used one of the new, fancy safety-ing methods to put a friend's prop back on his experimental airplane.   I'd heard about it in A&P school and told my friend about it and he went out and bought the tool and a bunch of the cables.   I had hand-safetied his prop but he bought the tool and the cables and then had me re-safety it with this stuff and it was gloriously easy.   Apparently the airlines and some manufacturers have been using this stuff for many years.

Instead of running safety wire, a pre-made cable with a pre-attached ferrule is threaded through appropriately, and then a terminating ferrule is slid in place.   A handy ratcheting tool pulls the cable tight, crimps the ferrule, and cuts the cable flush in one squeeze of the tool, which is really easy.   It made very short work of safetying the prop and was really easy to learn how to use.

Hand safetied with safety wire and then replaced with the new hotness:

Edited December 29, 2020 by EricJ

[PT20J]

44 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Not sure it'd work on the suction screen or the prop governor, but I used one of the new, fancy safety-ing methods to put a friend's prop back on his experimental airplane.   I'd heard about it in A&P school and told my friend about it and he went out and bought the tool and a bunch of the cables.   I had hand-safetied his prop but he bought the tool and the cables and then had me re-safety it with this stuff and it was gloriously easy.   Apparently the a

The suction screen was safety cabled at the factory on my A3B6 rebuilt. It looked so pretty, we hated to cut it. Kind of pricey if you’re not doing a lot, but you’d be the envy of every IA that looks at your airplane. 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nosetool.php?clickkey=27717

Skip

 

[EricJ]

2 minutes ago, PT20J said:

The suction screen was safety cabled at the factory on my A3B6 rebuilt. It looked so pretty, we hated to cut it. Kind of pricey if you’re not doing a lot, but you’d be the envy of every IA that looks at your airplane. 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/nosetool.php?clickkey=27717

Skip

 

Yeah, that stuff.   I don't know if you could get the tool back there for the screen or the governor with the engine installed.   Would be cake with it out, though. 

Edit:  And, yes, this is not a CB solution compared to safety wire. 

Edited December 29, 2020 by EricJ

[PT20J]

6 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Yeah, that stuff.   I don't know if you could get the tool back there for the screen or the governor with the engine installed.   Would be cake with it out, though. 

Edit:  And, yes, this is not a CB solution compared to safety wire. 

See, that would be my fear: I’d pay $500 for the thing and then every really difficult job would be one where it wouldn’t work.